Question about Hayward Pro Series 31 Inch In Ground Pool Sand Filter System with Pump

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I too have this problem after treatment for algae, especially if I got a day or two without running the pump, it starts to get mildly green. After adding the algaecide, it kills the algae, but leaves what I call the white dead takes several days for this to phase out.

If you aren't already doing so, put 3" tablets in the pump basket housing, that helps dramatically. Put a pair of knee-high pantyhose (one inside the other), on the return inside the pool. (you will be amazed what it catches after a few days). Also you can try some "clarifier" to help clear up the cloudiness.

I'm no pool expert, but have dealt with the cloudiness myself. Through trial and error, have learned that cloudy water doesn't necessary mean dirty water. It will clear within a day or two if you are keeping stabilizer tablets in pump basket and using shock once a week. And run the pump for about 8-12 hours a day, it will clear up quicker. And to me, using the pantyhose is an extra-filter and it catches the 'gunk' that the sand in the filter isn't catching. (it can't possibly get everything). Be sure to backwash your pump frequently too.

Hope this helps at least some. Good luck!

Posted on Jul 29, 2009

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We have a 60ltr tropical fish tank, there are only 6 fish in it at this time, at the moment we have to complete a part water change every week as the water goes green and cloudy.\r\n
we have tried using the algae solution
we use the stress coat solution
we also use the hardness fluid

Posted on Oct 05, 2009

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Thank you for posting your question here on

You need to be able to test at least chlorine, salinity, ph, alkalinity, and stabilizer. The best way is using test strips. If you have a sample of water tested at a pool supply store that will work too but frequent transportation is more costly than strips. The salinity should be about 3000 ppm, Chlorine should be between 2 and 4 ppm, alkalinity should be between and 80 and 140 ppm and the stabilizer should be between 30 and 50 ppm. Some say up to 100 ppm. Unfortunately higher stabilizer reduces the chlorine's ability to kill algae, etc. When the water becomes cloudy it is likely low on chlorine and is about to turn green. If the test shows low chlorine level then I would add shock to 10 ppm chlorine. If the filter system is working correctly then it should clear up fairly soon. I would not let anyone swim until the chlorine is between 2 and 4 ppm and you can clearly see the pool bottom.

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