The wires going to the voltage regulator keep burning up.

Sounds like your voltage regulator is faulty and over charging your battery and cooking it.

Have an auto electrician check the voltage charge on your bike - it should be a relative cheap fix and will stop you replacing batteries

Most front wheel vibrations are the result of lack of maintenance. Keep the tires inflated properly to keep the tires from cupping. This bike has tapered wheel bearings, front and rear. The bearings must be lubricated at 10,000 miles and whenever new tires are installed. Don't take the bike to the car wash to wash it. You will blow the grease out of the wheel bearings with the high pressure.The bearings will then rust and pit, causing them to need replacement.
Nothing lasts forever, but most EVO voltage regulator problems start when the regulator comes partially unplugged from the stator at the engine case. When partially unplugged, the AC voltage from the stator will arc to the pins at the regulator connection, causing the pins to burn away. This can fry the regulator and cause the battery not to charge. Just regularly make sure the regulator stays plugged to the stator and you should have miles of troublefree riding.
I own a '91 bagger I bought new. I've only replaced 2 regulators on this bike, and both were because they came partially unplugged from the stator.

Charge and load test the battery. If the battery sat dead for as little as two weeks , it could be sulfated and no good. If it is a Yuasa battery it only has a 6 month warranty , grab your receipt and race back to the dealer. They will charge and load test it three times . If it does not pass the load test you will get a new battery if it is still under warranty. Grab your voltmeter and unplug the plug with three yellow wires that is coming out of your stator. The three yellow wires coming from the stator should have continuity with each other and no continuity between any of the yellow wires and ground. That is the test for the stator. If the stator is good , the battery is good , then you probably have a bad regulator/rectifier. I suspect you just have a bad battery.

The stator or the voltage regulator is bad. more likely it is the Voltage Regulator.

Hi and welcome to FixYA,

Two possibilities:

• rectifier / regulator combo (most likely);
• corroded, burned, loose connection from the stator to the regulator (likely);
• faulty stator (least likely).

The stator would be producing relatively high AC voltage while revving the bike. The stator output AC voltage are fed to the rectifier / regulator through 3 white wires. Check calls for testiing for the presence of the AC voltage on any pairing of the white wires before and after the connector before the voltage regulator. Check on the regulator calls for checking the battery voltage when revving the bike (14.5 VDC).

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

If you're going through regulators that often I would suggest going after the stator. Make sure it's not grounding out on the chassis. Find the 3 yellow or white wires that are connected to the regulator. using a meter in OHMS ( looks like the horseshoe ) with the bike off check wire one (red ) to wire 2 ( black ) then wire one ( red ) to 3 (black ), then 2 (red ) to 1 ( black ) and 2 ( red ) to 3 ( black ) , then pick one ( red ) and black to the chassis, motor, ground. somewhere metal on the bike. The first series of tests you should get some sort of numbers, ( which should be somewhat close in numbers ) When you go to ground, Chassis you should get no numbers, OFL, OL, or the horseshoe sign if you get numbers there, the stator is bad and your transmitting ac voltage to the chassis.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_5bac37c3cb991fdb

I have a '07 C90T.
I have just replaced my stator. I replaced the reg/rectifier earlier this year. I replaced the battery one year ago in October.

I firmly believe what started the problem. Two guys that I told I didn't need help, but they pressured me to let them help. They hooked a battery backwards to my bike. A lot of people believe that's what shortened the life of the rectifier and stator.

But keep this in mind. The connections for the regulator/rectifier are not waterproof. I had done a lot of rainy riding and I first found a burnt connector on the discharge side of the reg/rect. My mechanic told me I needed to replace the reg/rect so I did but I soldered the wires and made them waterproof. I didn't do this on the stator side of the reg/rect and a few months later, when the bike quit charging again, I found that connector burnt, so I cut it out and soldered and waterproofed it.

Two days after we got back from a 700 mile round trip to Red River, NM, my bike quit charging again. This time though, I have a voltage meter on the bike, so I was aware of the problem before the bike could strand me someplace. Get one of those btw.
When I checked the old stator after I replaced it, I found the stator good but the pulse signal generator bad. It's required that you replace both btw. You have to, they are joined at the grommet.

Ok well, the battery cost $60 last year and I replaced it myself.
The reg/rect cost $140 through my mechanic and I replaced it myself.
Got the stator online for $173 shipped and they advertise a better stator that puts out 20% more power.
Not counting little things like solder, tape, heatshrink and such, I'm out a little less than $375 on my charging system.
I hope it's a done deal.
Again, some think the problems began when the battery was hooked up wrong, but I lean to believe the sub-standard Suzuki connections may have a hand in this.
Hope this helps. . . Joe

Either you have a dead short in your wireing or your battery is not charging fully. Use a volt meter your battery will have 12 volts start the bike and it should read 13 plus then take it up to 2000 rpm above idle anyway it should read 14 plus. If you dont have these numbers then you have a stator or regulator problem or both. You may be geting a slight charge when running but not enough to keep the battery peaked out.

I am the proud new 2nd owner of a red 2000 Mille. Love the bike always wanted one deal of a lifetime came up so I bought it. The bike has 18,000 miles on it. I checked the wiring from the stator/alternator and it has been upgraded to 12 gauge wire from the stator to the voltage regulator. BUT, the wiring mod had not been done, so I thought, great!, I'll do the mod myself. Went home last night and ran 2 12 gauge wires from the red black wires at the connector to the 30 amp fuse. I didn't cut the old wires, just spliced two new ones in, as per bossbobs directions. Then I ran 2 12 gauge wires from the red blue wires at the connector to the battery negative. Turned on the bike, and I had 14.54 volts at the battery...WOO HOO!! couldn't check the 4k rpm voltage as it was late and the bike is loud. Went for a ride this morning, checked the voltage before the ride and it was 14.5 at idle and 14 at 4k rpm. NICE! went for a 15 minute ride and checked the voltage when I got home.... 12.5 at idle and 12.1 at 4k rpm....DAMN IT!! I take it this is a heat issue. The regulator gets hot to the touch, but not so hot that you can't touch it...yellow wires from the stator aren't warm at all... before the wiring mod, I had approximately 13.2 at idle and 12.5 at 4k rpm.... tired voltage regulator I hope????, cause I want to get bikepainter's upgraded aftermarket regulator.... Could everyone give me your input please??? not a very good pic of the new beasty,If you are using the on board indicator it's not very acurate. Also these bikes are know for big variations in voltage at anytime. I was told this by David at Acumen in the UK. I check this myself vs the voltage changes on a 2000 Grand Prix. I hooked the acumen voltage reader to the Prix and it stayed at 14.4-14.2, at idle and higher rpms. On the Futura I've seen readings from 17 volts to 12 volts. If you aren't having any electrical or starting problems, don't sweat it. ,,,