Question about Whirlpool LGR7646E Dryer

2 Answers

Replaced thermal fuse, and gas valve coils, now no heat at all!

Similar to other postings, dryer would start, gas would ignite, and heat would last about 10-15 minutes then go cold.
I replaced the thermal fuse and the gas valve coils, and now I don't even get the initial burn that I got before.
Did I break something? Not put back together right?

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  • agrannemann Jul 27, 2009

    Going to buy an ohmmeter. Looked through the "peephole" to see the glow bar ignitor. Didn't see anything but darkness. Should it "glow"?

  • agrannemann Jul 28, 2009

    btw, I checked both therms for continuity. All good.

  • agrannemann Jul 29, 2009

    After all, I did break something! When I replaced the gas valve coils, I really had to force the screws on the mounting bracket and that was enough to rattle the glow bar and ignitor, which was shattered!! So, I cost myself an extra $40 for a new glow bar ignitor, but it lights, and holds heat now! Back in Business! Thanks guys!

  • steve
    steve May 11, 2010

    If the dryer is running in a heat mode the glow bar should be bright red/orange. With your VOM check for power to the glow bar.120 volts and not glowing replace it.

  • steve
    steve May 11, 2010

    Test the hi limit thermostat on the exhaust canister for continuity. No continuity it is bad. The thermal fuse stops the dryer from running. If it was running the fuse was good. Is the glow bar ignitor coming on at the gas valve?

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Replace the glow bar ignitor.

Posted on Jul 28, 2009

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Lets review the BASICS

Posted on Jul 28, 2009

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Check the following areas to combat this issue. the most common problem spot will be a blown Thermal fuse.


1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
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Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
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Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

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Below are some links, courtesy of www.repairclinic.com, that will assist you in diagnosing/repair of your dryer. You may have to enter your model number in the search box to access some of the information.

Below is a parts breakdown/disassembly procedures for your dryer.
http://www.repairclinic.com/Dryer-Gas-Maytag-Style-Appliance-Diagram


The link below shows an image of the gas valve coils, which is the most common failure component in the system.

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Below are some tips to follow if the coils are not faulty.

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The igniter is inside the dryer housing, near the bottom front, usually in a cone-shaped metal tube (the force cone). It's about 2 inches long. It's mounted to the far end of the burner tube, and it has two wires attached to it--or to the tension bracket, if there is one.

Gas valve coils Watch the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)

You can also obtain more appliance information at my website, www.homemanagement.services.officelive.com

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Just click below;

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If it does not heat , and you already checked the burner and the ignitor, then it is probably the thermal fuse at the back of the appliance.

See the following suggestions from Repairclinic:

No heat If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Igniter
Gas valve coils
Thermal fuse
Igniter Modern gas dryers use an electric igniter to ignite the gas from the gas valve. When it's working properly, the igniter glows bright orange. When it burns out, the dryer tumbles but there's no heat because the gas can't ignite. When the igniter burns out, you need to replace it. If the igniter is held by a tension bracket, you very well may need to replace the bracket too.

The igniter is inside the dryer housing, near the bottom front, usually in a cone-shaped metal tube (the force cone). It's about 2 inches long. It's mounted to the far end of the burner tube, and it has two wires attached to it--or to the tension bracket, if there is one.

Gas valve coils Watch the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time.

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