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I have an LGBT microwave lmv2083sw. It has no power. Was on for about a second and died. Power at the plug is good. Checked the thermal fuse it ohms good. Are there any other fuses that could be bad? If so where are they located ? Do they test the same way as the line fuse?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9047 Answers

SOURCE: possible power surge?

Sounds like you got a surge which damaged the control panel. This is the most likely thing. We regularly repair these control panels nationwide for $32.50. A fuse is designed protect against excessive current. But if you have excessive voltage (a surge or spike), it can be so fast that it gets past the fuse and damages the control panel without actually blowing it. While the panel does have surge protection to keep that surge from actually destroying the control panel, the panel is damaged and will have to be repaired. If any power line connections were broken or are suspect, I hope you have contacted the power company. Either way, I would test any affected outlets to be sure the neutral and ground are present so the voltage output is within the proper range.

Posted on Nov 16, 2006

SOURCE: Follow up to: Unit shuts off (JVM1340WW002) and blows fuses

I have a similar problem in a GE Microwave. I metered the capacitor and it shows normal buildup of resistance over an extended period of time - leads me to believe it's in it's charging cycle. Following the assumption that the capacitor was good I check the triac assembly and found one of the two of them to be a dead short. I've ordered two new triac's to replace the two that are on the board and will replace them on the board - but should I again suspect the capacitor? After the microwave cuts out - the capacitor has no power retained, but I went under the assumption that the magnetron drained it since the power feed fuse blew. I found a slight discoloration on the control board (browning) around the on board relays, and checked them. One of the relays has a path to short - which I belive is controled by the monitor switch - but shows no sign of use - I have not yet figured out the browning of the board, but all the nearby components and traces check out. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Posted on Mar 28, 2007

  • 19 Answers

SOURCE: Ge Spacemaker microwave jvm240 wv Micro hood combo.

sounds to me like the magnatron has shorted out. i don't know of a way to test them unless you have some high dollar equipment. a continuity test prob wont tell you anything. what reading did you get on the cap when you tested it?

Posted on Jan 06, 2008

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9047 Answers

SOURCE: Microwave doesn't have any power, ** Display, **thing...

Nice touch with the diagram. Thanks!

The neutral line passes through the cavity thermostat, which may be open. In the schematic, it's left of the center bottom.

In the pictorial diagram, it's located just below where you added the note "120V OK". Its top half is cut off in the picture and it has blue and white wires attached.

Also, the low voltage (LV) transformer shows fuses in its primary and secondary, although one or both may be internal and inaccessible.

It may also be a problem on the control board, which we repair nationwide for only $39.95 postpaid. Feel free to reply back if you need further assistance.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Mar 10, 2008

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9047 Answers

SOURCE: Sharp Microwave Model R-1830: No power

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

It may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille or on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open oven thermal cutout (TCO) on the top of the oven cavity / body or an open thermal fuse on or above the magnetron.

These should read closed (virtually zero) on a continuity check.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it went dead or when you plugged it in or opened or closed the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

You can usually find exploded views and order parts by entering your model number here at the Sears parts site but the best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Oct 13, 2008

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No power


A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can probably find an exploded view by entering your FULL model number here: http://www.searspartsdirect.com

A full Sears/Kenmore model number usually has 3 digits, a dot, then 8 more digits, such as ###.########

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Jun 17, 2008 | Kenmore 62642 / 62644 / 62649 Microwave...

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