Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Two reasons, first would be that the burner is dirty and needs cleaning. Second is that the thermocouple is either faulty or incorrectly installed. By this I mean that it might be slightly too far away from the flame to be able to conduct sufficient heat to keep the thermocouple open. This can happen when you park or drive and the rv is at different angles. So the flame does not heat the thermocouple enough and it shuts off the supply.
Posted on Mar 12, 2009
Check the burner assembly. 1 screw, remove the sheet metal cover and clean it. The burner collects rust. This is the likely. Other issues would be the gas pressure usually checked with a manometer. Should 11" of water column. If your furnace works good then the gas pressure is probably ok. Also could have a faulty ignitor which sends a miliamp signal back to the circuit board. Check the burner first, after that leave the cover off and turn the fridge on. Watch the ingnitor attempt to lite the burner. Be sure the spark is going to the burner and not shorting out on the sheet metal it is mounted in. If it is shorting to the frame the ignitor needs replacing.
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Posted on Mar 31, 2009
does the flame ever got out if not ,the tsat is not the problem. It could be that the flame is not hot enough or the flue has a restriction
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
I had a similar problem. The flue would get hot and the cooling tubes
would get "warm". The refrig would get a LITTLE cool but nothing to be
of any help.
I solved it though...it turns out there is a "flue baffle" (twisty little metal thing) that is supposed to hang in the inside of the baffle. It hangs from a screw found on top of the baffle and it is supposed to hang down.
The screw that held mine was corroded and flue baffle had fallen into the baffle and landed on top of the burner.
I ended up fishing the flue baffle out of the top of the baffle with a coat hanger, then rehanging it using a new screw. That solved my problem.
Not sure if this will work for you or not but good luck.
By the way, you can find an owner's manual with a diagram showing the flue, the flue baffle, and the piece of metal holding it here:
Look on p.9, figure 9. Item C is the flue baffle and the wire holding it. Item B is the screw that was corroded on mine, and ended up dropping the baffle down to the bottom of the flue.
Below is a link to some generic directions on solving fridge-related problems. I found it to be VERY useful.
Posted on Jul 28, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
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1. No operation - no panel lights: DC Volts
Upper Circuit Board
Lower Circuit Board
I would start with the DC volatage and track it back until you lose it. Most of the time it does end up being the lower circuit board though.
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