Question about Ryobi Backpack Blower 25.4cc

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Backpack only runs low RPM, especially when cold.

Low RPM. Can't increase the RPM much, even at full throttle -low RPM. No adjustable needle valves.

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Your carbeurator is gummed up. Remove the old fuel and make up a new fuel mix with new gas from the gas station. Then get a can of carbeurator cleaner spray. Three short squirts in the air intake and let it run. Three more squirts every minute or so until you dissolve the partial blockage that is causing your problem.

Posted on Jul 28, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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A friend of mine gave me a zr series ,625cdv homelite weed eater and I can't figure out how to adjust the carb. Bought a new primer bulb it crank and run for a little bit but I have to idle it high


Screw in the HIGH and LOW needle valves. Then turn each one out 1 full turn, That should be a good starting point.
After engine is running Run engine at Full throttle. Loosen HIGH screw until the engines RPM slows a bit. When that happens Turn screw back in until it revs high and then just starts to slow again. You do not want the engine to run at it's highest RPM or it's not getting enough Lubrication It need to run Rich, that's why you screw the screw in a bit after the engine has reached it's highest RPM. Let it idle down . Then Accelerate hard, if it hesitates, loosen or tighten the LOW until it accelerates quickly with no hesitation.

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Saw starts runs good then when i start cutting it


Hi Jason:
Make and model might help but here's two ideas:
1) Remove muffler and clean it. They can get plugged up with carbon and the saw will run at low RPM but will quit because of excess back pressure when you try to rev it up.
2) Set the high and low speed carb settings. Start the saw then gradually increase engine speed until full throttle. Screw the hi-speed needle in slowly. If RPM immediately drops, back it out until Rpm increases, then starts to drop. Screw back in until peak rpm reached, then starts to drop. Back out to peak, then 1/3 turn more.
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Is there an adjustment to increase hydraulic power on Komatsu pc35mr-2 mini excavator? Or is there a sensor that is responsible for relationship between engine rpm and hydraulic operation?


you assumption is right
the pump is operating at idle as at full rpms and is controlled by pressure relief valves
When demand for pressure is low the valves will be partially opened and will operate when the pressure is reduced ( ram valve is moved)
Higher rpms maintain the pressure for faster ram operation
I would suggest that you have the system pressure tested by a service centre as it could be a malfunctioning valve (solenoid) or a failing pump

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  1. Full throttle only, on hot days, at low rpm. Carburetor is a bit lean in needle seat or main jet. Not too serious. We all have this problem sometimes.
  2. Full throttle only, on hot days, at mid or high rpm. Carburetor is a bit lean in needle seat or main jet. This is more serious. Get on this problem soon.
  3. Happens even while cruising at a constant speed. Carburetion is way too lean, or compression ratio is too high, or the gas you just bought is Tijuana special, cut with #2 diesel. Pull off the road, call for a trailer. This is big time serious.
Black smoke on full throttle acceleration.
Main jet is too rich.
Grey smoke on full throttle acceleration.
Bad valve guide seals, or bad rings. The engine was mis-assembled.
Grey smoke when you start the engine, particularly when cold.
Bad valve guide seals. The engine was mis-assembled.
Ticking sound which goes faster and slower as the engine does.
  1. Bad spark plug connection to ignition coil (pray this is it).
  2. Stuck lifter.
  3. Improper valve to valve clearance, or improper valve to piston clearance.
Engine misses at idle or full throttle acceleration.
Bad connection from ignition coils to spark plugs.
Truly crummy gas mileage, as in less than 40 when cruising, or less than 35 around town.
  1. Too much cam duration. You're blowing gas out your exhaust pipes.
  2. Carburetor is way too rich, especially in the midrange.
  3. Accelerator pump on carburetor is adjusted too aggressively.

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I have a 2008 mercury Milan with nearly 60k miles on it. When I come to a stop the rpm drops by 1000 then recovers quickly. What should I do to fix the problem? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.


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How do I adjust needle valves on a 25cc Homelite UT08111A Backpack leaf blower?


Set the lowend & highend needles to about 1 3/4 to 2 turns each. Choke the carb or prime it, until the carb is wet. Fire up the engine and let it warm up. Let's set the topend first since it's the easier of the two. Go to full throttle. Adjust the topend needle for peak RPM. Leave it wide open for about a minute to see if it changes any. Should the engine go lean, open the lowend needle slightly, if this dosen't work... you will have to adjust the needle valve inside the carb.( I will explain this later) If the topend runs OK, then slowly pull the throttle down until the engine begins to "four cycle" hold the throttle there. Adjust the lowend needle until the "four cycling" barely stops. Now lower the throttle more until it "four cycles" again, and adjust the lowend again. Keep doing this until you reach full idle. Now, from full idle begin to throttle up until the engine starts to bog or hesitate. Open up the lowend needle just enough to eliminate the bog or hesitation.

http://tech.flygsw.org/walbro_tuneup.htm

hope this helps :)
if it does please vote

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2 Answers

Flatlining at 3000 RPM


maybe the cam timing is off. If the engine was torn down and reassembled wrong, that would do it. Connect a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold and see what you get for vacuum readings.
It should be about 17 inches at idle. And, it should be steady.

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  1. NORMAL READING: Needle between 51-74 kPa (15-22 in-Hg) and holding steady.
  1. NORMAL READING DURING RAPID ACCELERATION AND DECELERATION: When engine is rapidly accelerated (dotted needle), needle will drop to a low (not to zero) reading. When throttle is suddenly released, the needle will snap back up to a higher than normal figure.
  1. NORMAL FOR HIGH-LIFT CAMSHAFT WITH LARGE OVERLAP: Needle will register as low as 51 kPa (15 in-Hg) but will be relatively steady. Some oscillation is normal.
  1. WORN RINGS OR DILUTED OIL: When engine is accelerated (dotted needle), needle drops to 0 kPa (0 in-Hg). Upon deceleration, needle runs slightly above 74 kPa (22 in-Hg).
  1. STICKING VALVES: When the needle (dotted) remains steady at a normal vacuum but occasionally flicks (sharp, fast movement) down and back about 13 kPa (4 in-Hg), one or more valves may be sticking.
  1. BURNED OR WARPED VALVES: A regular, evenly-spaced, downscale flicking of the needle indicates one or more burned or warped valves. Insufficient hydraulic valve tappet clearance will also cause this reaction.
  1. POOR VALVE SEATING: A small but regular downscale flicking can mean one or more valves are not seating.
  1. WORN VALVE GUIDES: When the needle oscillates (swings back and forth) over about a 13 kPa (4 in-Hg) range at idle speed the valve guides could be worn. As engine speed increases, needle will become steady if guides are responsible.
  1. WEAK VALVE SPRINGS: When the needle oscillation becomes more violent as engine rpm is increased, weak valve springs (6513) are indicated. The reading at idle could be relatively steady.
  1. LATE VALVE TIMING: A steady but low reading could be caused by late valve timing.
  1. IGNITION TIMING RETARDING: Retarded ignition timing will produce a steady but somewhat low reading.
  1. INSUFFICIENT SPARK PLUG GAP: When spark plugs (12405) are gapped too close, a regular, small pulsation of the needle can occur.
  1. INTAKE LEAK: A low, steady reading which can be caused by an intake manifold or throttle body gasket leak.
  1. BLOWN HEAD GASKET: A regular drop of fair magnitude can be caused by a blown head gasket (6051) or warped cylinder head-to-cylinder block surface.
  1. RESTRICTED EXHAUST SYSTEM: When the engine is first started and is idled, the reading may be normal but as the engine rpm is increased, the back pressure caused by a clogged muffler, kinked tailpipe or other concerns, will cause the needle to slowly drop to 0 kPa (0 in-Hg). The needle then may slowly rise. Excessive exhaust clogging will cause the needle to drop to a low point even if the engine is only idling.
    When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the cause. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause concerns such as rough idle, missing on acceleration or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit such as the power brake booster (2005), the unit will not function correctly. ALWAYS FIX VACUUM LEAKS.

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