Do I need to take the bonding strap off of my dryer if I have a three prong receptacle and plug? I have two hots and a ground hooked up for the neutral. The neutral is cut off.

Connect the three-prong wire you have the way the same wires (Line 1, Neutral, and Line 2) of the four-prong wires are connected to the terminal block then connect the integrated grounding strap to the Neutral (center) terminal.

Under the new Codes...all dryers (and stoves/ovens) must now be 4 wire....having a seperate neutral and ground wire in NEW construction. In decades past, the neutral was allowed to serve as both - the neutral and ground - typically by means of a solid metal strap or wire strap that bonded that connection to the metal frame of the dryer. This sounds as if it is the case in your existing dryer...which was typical.

But...the old arrangement wasn't always reliable...and a seperate dedicated ground provides a greater safety path in the event of a fault inside the dryer (lowering the chance the user may get a shock when touching the frame of the dryer).

To modify your existing 3 prong dryer over to 4....you'll need to remove the 3 wire - disconnect the ground strap (or wire) that bonds the neutral to the frame of the dryer...and install your 4 wire so that you'll have (from left to right) one hot, one neutral, one hot connection...and connect the ground directly to he frame of the dryer (there is usually a green screw near the dryer connection block for this ground)

For more on this - with an illustration, see:

http://www.american-appliance.com/service_pages/electric_dryer_cord.htm

When done properly, you can test for correct wiring and connection with an ohm-meter (continuity check)...by checking for continuity from the ground prong on the plug to the frame of the dryer...you should see continuity. Then check for continuity from the neutral prong on the plug to the frame...you should NOT see continuity....nor should you see any continuity between the neutral connection at the wiring block to the metal frame.

The whole purpose of the Code change to the 4 wire is to seperate the two.

Hope this helps,....if you need more details, please follow-up.

Get an qualified person to do it. If you do not have any idea how to do it, you are better off having someone else do it. If you have a 3 prong receptacle, you need a 3 prong pigtail. And if you have a 4 prong receptacle, the dryer needs a 4 prong pigtail. The green is ground, white is neutral, red and black are both hot (L1 and L2). If you put a 4 prong pigtail on, remove the ground strap between the center post and the case. The green ground goes on the case, white neutral in the center, black or red to the left, what's left on the right. You can interchange the red and black but NOT the white or green. If you use a 3 prong pigtail, the center is the neutral (same as white on the 4 prong) and you will need the ground strap between the neutral (center) and the case. The wires do NOT cross over on a 3 prong pigtail.

disconnect the green or brass ground strap from the terminal block to the body then wire the new plugs three colors the same as the old then connect the green from the plug strait to the body. on a 3 wire the dryer is grounded through the neutral, on a 4 wire the ground goes to the body.

Dryers are 220 Volts AC and the outer connections inside the dryer are "hot" or live legs (black or black and red wires) of the circuit, while the center one is typically the neutral (white) wire.

The difference between a 3 prong plug and receptacle and a 4 pronged one is simply that the 4 prong plug and receptacle has a dedicated ground integrated into it, whereas the 3 prong plug is what's commonly referred to as an ungrounded circuit. There is no dedicated ground in a 3 prong plug and receptacle that makes a separate, grounded connection from the dryer to the receptacle to the electrical panel of the house.

Also, please look at either the back of the dryer for a basic wiring diagram, or look inside the access panel where the dryer cord is connected. There should be indications as to what each terminal is for, as I stated, typically the outer connections are the "hot" while the center one is typically the neutral. If you notice a strap running from one of the dryer's connection terminals to the cabinet/frame of the dryer, that is the neutral. The others are the hot terminals, which are the outside ones.

Look for a green grounding screw inside the dryer's electrical connection section. That is where the green wire on the cordset would be connected/terminated.

If you wish, you can get a free Installation Guide for your dryer at the following link to download and/or print out at:

http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/lis_pdf/INSTL/L0520950.pdf

It will show you the connections for both a 3 and 4 wire cordset.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

best bet would to be to buy a plug that matches your receptical.....this is somthing you do not want to monkey with as if not wired right could turn your dryer into a fire hazzard. white to white green to green black to black and the other wire goes to earth ground for like trailer houses and modular homes.

This advice is on how to correctly install an ELECTRIC DRYER or ELECTRIC RANGE 220-240VAC power cord (US Standards).

3-Prong or 4-Prong – The Difference:

3-prong color code:

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1
RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2
WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – Usually grounded to the equipment frame via a jumper wire or metal strap.

4-prong color code:

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1
RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2
WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – DO NOT ground to equipment frame.
GREEN (GROUND) – Attach to equipment frame.

Which One to Use: According to the National Electrical Code (NEC), Article 250, installations after the year 2000, require the use of a 4-prong plug which incorporates a separate ground and neutral wire. If you currently have a home that uses the 3-prong receptacle and cord, you can continue to use it. You will have to upgrade to a 4-prong configuration, however, if you plan on relocating your current receptacle, or if the internal wires of the receptacle become damaged in any way and require repair.

Converting from 3-prong to 4-prong: Make sure you UNPLUG the appliance prior to any repairs. CAUTION: Voltages dangerous to life are still present even with the appliance turned off and still plugged in. Notably in the area of the terminal block where the power cords are installed. You will need to remove the old cord by following these steps:

1. With the appliance UNPLUGGED, remove the access panel on the back of the unit where the power cord enters.
2. With the cover removed, you will see a terminal block where the power cord is attached. The terminal wires will be colored with the WHITE wire in the middle, and the BLACK and RED wires on either end. NOTE: There should be a green jumper wire or metal bonding strap attached to the NEUTRAL (white) terminal wire.
3. Remove the terminal lugs holding the old power cord wires in place. CAUTION: Use care not to drop any nuts or screws inside the appliance.
4. Remove the bonding strap or ground wire from the Neutral terminal lug. NOTE: If disconnecting a ground wire, make sure you re-attach it to the appliance frame.
5. Loosen the screws on the strain relief connector that holds the power cord in place and remove old power cord. NOTE: If your appliance does not have a strain relief that clamps down and hold the power cord in place, it is highly recommended that you install one. This prevents chaffing of the power cord against the appliance casing, and prevents the terminal wires from being pulled and broken loose. This could pose a potential shock hazard or cause damage to the appliance.
6. Install new power cord by threading it through the strain relief connector and tighten down the screws.
7. Connect the new power cord to the corresponding colors at the terminal block (Black goes to Black, Red goes to Red, White goes to White). The difference is going to be a Green (ground) wire that will connect to the appliance frame. There’s usually a green grounding screw for this. NOTE: If you disconnected a green grounding strap in Step 4., you can connect these two wires at the same point.
8. Re-install access cover. Turn off the service breaker to the appliance PRIOR to plugging it back in. With the breaker in the off position, plug the appliance in, and THEN turn the breaker on. In the event, something was wired incorrectly, it is far better to have your hands away from the receptacle and controlled from a distance. Safety first.

These steps will work for nearly all appliances that require a 220-240VAC power cord conversion. The power cords are usually rated at 250VAC, 30 amps, and are carried by any hardware store or appliance parts retailer.

ADDITIONAL NOTES:

1. If you desire to convert an appliance from a 4-prong to a 3-prong, make sure you reconnect the bonding strap and/or ground wire to the Neutral (white) wire at the terminal block.
2. On some newer appliances, it is REQUIRED that you use a 4-prong plug in order for the timer or clock circuits to function properly due to the way they are configured. Refer to your owner’s manual for the correct recommendation. Even if you currently have a 3-prong receptacle, you still may be required to upgrade to a 4-prong if you encounter this situation.
3. In many circumstances, new appliances are NOT sold with the power cord due to the various power configurations in homes. Always refer to the contents description on the shipping container the appliance comes with to see what additional items or tools may be required for installation.

YOUR FOUR WIRE CORD IS AS FOLLOWS RED,BLACK WHITE AND GREEN ON YOUR DRYER YOU HAVE FROM LEFT TO RIGHT 123 CONNECTIONS THE TWO OUTERMOST(1 AND 3) ARE HOT LEADS SO HOOK RED TO 1 AND BLACK TO 3 NOW HOOK WHITE TO 2 AND THE GREEN CAN BE ON THE TERMINAL COVER SCREW OR NOT AT ALL BUT BE SURE IT CANNOT COME INTO CONTACT WITH RED OR BLACK

Hello Linda,
maybe I can help you get it wired up correctly. First off..the main difference betrween a 3 and 4 prong cord set is the addition of a Neutral Line. On the back of your dryer, you should see a pass thru ( where the origanal cord went into the dryer).. There should be some kind of strain relief ...cable clamp that will need to be loosened to remove the original 3 prong cord set. Once you loosen the cable clamp, open the access cover to the power terminal block on your dryer. Depending on the model, you should see a terminal block that has at least 3 wire terminals on it.. Red, White and Black. match up the end ( assumed the new cordset was preterminated with ring lugs) onto the corresponding terminals of the block ( Red to Red, White to White and Black to Black). Once that has been done, you shoud have one wire left over and it is probably Green..That wire is your safety ground and should be bonded to the frame of the dryer or if the dryer you have has a ground terminal.. hook it there. That should do it.. If i have confused you or you are unclear on any of this.. please specify the brand and model number of your dryer and I may be able to provide detailed pictures of this.. Otherwise.. hope this helps get you goin...
Regards