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Hi there, trying to track down a crisper drawer for a Danby DF9400W (preferably on Canada). I've tried Danby directly, but they have nothing even matching that model #. I know i'm not crazy!

Danby Designer apartment fridge. DF9400W

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 89 Answers

SOURCE: water in bottom of fridge and in crisper drawers

the defrost drain in the freezer is clogged with ice.
empty the food from the freezer, and put through a defrost. you might have to help the fridge defrost with a hair dryer. you may also have to remove the rear panel (inside the freezer) or pending on the model to bottom panel of the freezer.. (usually held in by 1/4" hex screws.)
melt all the ice, and be sure that the drain is clear, and it should work.

Posted on May 26, 2009

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localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer works fridge not cooling on a Danby Designer fridge

HI, you will need to inspect the compressor to make sure it is cycling in intervals. if the compressor is not cycling, this will confirm compressor failure. The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the vents between the freezer and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In most refrigerators the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative resulting in the vents becoming stuck open or closed.

Inspect the vents to determine what is preventing the free flow of air. An overcrowded refrigerator or freezer may be the cause. In other cases the vents may need to be cleaned or ice melted away. To remove a build up of ice, use a hair dryer set to "low". Using a higher setting may damage the freezer. CAUTION: Do not let melting ice drip onto the hair dryer. In some models, the vent is located under the temperature control console. The housing either snaps into place or is held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring. A freezer vent control may also have to be removed to access the vent. In some freezer-on-top models, it may be necessary to remove the floor of the freezer to inspect for obstructions.

The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant. Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.

Another inspection point will be the door seals. This is a easy way for the cold air to escape from your unit as well. thsi will cause the temperature to rise. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance. This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper temperature. To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal. Replace the seal if the test was unsuccessful.

Next will be the door switch. The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, is controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Be sure to confirm evaporator fan function as well. if the fan is defective, it will prevent proper cooling as well.

This will conclude the most common issue with a under preforming unit. I would advise to check all the above and, if the unit continues to not cool after all the above adjustments are made, i will recommend replacing the cold control device and thermostat.

Posted on Jul 30, 2009

bobicehouse
  • 1524 Answers

SOURCE: Trying to find the bottom

Call Bi Coastal Appliance Parts @ 1-800-673-1262 give complete make, model, and serial number.

Posted on Mar 14, 2011

  • 257 Answers

SOURCE: Danby Designer All Fridge

Yes it is located in the refrigerator on the bottom in the back. I assume you know how to clear it, Hot water plus towel to soak up excess water should take several tries of very hot water until it clears. Good luck

Posted on May 26, 2011

Testimonial: "I don't know how to clear it. I have just been reading that you have to clean it.... my fault not clear enough in question."

mastatech
  • 478 Answers

SOURCE: In my side-by-side, everything in

You have a defrost problem. You'll need to give me a model number. However, if you can locate the defrost timer ,usually in fridge side upper part with the other controls you will advance ,turn wheel till it clicks into defrost. Then you will want to examine the defrost heater and the terminator if they are fine replace timer. If either check open with an ohm meter replace that part, most likely a defrost tube which is like a light bulb, it only take two more screws and plugging in two wires to replace abuot a hundred dollars for both the heater and terminator which I also recommend replacing.

Posted on Aug 20, 2011

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Danby Refrig DFFC1WDB, two years old, in my vacation home that I visit one weekend a month. Lights flashing, power cycled (after req'd 5 mins). Discovered coils were packed with ice. See below: 1.) Danby Refrigerator DFFC1WDB, about two years old, in my vacation home that I visit one weekend a month 2.) Never defrosted it manually before (i.e. turned off and left to defrost) 3.) For some time I noticed the light inside the fridge was flashing, but the refrigerator seemed to be cooling okay and the manual says nothing about what the flashing light means. I attributed it to a power failure and the flashing stops once the unit is unplugged and plugged back in (power cycled) after 5 minutes or so. 4.) This visit I noticed the flashing lights again and that the freezer was cold (it was heavily loaded) but fridge was barely cool. I power cycled the fridge (allowing 5 minutes) and the flashing stopped but I was concerned about the issue and threw out some food. 5.) I unplugged the unit again and removed everything from the freezer. I noticed a thick coating of ice on the freezer back wall. I used a hair dryer to melt this coating of ice and then realized that the coils behind this wall must be covered in ice. I removed the back wall exposing the coils and discovered that I was correct: The coils were completely covered/packed with ice, so I greatly sped up the melting process with the hair dryer. After all, I had food sitting in coolers with ice and wanted to return it to the freezer and fridge asap. 6.) Once all the ice was gone I left the freezer open for a while for the coils and assembly to cool (since I had used a hair dryer to melt away the ice pack) 7.) I set the freezer and fridge to their coldest settings and plugged it back in. The lights do not flash when I plugged it back in. The compressor (I assume) ran for a while (the fan in the freezer ran also), and during this time I heard the unit lightly buzzing (with life), and then it stopped. But it seemed to have quite a way to go when it stopped and the freezer and fridge were not nearly cold enough at that point. I surmised that it might be entering one of its periodic defrosting periods, but after quite a while of waiting it still hadn't started running again so I power cycled the unit again and again the compressor/fan ran for a while and then stopped. It just doesn't seem to be starting on its own unless I power cycle it (waiting the required 5 minutes before plugging it back in.) At this point I don't have confidence that it is cooling well enough to keep my food fresh (and frozen). 8.) What do you think could be wrong? It certainly seems reasonable that the part/system responsible for periodically defrosting the coils may have failed. But since the unit is completely defrosted now, why does the unit only run for a short time after unplugging/replugging and never run again?

Jun 10, 2018 | Danby Refrigerators

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