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Whirlpool wed6600vwo- Will only operate at full temperature feels hotter than normal temp. Cannot operate at warmer or no heat setting.

Just repaired control board relay so unit would work again as far as motor turning on. This problem was happening before board was repaired relay connection resoldered.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

fanny
  • 146 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool AFG 7080 Freezer - Relay noises

It sure sounds like you have a problem with the board. It may just be a dry joint or a faulty component. Normally one would replace the board.

Posted on Nov 03, 2007

  • 1035 Answers

SOURCE: oven temp gets hotter than control indicates.

Alot of the thermostats are adjustable and can be recalibrated but when they act like this, it is best to replace them. It is just a matter of time before it quit all together. Electronic units are some what different.
Let me know what you do and I'll give you a hand in getting it going.

Posted on May 09, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: blowing hot air all the time

There is a door that opens to the heater core.When the vacum control in the dash gets old the diaphram gets to flimsy to close one port so it puts vacum to all ports.Therefore there is not enough pull to engage the vacum motor to move the trap door.Change the switch in the dash. Check to make sure that there isn't an obstructing object in front of the door before you buy a new switch

Posted on Jun 02, 2009

  • 333 Answers

SOURCE: 2005 highlander heater problem

I'm glad I could help. I'm reposting the solution below in case anyone needs it in the future. Please be sure to rate it for me!

Pull the temperature knob off and verify the thin 12mm nut is installed and tight behind it. I have seen several of these loosen up allowing the knob to turn but intermittently have no effect on temperature.

Posted on Sep 11, 2009

  • 1218 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigerator/freezer stopped cooling during a heat wave

Good day,
Turning the thermostat to a warmer setting should not have caused the machine to quit cooling. Actually, the engineers give you far less leeway than you might think.
The controls are more in a class of fine tuning, otherwise people would be getting themselves into trouble. The manufacturers simply design the warm and cold parameters in a fairly narrow range.
The best setting is normal. When away, the machine will run far less simply because of no door openings. Opening a door lets in large amounts of air every time it's done, which is where your cost to run it exists.
Two things. One, if the temp in the kitchen exceeded 90 degrees for any length of time, you are operating it beyond it's design range, however two, it sounds as if the thermostat hung up, causing your issue. You may want to have it replaced, but it would be useless to call anyone when it's performing normally.
There is no test on thermostats other than by observing their action when the machine is not operating properly.

Posted on Jul 08, 2010

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Electric dryer getting way too hot


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3-5 ACCESS TO THE BLOWER WHEEL OR THERMOSTATS

To get to the blower wheel, remove the back of the dryer.

The blower wheel is under the bottom of the lint screen duct to your left, as you look at the back of the dryer.

The operating thermostats are at the blower wheel outlet.

In electric models, the hi-temperature cutout thermostat is mounted to the heat riser.

3-6 TEMPERATURE CONTROLS AND HI-TEMP SAFETIES

These clothes dryer machines use operating thermostats to control the temperature inside the drum, and hi-limit thermostats to prevent overheating of the dryer drum.. Many machines also have extra temperature controls, such as bias thermostats and heaters, hi-temperature cutoffs, and thermal fuses.

Bias thermostats are just like regular operating thermostats, except that they are mounted inside a bias heater. When the bias heater is energized, it generates a small amount of heat, which causes the operating thermostat to open sooner, keeping the dryer drum cooler inside. Thus a bias heater allows a single operating thermostat to act like both a hi-temp and a lo-temp operating thermostat.

A thermal fuse is found on the blower outlet, right next to the operating thermostat(s.) This fuse will blow when too high a temperature is sensed at the outlet; usually when one of the operating thermostats has failed. If it blows, the motor may not start, or you may get no heat (no voltage to the burner.)

A thermal cut-off is mounted on the clothes dryer heater box. It is a back-up for the hi-limit thermostat. Whenever you replace it, you should replace the hi-limit thermostat, too. A high-temperature condition causes it to open, an overheated grounded heat element may also cause it to open.

Dec 01, 2013 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My Maytag stove. I know it's normal to feel heat from the vent on the stove top when the oven is on. But the temp of the heat escaping is sooo much hotter than it used to be. Do I need a fix ? Model...


The heat from your vent should be a little lower than what the oven is set at. So I doubt if you have a problem but you might want to take some temperature measurements to see.

Sep 07, 2011 | Ovens

1 Answer

I just bought a 2000 4x4 Dodge Durango. The temperature gauge reads properly at about half way, but the heat blows air that is not really hot even though I have the heat at maximum warm. What is the...


try feeling your heater hoses going from the engine to the heater core. they should be hot at operating temperature. If one is hotter than the other noticably it would indicate a restriction in the core most likely. A partially stuck thermostat could also cause loss of heat but you say the temp is normal. Start with checking hose temperature if they are both on the cool side compared to the radiator hose then further diagnostics are necessary. hope this helps. Keep in touch.

Feb 17, 2011 | 2000 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

2006 grand prix heater only blows cold air. both heater hoses are hot blower motor works fine.


Sounds like the temperature blend door actuator may be bad or the vacuum hose to it is disconnected.

Poor Heater System Performance CAUTION
Check all fluid levels and adjust as needed, before operating vehicle for extended periods at idle.
  1. Start the engine.
  2. Idle the engine until the thermostat opens (upper radiator hose will be hot) Is the engine at normal operating temperature (approx. 200° F)? If yes, go to the next step. If no, go to step 16.
  3. Set the mode selector to FLOOR mode.
  4. Set the heater control selector to the warmest temperature setting.
  5. Set the blower speed the lowest setting.
  6. Carefully feel the inlet and outlet heater hoses at the heater core. Is the inlet heater hose significantly hotter than the outlet heater hose? If yes, go to step 14. If no, go to the next step.
  7. Set the mode selector to PANEL mode.
  8. Select the maximum blower speed.
  9. Select the warmest temperature setting.
  10. Place a thermometer into the center I/P PANEL air outlet and affix a second thermometer to the heater core outlet heater hose.
  11. Record the temperature at the center I/P PANEL air outlet and at the heater core outlet heater hose. Are the two temperature readings about equal? If yes, go to the next step. If no, go to step 13.
  12. Inspect and repair the cowl, cowl area, recirculation door, and the HVAC evaporator/heater core case for cold air leaks. Repair any problems found, go to step 17.
  13. Inspect the temperature door operation. Repair any problems found, go to step 17.
  14. Turn OFF the engine. Back-flush the heater core. Start the engine. Select the FLOOR mode and the lowest blower speed. Select the warmest temperature setting. Feel the temperature of the inlet and outlet heater hoses at the heater core. Is the inlet heater hose feel significantly hotter than the outlet heater hose? If yes, go to the next step. If no, go to step 17.
  15. Replace the heater core. When the repair is completed, go to step 17.
  16. Check for low engine temperature problems, Repair or replace as needed, go to step 17.
  17. Operate the system in order to verify the repair. If the system operates properly, the repair is complete. If the heater still does not work properly, repeat the entire procedure.

Nov 19, 2010 | 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix

1 Answer

Whirlpool refrigerator getting hot on frame where doors close.


Hi,

Welcome to FixYa.

I`ll start by letting you know first the heat between the doors is normal...to a degree, and done by design to help prevent moisture along the "breaker strip"/divider.

If all else appears fine, temp. Ok, fans running, no significant frost build up on freezer back wall, it's likely nothing to be concerned about.

**Just be sure the condensor fan isn't jammed and still turning.** The fan at the back next to the compressor.

The amount of heat can be determined by several factor's such as,

1) temperature setting - lower ( colder ) the temperature is set the more the run time the hotter the strip.

2) The ambient temperature - hotter the environment the more the unit runs to compensate, hence the hotter the strip.

3) The amount of "fresh" content added to the unit ( especially freezer section if unfrozen items added ) - new items add a lot of warmth thus demanding the unit to run more to remove this heat (btu`s or british thermal unit`s )causing the strip to be hotter.

4) Build up of dust & dirt on the condensor coils - this also causes the unit to run excessively which in turn makes for more heat on this strip.

These are all things which can and do determine the amount of heat between the doors.
Another factor to always consider is of course If it is hot where you live the unit may just be running more to compensate as with other factors I mentioned.

Hope this answer's your question and let me know if I can assist you further.


Thank's for coming to "fixya" and good luck moving forward.

Please take a second to rate the info provided here.

macmarkus :)

Sep 02, 2010 | Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

The rear heater does not heat up when switch is on


Troubleshooting by Symptom Poor Heater System Performance
  1. Start the engine. Allow the engine to idle. Does the engine reach normal operating temperature? If yes, go to the next step. If no, go to step 8.
  2. Allow the engine to idle. Select the FLOOR mode. Select the minimum blower speed and the warmest temperature setting. Feel the temperature of the inlet and outlet heater hoses at the heater core. Does the inlet heater hose feel warmer than the outlet heater hose? If yes, go to step 6. If no, go to the next step.
  3. Install a thermometer into the center I/P PANEL air outlet. Secure a thermometer to the heater core outlet heater hose. Select the PANEL mode. Select the maximum blower speed. Select the warmest temperature setting. Record the temperature at the center I/P PANEL air outlet and at the heater core outlet heater hose. Are the two temperature readings about equal? If yes, go to the next step. If no, go to step 5.
  4. Inspect and repair the cowl, recirc door, and the HVAC module case for cold air leaks. If problems are found and repaired, go to step 9.
  5. Inspect the temperature door operation. Perform any necessary repairs. When repairs are made, go to step 9.
  6. Turn OFF the engine. Backflush the heater core. Start the engine. Select the FLOOR mode and the lowest blower speed. Select the warmest temperature setting. Feel the temperature of the inlet and outlet heater hoses at the heater core. Does the inlet heater hose feel warmer than the outlet heater hose? If yes, go to the next step. If no, go to step 9.
  7. Replace the heater core. When the repair is complete, go to step 9.
  8. Repair the low engine temperature concern. When the repair is complete, go to step 9.
  9. Operate the system in order to verify the repair. If the system operates properly, the repair is complete. If the heater still does not work properly, repeat the entire procedure.
Insufficient Defrosting
  1. Start the engine, select the DEFROST mode, and select the maximum blower speed. Does sufficient air flow from the defroster outlets? If yes, go to the next step. If there is insufficient airflow, go to step 9.
  2. Measure the engine operating temperature. Does the engine reach normal operating temperature? If yes, go to the next step. If the engine does not reach normal operating temperature, go to step 7.
  3. Select the minimum blower speed. Select the warmest temperature setting. Feel the temperature of the inlet and outlet heater hoses at the heater core. Does the inlet heater hose feel warmer than the outlet heater hose? If yes, go to step 10. If the hose temperature is not right, go to the next step.
  4. Test the operation of the A/C compressor clutch. Does the A/C compressor clutch engage? If yes, go to the next step. If the compressor clutch does not engage, go to step 6.
  5. Repair or replace the A/C compressor clutch. When the repair is complete, go to step 13.
  6. Repair the A/C compressor clutch concern and determine if the A/C system is operating within specifications. If yes, go to step 8. If no, go to step 11.
  7. Repair the low engine temperature concern. When the repair is complete, go to step 13.
  8. Inspect for correct operation of the recirculation door. If the door is operating correctly, go to step 13. If the door is not operating properly, go to step 12.
  9. Repair the air delivery concern. When the repair is complete, go to step 13.
  10. Repair the heating concern. When the repair is complete, go to step 13.
  11. Repair the A/C performance concern. When the repair is complete, go to step 13.
  12. Repair the recirculation door concern. When the repair is complete, go to step 13.
  13. Operate the system in order to verify the repair. If the system is operating properly, the procedure is complete. If the system is still not providing proper defrosting, repeat the entire test
. Noise from the HVAC Module
  1. Start the engine. Cycle through all blower speeds, A/C mode settings and temperature control settings. Determine the type of noise, whether it is a scraping, popping, ticking, clicking, chirping or groaning, or an air rush or whistle. Is a scrape or pop noise evident when selecting modes or temperature settings? If yes, go to step 5. If no, go to the next step.
  2. Is a tick/click, chirping, groaning or scraping noise present, but decreases as blower motor speed is decreased? If yes, go to step 5. If no, go to the next step.
  3. Is an air rush/whistle noise evident in all modes but not all temperature settings? If yes, go to step 5. If no, go to the next step.
  4. Is an air rush/whistle noise evident only in defrost or floor mode? If yes, go to step 5. If no, examine for other sounds, repeat step 1.
  5. Remove the I/P trim pad. When complete, go to the next step.
  6. Inspect the airflow doors for proper operation and the ducts for obstructions or foreign materials. Were any of these conditions found? If yes, go to step 9. If no, go to the next step.
  7. Inspect the mode and temperature doors and seals for warping or cracking. Are the doors in normal condition? If yes, go to step 9. If no, go to the next step.
  8. Replace the appropriate door and/or seals. When the repair is complete, go to step 10.
  9. Remove any obstructions or foreign material found. When the repair is complete, go to step 10.
  10. Install the I/P trim pad. When complete, go to the next step.
  11. Operate the system to verify the repair. If system operates without noise, the repair is complete. If noise still exists, repeat the entire procedure.

Jul 21, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Astro

3 Answers

My heater takes a long time to warm up


You may need a new thermostat. They are cheap and easy to install on a blazer. They sell different temp ones. ask for a higher temp thermostat if you want warmer heat. Also it would be a good idea to get the cooling system flushed. That helps a lot.

Dec 29, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

What is the normal water temperature accuracy of a setting?


You are correct, the pipes have been used and they retain the warmer temp and thus they don't cool the water by the time it gets to the faucet.

Mar 21, 2009 | Rheem Tankless Hot Water Heater...

4 Answers

Goodman Air Conditioner not heating well...


Heat pumps in cold climates suffer a number of limitations stemming from the fact that they are designed for air-conditioning applications. As climates become cooler and heating becomes more of the primary HVAC function, one may find that conventional heat pumps lose capacity and do not satisfy the load of the conditioned space. In colder temperatures, a conventional system’s need to defrost can further detract from heating performance. The use of resistance heat or fossil fuels to supplement or replace the vapor cycle. The additional use of supplemental heat to temper cold air blowing into the space during defrosts. As it gets colder outside, the delivery air temperatures inside begin to fall when no supplemental heat is being used. Supply air temperatures that are warmer than the return temperatures add heat to a space, but discomfort occurs when these supply temperatures drop below skin temperature. The air movement can feel cool or even cold. While the heat pump may be operating exactly as intended,the consumer will desire a more comfortable environment.

Jan 18, 2009 | Goodman CKL49AR49 Air Conditioner

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