Question about Refrigerators
My refrigerator is beeping. It is the same beeping it makes when I leave the door open too long. The doors are closed and properly sealed. It is in the garage, and it happens when it is cold outside. Chicago area temps. I called Sears, and they said it is due to outside temp. Both sections appear to be functioning properly. When it has been beeping, and I open both top and bottom doors at the same time, the interitor lights occasionally do not turn on, and when I close both doors and reopen only one door the light turns on. Then when I close the door and open both, the lights come on. The only time the lights do not turn on is when I open both after it has started beeping. How do I stop the beeping? Could it be a switch malfunction? Maybe I should just blow it up, or tie it to the back of my car and drag it down the highway. I am sure the beeping will stop for sure. Thanks for your help and advice.
SOURCE: refrigerator trouble shooting
Condensation only ever happens if the door is left open for a long period. - The warm ambient air condenses on anything cold - like the food in there.
Because of convection, the door need only be open 1/4" to be affected. Quite often a bag pushes the door open a little.
Check all door seals for splits - clean them.
Make sure nothing is touching the back cooling plate, and it should be fine from there.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Jun 11, 2008
My Kenmore Elite (Model 795.7755 3600), less than two years old, had
the same problem. One morning I opened the doors to a hot fridge and
burning plastic. The light housing was sizzling hot - much of the unit
literally melting away. Another hour or two and it could have been
Called the 1-800 number listed in the fridge. After about 45 minutes of patient talking, I learned that Sears (or Kenmore) have issued what they refer to as a "flash warranty) on the light fixture kit (Kit # 6871JB1423N) which in effect, for this part only, extends the factory warranty from one year to three years. I may even be able to have a factory tech install the parts. Hope it works out.
Bottom line: if you have this fridge, be very careful and monitor closely. An pursue the part warranty!
Posted on Jan 13, 2009
That sound is usually your icemaker calling for water. you can turn off your icemaker by lifting the little arm on the icemaker. As the icemaker calls for water the valve will be activated and will hum. This sound is usually not very loud. If your valve is making that much noise you may consider replacing the valve. The part number for you water inlet valve is #2315533 The retail price is $60.18 . I do have these on hand and available to ship out today if you need one. Please just let me know. You may also consider replacing your filter if your refrigerator has one. Thanks and I hope this will fixYa
Posted on Feb 17, 2009
I'll assume you don't have much food/items in the freezer section. Because you have the fridge set on the max cooling setting and the freezer set higher than the mid setting, it could be that you have frozen the cold air passage from the freezer to the fridge.
If you can, 1) remove all contents that would spoil; 2) turn off the fridge 3) open both doors and allow the fridge to manually thaw out completely (this will speed up the opening of the cold air exchange passage between the freezer and fridge, which is likely blocked and frozen solid. Have plenty of towels handy to soak up the water from the defrosting process,
After a FULL day of being left off and doors open to thaw out, check for any further thawing and dripping water inside, if present wait another 8 hours (you really want to get it thawed out the first time!) When that's done, reset BOTH temperature controls to the factory mid-point setting (5?) as marked on your control knobs.
The key to having a refridgerator run properly is to allow for it to run at the factory settings for at least 24 hours BEFORE you adjust the controls higher and/or lower for each section. Adjust it up or down in ONLY 1 setting increments so as to not cause ice build-up and freezing of the internal air exchange passages.
Also, as you've relegated this fridge as a garage "beer & backup" unit, make sure to keep the freezer as full as possible to make it run as efficiently as possible. You can freeze jugs of water and pack it with cheap thrift store bread to help it run correctly. An empty freezer has to work harder to keep just air at freezing temps. As such, it will pass much colder air into the fridge, and cause these types of freeze ups. By the way, turning up the temp controls only makes it worse and just results in a total "freeze up" inside the cabinet panels that you can't easily see or get at to rectify, hence the reason to shut it off and let it fully defrost.
When you're done, you should have your fridge back in action working like it should, but remember, don't rush temperature adjustments, even thou we all want those frosty beverages, it'll take a couple of days to achieve the desired "chill" you're likely used to getting when it was your primary fridge.
Hope this helps and Best Regards! Semper Fi!
Posted on Aug 03, 2009
WHEN i OPEN MY WHIRLPOOL FRIDGE THE LIGHT FLASHES ON AND OFF AND THE COMPRESSOR APPEARS TO CUT IN AND OUT AND THE FRIDGE BEEPS UNTIL DOOR IS CLOSED. cAN ANYONE HELP?
Posted on Oct 25, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Oct 17, 2012 | Kenmore Side by Side Refrigerator
Mar 30, 2011 | Whirlpool 17.6 Cu. Ft. Top-Mount...
Jan 10, 2011 | Hotpoint Refrigerators
Sep 11, 2010 | Liebherr Refrigerators
Dec 11, 2009 | Samsung RF265AA Bottom Freezer French Door...
Sep 22, 2009 | Refrigerators
Mar 04, 2009 | Refrigerators
Dec 21, 2008 | KitchenAid Architect KBFA20ERSS Stainless...
Sep 29, 2007 | KitchenAid Superba Architect KSCS25INSS...
93 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!