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Trying to remove water pump impeller from Suzuki RM125z. I've removed the retaining bolt and seal washer. Does it just pull off? Help, please!

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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dragonsthatk
  • 547 Answers

SOURCE: water leaking

some times you need two people one to hold the shaft the other to turn impeller on you need to put in a vice wraped in a towel and not to tight or break it off and replace it to

Posted on Feb 11, 2009

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  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: tring to take the pump face off the motor

You have to remove the back cover from the motor. Next loosen the capacitor. Put a 7/16" wrench on the shaft and the pump impeller will screw off by hand.

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

valiantma595
  • 176 Answers

SOURCE: how to remove impeller from motor to replace

If it's a separate shaft, it requires a puller tool, but first you have to remove a nut that holds the impeller to the shaft. If the shaft is part of the impeller, meaning that it is a one piece fabrication, then there is nothing you can do about it. You haven't even stated where does this impeller come from, a washing machine, a water pump, etc.

Posted on Sep 18, 2009

  • 106 Answers

SOURCE: How to remove impeller on pool pump to replace seal?

First, separate motor and pump. Remove back cover of motor. Drive shaft of motor either has a slot on end for a large screwdriver or a flat on it for a wrench.(usually 7/16) Hold shaft and unscrew impeller.

Posted on Feb 21, 2010

john224
  • 1378 Answers

SOURCE: Softub about 4 years old - I have a leaking water

Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.

Neither...it is threaded onto the motor shaft. Lock the shaft at the end opposite the impeller and turn it off counter clockwise.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

John

Posted on Apr 13, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks John - very helpful"

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1 Answer

NEED DIAGRAM FOR LOCATIONS OF CRANKSHAFT PULLY,OIL SLINGER AND SPRING.FOR 1983 MAZDA 2.2L DIESEL


Here is the procedure:-


  1. Remove setscrew from side of cylinder block.


  2. Remove oil pipe attaching bolts.


  3. Remove oil pump and strainer.
TIMING GEAR COVER



  1. Remove timing gear cover to case attaching bolts.


  2. Remove timing gear cover and gasket.

CAMSHAFT, CRANKSHAFT, IDLER & INJECTION PUMP GEARS



  1. Remove oil slinger and washers from crankshaft snout.
Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove crankshaft timing gear, Fig. 3.


  1. Position a clean rag between camshaft and idler gears, then remove cam gear lock bolt and washers.


  2. Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove cam gear from camshaft, Fig. 3.


  3. Remove idler gear to spindle retaining nuts and washers, then remove idler gear and spindle assemblies.


  4. Remove injection pump drive gear.


  5. Remove timing gear case to cylinder block attaching bolts, then the timing case.



CAMSHAFT




  1. Remove tappets from cylinder block.


  2. Remove camshaft thrust plate to cylinder block retaining bolts and washers, then pull camshaft from block.



PISTON & CONNECTING ROD




  1. Remove connecting rod bearing cap retaining nuts and bolts, then separate bearing cap from connecting rod.


  2. Using the wooden handle end of a hammer, push the piston and connecting rod assembly outward until piston rings clear cylinder bore. Remove piston and connecting rod assembly through top of cylinder block.


  3. To separate piston from connecting rod, remove piston pin retaining clips, then press pin from piston using a suitable driver.



CRANKSHAFT




  1. Remove rear oil seal cap retaining bolts, then the cap and seal.


  2. Remove main bearing cap to cylinder block retaining bolts, then the main bearing caps and thrust washers.


  3. Lift crankshaft from cylinder block.

Mar 26, 2015 | Mazda Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Have a Sta-Rite 1.5 hp Model #HMSF 1F - trying to get it apart to change seal- has been leaking and losing prime- four bolts hold the motor on- tried to separate there first but will not pull apart (maybe...


Remove impeller housing cover. Insert screwdriver carefully into back of motor to keep the armature from turning then unscrew impeller clockwise or opposite the direction of operation. Replace seal on impeller and pump housing. Lube seal with graphite. Replace impeller and housing cover. Remove screwdriver from motor. You should be good to go.

Sep 10, 2011 | Sta Rite 1 Hp Sta - Rite Abg Swimming Pool...

1 Answer

I have a proline 1.5hp pump need to replace the shaft seal. I can't seem to get the plastic impeller off. We use a screwdriver to hold the shaft screw and try to turn the impeller counter clockwise...


Keep trying - It is stuck and will likely break but you have to remove it to change the seal. It is not uncommon to need to replace the impeller when the seal fails since the water gets behind the impeller shaft and rusts the metal causing the impeller to bind. If you still cannot get it free pull the motor thru-bolts and lock the rotor once removed from the motor in a vice. Use a large pair of channel locks to break the impeller free...replace it if necessary.

John

May 15, 2011 | Waterway 1.5hp Hi Flo Above Ground Pool...

1 Answer

Pump seal is leaking water. I removed the screws holding the pump together. How do I remove the impellor to get at the seal?


This is from one of my previous posts, may be some extra steps, but should cover what you need... Turn off the electric first. Now split the pump in two by removing the large clamp or 4-6 bolts holding the two halves together. (not the 4 bolts holding the motor to seal plate, but the the bolts holding the seal plate to the seal plate housing). Once you remove the clamp or bolts, the motor with seal plate, diffuser, and Impeller can all be pulled back away from the pump. Then disconnect the electrical from the motor and you can pull the motor with the seal plate, and impeller all the way out and work on it. To get to the impeller, you need to remove the diffuser (plastic housing that goes around the impeller) usually by a series of 3 to 6 small screws. To remove the impeller you need to lock the motor and unscrew impeller. Depending on the motor, you remove a cap in the middle of the tail piece and hold with a wrench, or remove a cap that covers the whole end and grab the shaft with a wrench (usually 7/16") by sliding it under the thermal overload switch, or removing the capacitor for even easier access. Once you've locked the shaft, you can just unscrew impeller. If the impeller has a bolt or screw in the middle remove that first. this screw will be reverse thread so make sure you don't turn the wrong way and break or strip. If there is no screw, or after you've removed it, just spin the impeller off (standard thread). If you can't do it by hand and assuming you don't have an impeller wrench, be very careful and use a large pliers, pipe wrench, or strap wrench to loosen it. After that you unbolt the motor from the seal plate, pull the seal plate away from motor (this removes half the seal), and then pop the other half of the seal from the seal plate. Make sure to replace the shaft seal, and use a tiny bit of pool lube on the rubber parts when installing, but keep the white ceramic, and black graphite surfaces 100% free of any dirt, grease, etc while working with them. Installation is pretty much just the reverse. Install half the seal into the seal plate. Install the seal plate onto motor and bolt into place. Install other half of seal onto shaft. Screw impeller onto shaft and install screw (if one was there to start with) in center of impeller (reverse thread). install diffuser over impeller make sure it is centered and doesn't rub the impeller hub. Install new diffuser and valute o-rings. Hookup wiring before re-attaching to rest of pump. Clamp or bolt back together. Pour plenty of water into pot to prime and flip the motor on for a sec or two. Pour some more water. Install pot lid. You should be good to go. Keep in mind there are many different pumps and some variations to the above instructions, but the above should cover most situations. Hope this helps. If you need further assistance post a reply in the comments, and don't hesitate to leave a good thumb rating if you found this helpful. Thanks, and good Luck!

Oct 03, 2010 | Dynamo ABOVEGROUND POOL PUMP - 1.5HP -

1 Answer

How do I remove existing motor and replace it with a new one ? Hayward 2.0 hp # SP2615X20 Thank you


Turn off the electric first. Now split the pump in two by removing the large clamp or 4-6 bolts holding the two halves together. (not the 4 bolts holding the motor to seal plate, but the the bolts holding the seal plate to the seal plate housing). Once you remove the clamp or bolts, the motor with seal plate, diffuser, and Impeller can all be pulled back away from the pump. Then disconnect the electrical from the motor and you can pull the motor with the seal plate, and impeller all the way out and work on it. To get to the impeller, you need to remove the diffuser (plastic housing that goes around the impeller) usually by a series of 3 to 6 small screws. To remove the impeller you need to lock the motor and unscrew impeller. Depending on the motor, you remove a cap in the middle of the tail piece and hold with a wrench, or remove a cap that covers the whole end and grab the shaft with a wrench (usually 7/16") by sliding it under the thermal overload switch, or removing the capacitor for even easier access. Once you've locked the shaft, you can just unscrew impeller. If the impeller has a bolt or screw in the middle remove that first. this screw will be reverse thread so make sure you don't turn the wrong way and break or strip. If there is no screw, or after you've removed it, just spin the impeller off (standard thread). If you can't do it by hand and assuming you don't have an impeller wrench, be very careful and use a large pliers, pipe wrench, or strap wrench to loosen it. After that you unbolt the motor from the seal plate, pull the seal plate away from motor (this removes half the seal), and then pop the other half of the seal from the seal plate. Make sure to replace the shaft seal, and use a tiny bit of pool lube on the rubber parts when installing, but keep the white ceramic, and black graphite surfaces 100% free of any dirt, grease, etc while working with them. Installation is pretty much just the reverse. Install half the seal into the seal plate. Install the seal plate onto motor and bolt into place. Install other half of seal onto shaft. Screw impeller onto shaft and install screw (if one was there to start with) in center of impeller (reverse thread). install diffuser over impeller make sure it is centered and doesn't rub the impeller hub. Install new diffuser and valute o-rings. Hookup wiring before re-attaching to rest of pump. Clamp or bolt back together. Pour plenty of water into pot to prime and flip the motor on for a sec or two. Pour some more water. Install pot lid. You should be good to go. Keep in mind there are many different pumps and some variations to the above instructions, but the above should cover most situations. Hope this helps. If you need further assistance post a reply in the comments, and don't hesitate to leave a good thumb rating if you found this helpful. Thanks, and good Luck!

Oct 02, 2010 | Hayward 2HP Pool Pump Motor A O Smith...

1 Answer

How do I remove the pb460 booster pump in order to install the new one? Does the water have to be turned off from the pool?


You are trying to remove the pump so you can replace the impeller correct?
To remove the impeller you do not need to remove the whole pump. Turn off the electric first. Then just remove the several bolts and separate the back half from the front. Then disconnect the electrical from the motor and your can pull the motor with the seal plate, and impeller all the way out and work on it. To remove the impeller you need to lock the motor and unscrew impeller. Depending on the motor, you remove a cap in the middle of the tailpiece and hold with a wrench, or remove a cap that covers the whole end and grab the shaft with a wrench (usually 7/16") by sliding it under one of the components (not sure exact part off top of my head have to look at it) and then turning impeller. If the impeller has a bolt or screw in the middle remove that first. It should be reverse thread so make sure you don't turn the wrong way and break or strip. If there is no screw, or after you've removed it, just spin the impeller off (it should be counter clockwise standard thread). If you can't do it by hand and assuming you don't have an impeller wrench, be very careful and use a large pliers, pipe wrench, or strap wrench to loosen it. After that you unbolt the motor from the seal plate, pull the seal plate away from motor (this removes half the seal), and then pop the other half of the seal from the seal plate. Make sure replace the shaft seal, and use a tiny bit of pool lube on the rubber parts when installing, but keep the white and black ceramic surfaces 100% free of any dirt, grease, etc while working with them

Sep 17, 2010 | Polaris Pb460 Polaris Booster Pump...

1 Answer

How to install the motot?


Turn off the electric first. Now split the pump in two by removing the large clamp or 4-6 bolts holding the two halves together. (not the 4 bolts holding the motor to seal plate, but the the bolts holding the seal plate to the seal plate housing). Once you remove the clamp or bolts, the motor with seal plate and impeller and diffuser can all be pulled back away from the pump. You need to remove the diffuser (plastic housing that goes around the impeller) usually by a series of 3 to 6 small screws. Then disconnect the electrical from the motor and your can pull the motor with the seal plate, and impeller all the way out and work on it. To remove the impeller you need to lock the motor and unscrew impeller. Depending on the motor, you remove a cap in the middle of the tailpiece and hold with a wrench, or remove a cap that covers the whole end and grab the shaft with a wrench (usually 7/16") by sliding it under one of the components (not sure exact part off top of my head have to look at it) and then turning impeller. If the impeller has a bolt or screw in the middle remove that first. It should be reverse thread so make sure you don't turn the wrong way and break or strip. If there is no screw, or after you've removed it, just spin the impeller off (it should be counter clockwise standard thread). If you can't do it by hand and assuming you don't have an impeller wrench, be very careful and use a large pliers, pipe wrench, or strap wrench to loosen it. After that you unbolt the motor from the seal plate, pull the seal plate away from motor (this removes half the seal), and then pop the other half of the seal from the seal plate. Make sure to replace the shaft seal, and use a tiny bit of pool lube on the rubber parts when installing, but keep the white and black ceramic surfaces 100% free of any dirt, grease, etc while working with them. Installation is pretty much just the reverse. Install half the seal into the seal plate. Install the seal plate onto motor and bolt into place. Install other half of seal onto shaft. Screw impeller onto shaft and install screw (if one was there to start with) in center of impeller (reverse thread). install diffuser over impeller make sure it is centered and doesn't rub the impeller hub. Install new diffuser and valute o-rings. Hookup wiring before re-attaching to rest of pump. Clamp or bolt back together. Pour plenty of water into pot to prime and flip the motor on for a sec or two. Pour some more water. Install pot lid. You should be good to go. Keep in mind there are many different pumps and some variations to the above instructions, but the above should cover most situations. if something doesn't sound right let me know by commenting on this post, or sending email and I'd be glad to clarify. Good Luck!

Aug 03, 2010 | AO Smith Pool Pump Motor 1HP Square Flange...

1 Answer

Water pump removal


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
2.0L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant.
  1. Drain the engine cooling system.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove the lower radiator hose from the water pump.
If the lower radiator hose is hard to reach on the back of the water pump, remove the hose at the radiator and after the water pump is ready to be removed, pull the water pump away from the engine block until there is enough room to remove the hose from the pump.
  1. Lower the vehicle.
  2. Remove the accessory drive belt.
  3. Remove the timing belt covers and the timing belt as outlined in this Section.
  4. Remove the four water pump retaining bolts.
  5. Remove the water pump.
To install:
  1. Thoroughly clean all sealing surfaces.
  2. Install a new water pump gasket and the water pump onto the cylinder block.
  3. Tighten the retaining bolts to 12-15 ft. lbs. (16-20 Nm).
  4. Reinstall the timing belt and the timing belt covers as outlined in this Section.
  5. Reinstall the accessory drive belt.
  6. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  7. Reinstall the lower radiator hose.
  8. Lower the vehicle.
  9. Fill the engine cooling system.
  10. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
  11. Start the engine and top off the coolant as necessary. Check for leaks.


2.5L Engine

Before continuing with this procedure, be sure three new water pump retaining bolts (W701544) are available. Due to their torque-to-yield design, the bolts stretch and cannot be reused.
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant.
  1. Drain the engine cooling system.
  2. Remove the water pump pulley shield.
  3. Remove the water pump drive belt.
  4. Remove the water pump inlet and outlet hoses from the water pump.
  5. Remove the three water pump to left cylinder head retaining bolts.
  6. Remove the water pump and water pump housing from the vehicle.
  7. Remove the water pump to water pump housing retaining bolts and separate the water pump from the water pump housing.
To install:
  1. Thoroughly clean all sealing surfaces.
  2. Install the water pump to the water pump housing using a new gasket and install the retaining bolts. Tighten the retaining bolts to 16-18 ft. lbs. (22-25 Nm).
  3. Position the water pump and water pump housing and install three new torque-to-yield retaining bolts into the left cylinder head.
  4. Tighten the new retaining bolts to 11-13 ft. lbs. (15-18 Nm), then rotate the retaining bolts 85-95 degrees.
  5. Reinstall the water pump inlet and outlet hoses to the water pump.
  6. Reinstall the water pump drive belt.
  7. Reinstall the water pump shield.
  8. Fill the engine cooling system.
  9. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
  10. Start the engine and top off the coolant as necessary. Check for leaks.


Hope helps (remember comment and rated this).

Jul 07, 2010 | 1996 Mercury Mystique

1 Answer

How do i remove the water pump on a 1999 suzuki rm 250


hi,drop the oil, remove the right hand casing. undo the water pump casing. remove the impeller (10mm bolt) dont lose the copper/ally washer. draw the drive shaft from the inside of the casing. remove the bearing. remove the seals, keep note which way round the seals are. they should be opposite. one keeps oil in and the other keeps the water out of the oil. if there are any score marks on the drive shaft,replace it , as it will only leak again. to put it back together, just reverse process. hope this helps. kev.

Mar 08, 2010 | 2005 Suzuki RM 250

1 Answer

Water pump is leaking on my 2001 Yamaha YZF 426 motorcycle.


First you remove the four 8mm bolt that attach the water pump cover to the side cover, the lowest bolt will drain the coolant. next you remove the coolant pipe with one 8mm bolt. The water pump cover like any part that has been in place for years may need some force to remove and that is why you will find two tabs around the outside of the pump cover for prying it off.

Once you have the cover off the impeller unscrews by way of a built in 10mm nut. This nut is right hand threaded and is removable by rotating it counter clockwise with preferably a 6 point socket as a 12 point socket may round the nut sides since the impeller and built in nut are made of aluminum.

To replace the twin seals (one for water/coolant and one for oil) you must remove the engine side cover from the motor and pull the impeller shaft out from the engine side of the cover. After the shaft has been removed the bearing is pulled out with a bearing puller or sometimes it can be removed by pushing it out from the outside in with a makeshift driver but the bearing can be damaged by this method and it is not recommended. The old seals can now be pulled out or pushed out from the opposite side.

To replace the new seals you must drive them in perpendicular to the impeller shaft with the manufacture markings to the inside. The water seal is installed from the outside and the oils seal from the inside.

There is a tool used for installing the seals called a seal driver but you could make one in a pinch. The seal driver makes contact with the outside diameter of the seal where it is solid and has a metal core. The inside diameter is soft and flexible and should not be used to push the seal in place however it can be used to keep the seal driver centered over the outer diameter and to keep the seal moving in a strait line perpendicular to the impeller shaft.

Once the new seals are in place they should be greased with some lithium soap based grease.

Install the bearing and reassemble the impeller shaft then you are ready to reassemble the engine side cover and water pump housing but make sure you spin the water pump impeller slowly as you install the engine side cover as the impeller shaft is driven off the engine shaft behind it and the shaft needs to be aligned in order for it to fall in place (do not try to force the cover on).

Apr 06, 2009 | 2002 Yamaha YZ 426 F

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