Subwoofers help i have 2 subwoofers and 1 of the subwoofer seems to be thumping a little harder what is the problem with my other speaker?

I have no experience of wireless speakers but I think you should contact the seller, if the unit is still under warranty or perhaps the support section of the manufacturer's website.
Certainly do read the instrucion manual.

I am guessing but either the wireless signal is being lost (depends on the function of the blue light) or the subwoofer is malfunctioning after a few minutes and the built-in thermal or overload protection is switching it off. The thump sound could be it trying to switch on again and finding the fault is still present.

Just my thoughts...

This is not abnormal, and normally not harmful to your sub. Just temporarily lower the volume setting on the back while switching things I guess is the easiest thing to do.

Amp needs repaired - decide if worth fixing or buy a new sub

It may not be worth the expense, but if the cone or surround are torn, they can be replaced by a speaker repair shop. I just had a pair of JL 10W6's re-edged (the foam surround around the cone deteriorated after 11 years), and the repair cost $100 for the pair, including parts.

Good day,
In your trunk there are 2 small amps. The first amp is connected to your car speakers. The second amp is connected to your subwoofer. Once you locate the subwoofer amp. Your subwoofer amp will be the amp close to the sub enclosure. Unplug the subwoofer from the amp. Your next step is to unscrew the 4 10mm bolts so that you can remove the sub enclosure. At this point you can now remove the enclosure. It will take a some time as it always seems to be up there pretty good. But once it starts to move it should come out with little work. I hope this helps with your removal of the subwoofer.

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you are better off setting your deck speakers amp to a high pass filter setting on the amp. Adjust gains to increase desired bass and clarity. Turn off loud button if you have one, that will distort your deck speakers.

IF THE SUB HAS AUTO SIGNAL SWITCH THIS OFF BUT TO BE HONEST IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE A SPLIT VOICE COIL.

You need to wire your Subs in Series. This way the current that passes through one has to pass through the other. Bridge your amp. and follow the wiring below.

Amp+ to Sub1+
Sub1- to Sub2+
Sub2- to Amp-

Ive seen this problem in alot of audio setups in vehicles but most peeps dont know this is not a good thing and will cause damage to your woofers or amp. 99% of the time it turns out to be as you said that bad boy muting circuit. alot of these curcuits do use separate transitors or diodes as mute switches but most of them are directly from the Microproccessor. Only way to trouble shoot this is with a schematic and a good car stereo tech. Good luck