A shaft 40mm in diameter is turned on a lathe the cutting tool applies a force of 3KN assuming that 18Nm of torque is lost due to friction in the lathe spindle determine

ALWAYS replace U-bolts when the spring is fully RELAXED. This makes the process a lot safer AND easier.
The torque setting will depend on the grade and diameter of the U-bolt you're using. Common grades are Grade 5 and Grade 8. Grade 8 is different quality of steel and can be torqued a lot tighter than a Grade 5. This idea also applies to the diameter of the bolt, bigger bolt = higher torque setting. A common setting, assuming it's a Grade 5 bolt, is around 90ft/lb (120Nm).
Always tighten all 4 U-bolts together as a set of 4, working diagonally to keep the U-bolts mounted straight and correct. This will give even pressure for the clamping force.
Try the website below for more information.

https://www.suspensionspecialists.com/techinfo/Ubolt_Information.pdf

There is no direct relationship between velocity and force. In a friction-free environment, no force is required to maintain velocity. Force is required to increase or decrease velocity (accelerate or decelerate), but as soon as the force is removed, velocity stabilizes at the new value.
When working with gears, force is multiplied according to the gear ratio of the gears (mechanical advantage). If you apply 100 lb-ft of force on the input gear of a gearset that has a 3.5 to 1 ratio, you will get 350 lb-ft of torque from the output gear (friction disregarded). This torque (force) is applied to overcome the inertia of whatever load you are applying the force to.
In practical terms, the torque of the engine, without being 'geared down', is inadequate to overcome the inertia of a vehicle (accelerate) quickly. So you start in a lower gear (higher ratio), and transition to higher gears (lower ratios) as vehicle velocity is attained. This is done manually or automatically. On most current vehicles, an overdrive gear (ratio less than 1 to 1) slows the engine speed even further for better fuel economy.
At a constant (cruising) velocity, you only need enough force from the engine to overcome wind resistance, tire resistance on the road, and the friction of all moving parts of the powertrain. So even at a high velocity (100 kph/60 mph), relatively little force is required.

18nm or 13ft pounds the pan has the torque stamped on the oil pan, near the oil drain plug.

I haven't the faintest idea what you are referring to so obviously I can't picture the problem.

The big question is, are the bolts snapping because of excess tension or being cut through by too much shear force?

A careful examination of the broken bolts should provide the answer.

Generally the amount of shear force a bolt can withstand is minimal so in any assembly where shear forces are a problem, the designer will specify the size, type and number of bolts to provide sufficient clamping force so the friction between the two components is so high the bolts aren't subjected to a shear force, only to tension. In this case if the bolts shear it will be because of poor design, because the mating surfaces are no longer flat enough to provide the friction to keep them stable or because the clamping force is insufficient due to incorrect bolts being used or insufficient tightening of the bolts.

In any high stress design the designer might specify extra-high tensile bolts, or bolts of a special diameter shank so the bolts also act as interference dowels when assembled so fitting the wrong bolts can be a big problem. Using setscrews instead of bolts is doomed to failure from the start with a high-stess design.
If there is any heat around sometimes bolts can expand lengthwise more than the material they are clamping and in that case the components might be dowelled in addition to bolts or hih expansion washers used under the bolt heads.

I suggest you begin by checking on the original specification and analysing how the joint is supposed to work, the forces it is subjected to and what goes wrong. Then the answer to your question will be clearer and easier to find.

Good luck!

I am going to assume your are removing the tranny in order to change the clutch? Again, assuming you have everything disconnected, somtimes they just get stuck on the input shaft going through the clutch disc. If you have to resort to brut force, be carfull prying on the aluminum and apply force on both sides at the same time.

The traction control system senses wheel spin from either drive wheel. Excessive spin sensed by the ABS sensor will force the wheel that is spinning to brake to avoid loss of traction. You could have a faulty ABS sensor (wheel speed sensor) As far as the engine "cutting off" Do you mean that it shuts off completely or you cannot accelerate?

Disconnect battery earth lead. Do not turn crankshaft or camshaft when timing belt removed. Remove spark plugs to ease turning engine. Turn engine in normal direction of ratation unless otherwise stated, Support engine. Remove, engine mounting, auxilliaty drive belts. Water pump pulley 1. Crankshaft pulley bolts 21. crankshaft pully 2. timing belt covers 3. Turn crankshaft to TDC on No 1 cyclinder. Ensure crankshaft sprocket, camshaft sprocket, oil pump sprocket and balancer shaft sprocket timing marks aligned. Timing marks on camshaft sprockets should align with cylinder head upper face. Dowel pins on camshaft sprockets should face upwards. Slacken tensioner bolt. Move tensioner away from belt and lightly tighten bolt. Remove, automatic tensioner unit bolts. Automatic tensioner unit. Timing belt, crankshaft centre bolt, crankshaft sprocket. Crankshaft sprocket guide washer. Slacken blancer shaft belt tensioner bolt. Move tensioner away from belt and lightly tighten bolt. Remove balancer shaft belt.

Installation
Ensuring timing marks arligned. Note timing marks on camshaft sprockets should align with cylinder head upper face. Exhaust sprocket mark is on recess, but inlet sprocket mark is on tooth. Note: to check oil pump sprocket positioned correctly, removing blanking plug from cylinder block. Insert 8mm diameter Phillips srcrewdriver in hole. Ensure screwdriver is inserted 60mm from face of cylinder block. if screwdriver can only be inserted 20mm: turn oil pump sprocket 360°. Insert screwdriver again. Fit balancer shaft belt in anti-clockwise direction, starting at crankshaft sprocket. Slacken balancer shaft belt tensioner bolt. Turn tensioner clockwise to tension belt. Tighten bolt to 15-22Nm. Apply thumb pressure to belt. Belt should deflect 5-7 mm. If not repeat tensioning procedure. Install crankshaft sprocket guide washer, crnakshaft sprocket. Tighten crankshaft cente bolt. Tighten torque:110-130 Nm. Note ensure crankshaft sprocket guide washer is fitted correclty. Oil treads and contact face of crankshaft body before fitting. Check tensioner body for leakage or damage replace if necessary. Check pushrod protrusion is 12mm. If not replace automatic tensioner unit. Slowly compress pushrod into tensioner body until holes aligned. Resistance should be felt. Place flat washer under tnesioner body to avoid damage to body end plugs. Retain pushrod with suitable pin through hole in tensioner body. install automatic tensioner unit to cylinder block. Tighten bolts to 22-27Nm. Fit timing belt in anti-clockwise direction, starting at the tensioner pulley. Slacken tensioner pulley bolt. Turn tensioner pully clockwise to temporarily tension belt. Tighten bolts to 43-45Nm. Turn crankshaft slowly 1/4 turn anti-cockwise. Turn crankshaft clockwise until timing marks alligned. Slacken tensioner pully bolt. Fit tool to tensioner pulley. Tool No 09244 28100. Apply clockwise torque of 2,6-2,8 Nm to tensioner pulley. Tighten bolt to 43-45Nm. Insert special tool in timing belt rear casing. Tool no 09244-28000. Screw in tool until pin can be removed from automatic tensioner unit. Remove special tool. Tool nr 09244-28000. turn crankshaft two turns clockwise. Wait 15 minutes. Ensure timing marks aligned. Check extended length of pushrod is 3,8-4,5mm. Install components in reverse order of removal. Tighten crankshaft pulley bolts, Tighten torque 20-30Nm

Axle Shaft: Service and Repair
Axle Shaft, Constant Velocity Type
Single cardan U-joint components are not serviceable. If defective, they must be replaced as a unit. If the bearings, seals, spider, or bearing caps are
damaged or worn, replace the complete U-joint.
REMOVAL
CAUTION: Clamp only the narrow forged portion of the yoke in the vise. Also, to avoid distorting the yoke, do not over tighten the vise jaws.
1. Remove axle shaft.
2. Remove the bearing cap retaining snap rings (Fig. 19).
It can be helpful to saturate the bearing caps with penetrating oil prior to removal.
3. Locate a socket where the inside diameter is larger in diameter than the bearing cap. Place the socket (receiver) against the yoke and around the
perimeter of the bearing cap to be removed.
4. Locate a socket where the outside diameter is smaller in diameter than the bearing cap. Place the socket (driver) against the opposite bearing cap.
5. Position the yoke with the sockets in a vise (Fig. 20).
6. Compress the vise jaws to force the bearing cap into the larger socket (receiver).
7. Release the vise jaws. Remove the sockets and bearing cap that was partially forced out of the yoke.
8. Repeat the above procedure for the remaining bearing cap.
9. Remove the remaining bearing cap, bearings, seals and spider from the propeller shaft yoke.
INSTALLATION
1. Pack the bearing caps 1/3 full of wheel bearing lubricant. Apply Extreme Pressure (EP), lithium-base lubricant to aid in installation.
2. Position the spider in the yoke. Insert the seals and bearings. Tap the bearing caps into the yoke bores far enough to hold the spider in position.
3. Place the socket (driver) against one bearing cap. Position the yoke with the socket wrench in a vise.
4. Compress the vise to force the bearing caps into the yoke. Force the caps enough to install the retaining clips.
5. Install the bearing cap retaining clips.
6. Install axle shaft.

its the brake pad wear indicator telling you your pads are in need of replacing

call your dealer to get an estimate too.

Shift Patterns Upshifts
Transmission upshifting is controlled by the powertrain control module. The PCM receives inputs from various engine or vehicle sensors and driver demands to control shift scheduling, shift feel and torque converter clutch (TCC) operation.
The PCM has an adaptive learn strategy to electronically control the transmission which will automatically adjust the shift feel. When the battery has been disconnected, or a new battery installed certain transmission operating parameters may be lost. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) must re-learn these parameters. During this learning process you may experience slightly firm shifts, delayed, or early shifts. This operation is considered normal and will not affect the function of the transmission. Normal operation will return once these parameters are stored by the PCM.
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Apply Components Band — Overdrive
For component location, refer to Disassembled Views in this section.
During 2nd and 5th gear operation, hydraulic pressure is applied to the overdrive servo.

• This pressure causes the piston to move and apply force to the band.
• This action causes the overdrive band to hold the overdrive drum.
• This causes the overdrive sun gear to be held stationary through the adapter plate and the overdrive drum.

Band — Low/Reverse
For component location, refer to Disassembled Views in this section.
During 2nd gear operation, 1st gear operation and reverse, hydraulic pressure is applied to the low/reverse servo.

• This pressure causes the servo to move and apply force to the low/reverse band.
• This action causes the low/reverse brake drum to be held.
• This action causes the low/reverse planetary assembly to be held stationary.

Band — Intermediate
For component location, refer to Disassembled Views in this section.
During 3rd gear operation, hydraulic pressure is applied to the intermediate servo.

• This pressure causes the servo to move and apply force to the intermediate band.
• This action causes the direct clutch drum to be held.
• The intermediate band holds the intermediate brake and direct clutch drum to the case in 3rd gear.
• This causes the input shell and forward sun gear to be held stationary.

Clutches — Direct
For component location, refer to Disassembled Views in this section.
The direct clutch is a multi-disc clutch made up of steel and friction plates.

• The direct clutch is applied with hydraulic pressure and disengaged by return springs and the exhaust of the hydraulic pressure.
• It is housed in the direct clutch drum.
• During 4th, 5th, and reverse gear application, the direct clutch is applied transferring torque from the forward clutch cylinder to the direct clutch drum.
• This action causes the forward sun gear to drive the pinions of the low/reverse planetary carrier.

Clutches — Forward
For component location, refer to Disassembled Views in this section.
The forward clutch is a multi-disc clutch made up of steel and friction plates.

• The forward clutch is applied with hydraulic pressure and disengaged by return springs and the exhaust of the hydraulic pressure.
• The forward clutch is applied in all forward gears.
• When applied, the forward clutch provides a direct mechanical coupling between the center shaft and the forward ring gear and hub.

Clutches — Coast
For component location, refer to Disassembled Views in this section.
The coast clutch is a multi-disc clutch made up of steel and friction plates.

• The coast clutch is applied with hydraulic pressure and disengaged by return springs and the exhaust of the hydraulic pressure.
• The coast clutch is housed in the overdrive drum.
• The coast clutch is applied when in 1st, 3rd, D4, and reverse positions.
• When applied, the coast clutch locks the overdrive sun gear to the overdrive planetary carrier, thus preventing the one-way clutch from overrunning when the vehicle is coasting.
  • This allows the use of engine compression to help slow the vehicle and provide engine braking.

Clutches — Intermediate
For component location, refer to Disassembled Views in this section.
The intermediate clutch is a multi-disc stationary clutch made up of steel and friction plates which are in a module assembly that includes the cylinder and frictions.

• Applied with hydraulic pressure.
• Disengaged by a return spring and releasing of hydraulic pressure.
• Hydraulic pressure is feed through a feed tube in the case worm trail.
• Uses a bonded piston in an aluminum housing.
• Applied in during a 2-3 shift event.
• Transfers torque from the sun gear to the planetary carrier.
• Torque transfer causes the one way clutch to engage and holds the sun gear from turning, delivering 3rd gear.

One-Way Clutch — Direct
For component location, refer to Disassembled Views in this section.
The direct one-way clutch is a sprag-type one-way clutch that is pressed into the center shaft.

• The direct one-way clutch is driven by the ring gear of the overdrive planetary carrier.
• The direct one-way clutch holds and drives the outer splines of the center shaft in 1st, 3rd, 4th and reverse gears.
• The direct one-way clutch overruns during all coast operations and at all times in 2nd and 5th gear.

One-Way Clutch — Intermediate
For component location, refer to Disassembled Views in this section.
The Intermediate One-Way Clutch is a sprag type one-way clutch.

• The Intermediate One-Way Clutch connects the intermediate assembly to the input shell and sun gear assembly in third gear.

One-Way Clutch — Low/Reverse
For component location, refer to Disassembled Views in this section.
The low/reverse one-way clutch is a sprag type one-way clutch.

• The low/reverse one-way clutch holds the low/reverse drum and low/reverse planetary assembly to the case in 1st and 2nd gear.
• In all other gears the low/reverse one-way clutch overruns.

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