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Oven not heating. I have a KitchenAid Pro Line Dual Fuel Range

Model: KDRP463LSS, Serial No: XP3506943. The gas cook top is functioning normally. The digital oven display is functioning normally, and not displaying any error code. The oven light when set to Automatic comes on and is functioning normally. The oven heating elements do not turn on in any cooking function selected. I reset the circuit breaker, got the normal PF power failure code, but was able to reset the clock display as normal. Still no heat in any cook mode. The failure was first detected while preheating the oven in normal Bake mode when after 30 minutes the oven had started to heat but then suddenly quit. I allowed the oven to cool over night and from this point on the no heat condition persists. I'm extremely handy when it comes to fixing home appliances, but without a service and repair guide I'm not educated enough to proceed any further. Have any of you experienced this malfunction with this model range?

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire electric range

is there voltage going to the erc (electronic range control)?

Posted on Feb 09, 2008

  • 112 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire Smooth Top Range/Oven stopped working

Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Cheers
Dave

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

duby1990
  • 367 Answers

SOURCE: Power Failure results in no oven or digital display.

The low voltage has ruined the CCU (clock) YOu will need to replace it. You can order the part via model # on sears.com

Posted on Feb 09, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Range RF315PXDW

It sounds like you are missing part of your input voltage.

I would take a voltage reading at the receptacle and confirm you are reading 220-240VAC. Some homes have the 220 service receptacles wired up with two 120 volt breakers to make up your 220 service. If your home is configured this way, you may have one of the breakers tripped. Or, the receptacle itself may be bad. If you confirm you have the correct voltage at the receptacle, your power cord may be bad.

The reason the clock and display will still appear to work is because the clock only uses 110-120VAC and is tapped off the source voltage. The surface burners and the oven heating elements, however, require the full 220 service.

If you are confused by this explanation, please post back and let me know. Hopefully, this is a problem that will not require any parts or a service call. If the power cord is bad, you can purchase a replacement at any hardware store. I hope this information is helpful.

Posted on Dec 19, 2009

Testimonial: "I will definitely check both the 120v wires in receptacle feeding power to the stove. The breaker in the house breaker box is a single 60amp breaker. "

FixinFax
  • 3085 Answers

SOURCE: Range bake,broil,oven warm-up,oven light do not work

Yes the control panel is bad

Posted on Feb 24, 2010

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