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The electrical cord broke off at the base of the iron. How do I replace the cord? The break is right at the point of the pivot feature on the powerglide 2 iron.

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  • 154 Answers

You need to take the base off the iron

Posted on Aug 02, 2009

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1 Answer

When I plugged iron in sparks came out at wall and iron where the cord connects.


Hi,

If you've had this iron for a while it sounds like the cord may be frayed.
switch it off at the wall and unplug it, check the cord for wear, if the insulation is frayed, torn or broken and there are black burn marks on the cord where you saw sparks then the cord needs to be replaced.
DONT plug the iron back in until the cord is replaced.

Otherwise If there are no breaks or black burn marks on the cord, then your power point may be faulty and needs to be replaced!

I hope this was helpful
MobileJB

Jul 13, 2011 | Oreck Cordless Speed JP8100CA Iron

Tip

Electric Iron not Heating Up or not Working Right


If you go to use your Electric Iron and it does not work you may be wondering what could have gone wrong. Actually there are only a few things that can go wrong with this handy little appliance.

The first thing to check is to make sure that you actually have electric power getting to the steam iron. Many times the problem is simply caused by a tripped circuit breaker, a faulty outlet, a worn or broken plug on the end of the cord, or in some cases, a fuse that is in the plug. Another common problem is for the cord of the clothing iron to break at the point where it enters the handle of the iron. By checking that you have power actually getting to the internal parts of the electric iron, you eliminate one set of common problems.

Next you need to check that the power is getting to the heating element. For the power to get to the heating elements of the iron it needs to go through the power switch and the thermostat. On some irons the power switch will be included in the iron thermostat and on others the on/off switch will be a separate switch. In either case you will need to make sure that there is continuity, or the ability for the power to flow through the switch and thermostat to get to the heating part of the iron. The thermostat is just an on/off switch that works on the temperature of the base of the iron. So whenever the iron is cold the thermostat should be closed, allowing the power to flow through it.

If the power can get to the heating element of the iron, then it should get hot. If it is not, then the heating part has failed. Sometimes, when this happens it will short out and cause the fuse to blow or the circuit breaker to trip. Many times though, the element will just simply burn out or break so that the circuit is open and the electricity cannot flow through to make the element produce heat.

If your iron is getting too hot or not hot enough then the problem will almost always be in the thermostat. Sometimes it may be a simple thermostat calibration problem, but it also can be that the thermostat simply will not work properly anymore.

This should give you a basic troubleshooting guide for home electric irons and steam irons. As you can see, there are not many parts that can fail and troubleshooting the few parts that can fail, is relatively simple with a basic electric meter.

on Jul 14, 2010 | Irons

1 Answer

I have a 4045 model iron, extremely happy with it. Recently, when I plug in the iron the light goes on but it does not heat up at all. Any way to fix it or is it busted. Suggestions would be appreciated.



Hi,

Heatman101 posted this on the site......

"If you go to use your Electric Iron and it does not work you may be wondering what could have gone wrong. Actually there are only a few things that can go wrong with this handy little appliance.

The first thing to check is to make sure that you actually have electric power getting to the steam iron. Many times the problem is simply caused by a tripped circuit breaker, a faulty outlet, a worn or broken plug on the end of the cord, or in some cases, a fuse that is in the plug. Another common problem is for the cord of the clothing iron to break at the point where it enters the handle of the iron. By checking that you have power actually getting to the internal parts of the electric iron, you eliminate one set of common problems.

Next you need to check that the power is getting to the heating element. For the power to get to the heating elements of the iron it needs to go through the power switch and the thermostat. On some irons the power switch will be included in the iron thermostat and on others the on/off switch will be a separate switch. In either case you will need to make sure that there is continuity, or the ability for the power to flow through the switch and thermostat to get to the heating part of the iron. The thermostat is just an on/off switch that works on the temperature of the base of the iron. So whenever the iron is cold the thermostat should be closed, allowing the power to flow through it.

If the power can get to the heating element of the iron, then it should get hot. If it is not, then the heating part has failed. Sometimes, when this happens it will short out and cause the fuse to blow or the circuit breaker to trip. Many times though, the element will just simply burn out or break so that the circuit is open and the electricity cannot flow through to make the element produce heat.

If your iron is getting too hot or not hot enough then the problem will almost always be in the thermostat. Sometimes it may be a simple thermostat calibration problem, but it also can be that the thermostat simply will not work properly anymore.

This should give you a basic troubleshooting guide for home electric irons and steam irons. As you can see, there are not many parts that can fail and troubleshooting the few parts that can fail, is relatively simple with a basic electric meter."

Sounds like either power isn't getting to the heating element, or the element is bad.

Good Luck

--HomeGrown

Dec 29, 2010 | Sunbeam Euro Press 4045 Iron

1 Answer

I am told the problem is with cord and they point at the and they point at the base of a beautiful iron.


Usually the cord at the base breaks off, because of tension from too much moving and pulling!

If thats problem u could cut the appropriate length and screw again the end of the cord!

Dec 03, 2010 | Rowenta Powerglide DE011 Iron with Auto...

1 Answer

I replaced the badly worn cord on a Phillips steam iron and everytime I switch it on it throws the circuit breaker. I am assured that the iron was working OK before I replaced the cord, but because it is a...


Hi,
There is a break in the insulation somewhere and tge wires are getting crossed or the active wire insulation is broken and it is shorting to the eaarth ground.

Here is a tip that will help you to troubleshoot your iron and figure out what is wrong with it.

Electric Iron not Heating Up or not Working Right
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5300202-electric_iron_not_heating_up_or_not

heatman101

Jan 23, 2010 | Micro Pro 7599 Iron

2 Answers

Broken electrical cord


if the wires aren't bare, wrap them in electrical tape. PLEASE RATE MY ANSWER.

Mar 07, 2009 | Euro-Pro Shark GI475 Iron

1 Answer

Iron Shuts off Automatically when using iron.


Hi,
The cord is broken...

Here is a tip that will help you to troubleshoot your iron and figure out what is wrong with it.

Electric Iron not Heating Up or not Working Right
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5300202-electric_iron_not_heating_up_or_not

heatman101

Apr 03, 2008 | Conair DPP4000 Iron

1 Answer

Sunbeam 4214 Clothes Iron with Retractable Cord won't heat.


first, i'll apologize for not posting pictures with this, but i didn't have a camera handy when i "fixed" it. i'll do my best to explain the sitch.

i also have a sunbeam 4124 whose retractor was jammed...the cord would not release more than two feet or so, nor would it retract. i was able to disassemble it, but broke some internal retaining clips meant to hold the retractor housing to the iron. WARNING!! do not attempt this if you do not want to void your warranty. i can only assume that the manufacturer did not want you to disassemble the cord return housing and as such, hid the retaining clips where it would be impossible to disengage them. i got lucky and only broke one set of the retaining clips....if you carry on, you stand a chance of breaking both sets, which will not allow you to reattach the retractor housing to your iron securely. best thing to do is call sunbeam and have them send you a new iron, but if you're bent on fixing it yourself, here's how i did it (you'll need one medium philips head screwdriver):

1) remove the rubber feet from the bottom of the iron. this will expose two screw holes (the third foot under the retractor button has no screw; this is the side where the reaining clips are buried).
2) remove the two screws
3) WARNING! this is where you have a good chance of breaking your iron. pull the base of the iron really hard, rocking it from side to side. there are two sets of retaining clips recessed in the housing of the iron. the button will come with the base of the iron, the entire cord retraction assembly is self-contained. you can carefully use a screwdriver to pry the two halves apart. also, be careful not to pull too hard as the electrical connections between the iron and the retractor assembly has only about 2 inches of slack, though the connections are just wire-nut'd together and could be reassembled in a pinch.
4) after the retractor housing is separated from the iron, remove the housing cap by unscrewing the four screws.
5) carefully separate the two halves of the housing; the spring may be loose inside and could snap out at you.

here's where my iron was broken....the coil spring is contained by a plastic tray that had snapped, probably due to somebody pulling the cord out too hard. a section of the tray had jammed itself into the inside of the housing, immobilizing the winding mechanism. my only recourse was to completely remove the spring and permanently extend the cord all the way (not one of the features i bought the iron for anyway, so what the heck). PLEASE be careful unwinding the spring if you have to do it....wouldn't want anybody poking out an eye inadvertantly.

6) reassemble the retractor housing by screwing the cap back on with the four screws
7) if you're lucky enough to keep one set of retainer clips, snap the base of the iron back on and reattach the two screws located under the feet.
8) rubber pads back in and voila!

hope this helps!

Mar 17, 2008 | Sunbeam 4214 Iron

2 Answers

Retractable cord


first, i'll apologize for not posting pictures with this, but i didn't have a camera handy when i "fixed" it. i'll do my best to explain the sitch.

i also have a sunbeam 4124 whose retractor was jammed...the cord would not release more than two feet or so, nor would it retract. i was able to disassemble it, but broke some internal retaining clips meant to hold the retractor housing to the iron. WARNING!! do not attempt this if you do not want to void your warranty. i can only assume that the manufacturer did not want you to disassemble the cord return housing and as such, hid the retaining clips where it would be impossible to disengage them. i got lucky and only broke one set of the retaining clips....if you carry on, you stand a chance of breaking both sets, which will not allow you to reattach the retractor housing to your iron securely. best thing to do is call sunbeam and have them send you a new iron, but if you're bent on fixing it yourself, here's how i did it (you'll need one medium philips head screwdriver):

1) remove the rubber feet from the bottom of the iron. this will expose two screw holes (the third foot under the retractor button has no screw; this is the side where the reaining clips are buried).
2) remove the two screws
3) WARNING! this is where you have a good chance of breaking your iron. pull the base of the iron really hard, rocking it from side to side. there are two sets of retaining clips recessed in the housing of the iron. the button will come with the base of the iron, the entire cord retraction assembly is self-contained. you can carefully use a screwdriver to pry the two halves apart. also, be careful not to pull too hard as the electrical connections between the iron and the retractor assembly has only about 2 inches of slack, though the connections are just wire-nut'd together and could be reassembled in a pinch.
4) after the retractor housing is separated from the iron, remove the housing cap by unscrewing the four screws.
5) carefully separate the two halves of the housing; the spring may be loose inside and could snap out at you.

here's where my iron was broken....the coil spring is contained by a plastic tray that had snapped, probably due to somebody pulling the cord out too hard. a section of the tray had jammed itself into the inside of the housing, immobilizing the winding mechanism. my only recourse was to completely remove the spring and permanently extend the cord all the way (not one of the features i bought the iron for anyway, so what the heck). PLEASE be careful unwinding the spring if you have to do it....wouldn't want anybody poking out an eye inadvertantly.

6) reassemble the retractor housing by screwing the cap back on with the four screws
7) if you're lucky enough to keep one set of retainer clips, snap the base of the iron back on and reattach the two screws located under the feet.
8) rubber pads back in and voila!

hope this helps!

Jun 12, 2007 | Sunbeam 4214 Iron

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