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I've dropped a screw under the feed plate & can' t get it out. how do i take the plastic cover off to retrieve it

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  • Brother Master
  • 9,583 Answers

What is the Make & Model of your machine?

Sometimes, if you tilt the sewing machine the screw will work loose. Or perhaps a small magnet (like what mechanics have on an extending rod).

Posted on Aug 12, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: I received a new machine and was excited about the Quilt 'N Sew... I just watched the video and discovered my machine came without the Feed Cover Plate. I understand the video has many features a

contact the place the machine came from & tell them the feed cover plate is
missing & ask them where it's at, that you need it.

Posted on Apr 12, 2012

SOURCE: need a front drop door for parts/arm surrounding feed plate

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Posted on Apr 18, 2012

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1 Answer

Cant find anywhere that tells me if i can drop feed dogs on my singer simple 3223


Could be your machine is one that the feed dogs do not drop. Instead, there is plate somewhere in the accessories that fastens over the feed dogs.

3223 SIMPLE Singer Sewing

Since your machine has a "darning plate," that is a good indication the feed dogs do not drop.

...

Oct 23, 2016 | Singer 3232 Simple Sewing Machine

2 Answers

Necchi 4595 feed dogs keep dropping


Tighten the screw under the plate near the feed dog

Sep 20, 2013 | Necchi 4595 Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

How do i drop the feed dog on singer 7463 confidence so i can free motion sew?


You cannot drop the Feed Dogs on a 7463 Singer. It should have come with a small black plastic shied that will slide over the Feed Dogs and clip into the two holes in the face plate to cover them completely. If you've lost that dark plastic plate, you can also tape an index card over them, or a piece of thin plastic (like template sheets) to get the job done.

May 20, 2012 | Singer Confidence 7463 Computerized Sewing...

1 Answer

How do I get the teeth to grab and advance the material on my very old Bernina 830?


Well there's a number of reasons why it may not be advancing the material. First, ensure that the teeth are completely cleaned-out - get an old toothbrush, or similar with firm filaments and, with the stitch-plate removed and the bobbin door open, give the teeth a really firm clean across the teeth to remove anything in between ... this is especially important if you've been sewing with metallised fabric or thread. If the teeth are nice and clean, check if they are still pyramidal with a reasonably 'sharp' point facing backwards - if the machine is very old and very well used, the teeth might be rather rounded and it may be time that you have a new feed dog fitted ... some of the old machines are difficult to obtain spares, but they're mostly still out there. Most commonly, check how far the teeth of the feed dogs protrude above the stitch plate ... this is a bit difficult to do and should really be done with a proper gauge, but generally they should protrude 1mm above the stitch plate - less than that and you wont get the material to move properly, especially if its fine material. Lastly, it could be the foot pressure that's the problem ... if there's inadequate foot pressure, the material will not be pushed adequately onto the dogs. Again, unfortunately, you really need a proper gauge to set the foot pressure, but if the dogs are clean, in reasonable condition and have 1mm of clearance above the stitch plate, you can try increasing the foot pressure a bit. This is done by opening the top cover and you will see a large-ish flat-blade screw in a threaded tube just behind where the needle bar goes up and down and to the left of the takeup arm. If the screw is rather near the top of the threaded tube, you can try screwing it down (clockwise) maybe 2-3 turns to see if it makes a difference ... of not, dont be tempted to just keep screwing up the pressure ... there's something else wrong. Oh .... and by the way .... before you've done any of the above, I assume you've checked that the feed-dogs are not dropped ! You can drop the feed-dogs to do embroidery etc on the 830 - there's a small round knob below the stitch length control - make sure its turned to the position that shows a tooth pattern and not the cross-hathced pattern and make sure the feed dogs do actually come above the stitch plate when turning the handwheel - if they dont, or moving the feed-dog drop control doesn't make any difference, then the link mechanism is almost certainly jammed (really, really common on old machines that haven't been regularly maintained!). To free that off, you need to remove the free-arm cover and look to the front right side of the mechanics - you'll see a linkage that should turn when you rotate the feed-dog drop control - if this doesn't separate or is permanently separated, whatever you do with the control, you need to give it a drop or two of Bernina sewing oil and gently help it move - once free, that should solve the problem. I cant think of any other reasons !!

Hope that helps !

Nov 16, 2011 | Bernina Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Why when i put the feed cover on i cant move the fabrice at all there is no room between the foot and the cover. i am trying to quilt together my quilts. thank you brenda g


I'm assuming your machine has a little plate you put over the feed dogs rather than a knob which disengages the feed dogs from moving to do free motion embroidery or something.

If this is the case there probably isn't enough room for your quilt sandwich under the foot.

You could try using a free motion embroidery foot rather than the regular foot with the feed dogs up and see if that allows you sufficient movement.

It would look like this:
10_25_2011_5_08_51_am.jpg


It may take some practice still to get a smooth stipple if that is the effect you are going for.

You may find some other ideas on quilting websites to get around this problem or in a Yahoo group for quilters. I've only ever quilted in straight stitch using my walking foot so it feeds the quilt smoothly for me, never tried FMQ.

Oct 24, 2011 | Brother XL-5130 Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

I have a Bernina 135S and I managed to get a pin caught in between the plate and the feed dogs. I removed the plate, took out the pin and put it back together although now my feed dogs only move up and...


Check whether the feed dogs are coming above the stitch-plate at their maximum height. They should be about 1mm above the stitch plate when driving the material under the foot. I assume, by the way, that you haven't got the feed-dog drop button pushed-in at the handwheel end !!! If the feed-dogs are lower than 1mm, or not above the stitch-plate, the dog cam cam-foller will need adjustment. You have to remove the front cover to get at this and it should be done with a special gauge, so really its a service agent job, however, for what its worth;
With the front cover removed to gain access to the free-arm mechanism, look to the right of the hook race and on the end of the bottom drive shaft there are two black plastic cams . The right-hand one regulates the movement of the dogs front-to-back in association with the stitch-length stepper-motor, which drives the upper shaft in the free-arm. The left-hand cam regulates the up-down movement of the dogs and the cam follower (a piece of right-angled plated metal) has to be adjusted to determine the maximum height of the dogs aboe the stitch plate. The cam follower rubs against the top edge of the dog cam. There should be a small spring that pulls the cam follower down onto the cam at the front - if that's missing, the feed-dogs probably wont move quite correctly. To adjust the dog height, turn the hand-wheel until the feed-dogs are at their maximum height, unscrew the small screw in the left-hand side of the cam follower a couple of turns (dont, for goodness-sake, take it out !) - the feed-dogs should then pop-up above the stitch-plate. You now have a problem without the proper gauge ! You need to gently push the dogs back down against spring pressure until they are the correct height above the stitch-plate and tighten the screw on the cam follower. This should, at least, get over the problem - it wont be exactly right without the gauge and there is another adjustment that should be done to ensure the front and back of the dogs are at slightly different heights, but it should be good enough without this.

Good Luck !!!

Sep 01, 2011 | Bernina Activa 130

1 Answer

I have a brother XL 5130 should I have either a plate or lever to drop the feed dogs? I also misplaced my manual can you send me the English ssection thanks Barbara


This machine does not have a feed dog drop, but it does include a feed dog cover that covers them so you can do free motion. The cover is a little piece of black plastic that kind of resembles this: 3d18346.png

Here is the link to the manual,
http://welcome.solutions.brother.com/BSC/public/files/dlf/doch000062/xl513052325340ug01enesfr.pdf
Let me know if you need more help, Chris

Jun 11, 2010 | Brother XL-5130 Mechanical Sewing Machine

2 Answers

How do I drop the feed dog on a singer sewing machine 8280


They do not drop.

The accessories with this model include a darning plate, which is a plastic shield that snaps over the feed dogs.

If you cannot find the darning plate, poke a hole for the needle in the center of an index card and tape it over the feed dogs with blue painter's tape (does not leave a residue) and set the stitch length to zero.

Be sure to use a darning foot and lower the presser foot.

Mar 11, 2010 | Singer 8280 Mechanical Sewing Machine

2 Answers

Can the feed dogs be lowered? And need a manual....


Manuals will be difficult to find because the companies limit themsleves to the amount of spares they make, open the slide plate and see if there is a drop feed lever, if not you may have raised plates instead.

Mar 06, 2010 | Janome 8080 Computerized Sewing Machine

1 Answer

How can I get the case of my Singer Featherweight II open?


To remove the cover of the Singer model 117 Featherweight II sewing machine:

Referring to the diagram below:
hronbo.jpg
1.Remove the face plate by removing the single screw fastening it to the left end of the chassis.

2.
To make things easier, remove the presser foot (raise the presser foot and release the presser foot from its holder by pressing the black plastic foot release found at the rear of the foot holder, the foot will fall off.)

3.Remove the plastic see-thru slide plate that covers the bobbin. Remove the bobbin, and remove the two screws that secure the needle plate.Lift off the needle plate.Don't mess with the feed dog screws( Look closely at the" bobbin case assembly" and note how it is installed. The black thing you are looking at is the assembly. The chrome thing that looks like a hook is a fixed "bobbin case stop plate" , the case assembly fits under that and is supported by the hook race. Approximately 180 degrees from the fixed stop is a spring stop- note that the bobbin case assembly is free to rotate/ wiggle approximately 1/8" between these two points, and it is seated evenly in the hook race.Remember what you see so you can reinstall it later)Remove the bobbin case assembly with your fingers.

4.Remove the detachable tool case from the front of the machine by sliding it to the left.

5.The face cover is fastened to the chassis with four screws- two on the bottom which also pass through the bottom of the rear cover, one behind the face plate just above the lower thread guide, and one on the front of the machine behind the tool case. Remove the screws on the front and the left end, and loosen the two screws on the bottom ( if you are planning to remove the rear cover go ahead and remove the bottom screws completely.) There is no need to remove the screws that hold the auxiliary leg bar.

6.The screws are out- HOW DO I GET THE COVER OFF!?!
There is a hidden locking tab located just beneath the mylar seal that warns you to disconnect the machine before servicing and to close the cover before operating the machine. It is located just to the right of the needle plate and directly over the seam that separates the front and back covers. Don't remove the seal just slice it with a razor blade or utility knife right along the seam, make sure you cut all the way through the seal.

Working from the needle plate opening, take a medium sized flat-bladed screw driver and slide it under the rear cover just behind the seam (see photo) carefully twist the blade in a manner that both separates and lifts the rear cover off the front cover- it takes quite a bit of force and it will let loose with a loud snap. After the locking tab is loose the front cover is easily separated and lifted off the chassis.

unlocking the case:
hronbo_0.jpg

a closeup of the tab on the front cover
hronbo_1.jpg

7.The rear cover is held on by three screws. There is one through the back at the handle recess, and there are two screws accessible from the front after the front cover is removed. Lower the presser foot lever, pull the screws and the rear cover will come off easy. Good luck with your repairs.

Nov 10, 2008 | Singer Featherweight II 117

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