How to start Echo PB 265L blower, I cleaned and replaced all relative parts to the fuel system. I have a spark and compression.

If the timing on your 1RZ engine is properly done and the engine is still not starting, there are a few things you can check:

1. Fuel system: Check to make sure there is fuel in the tank and that it is flowing properly to the carburetor. You can also check the fuel filter to make sure it is clean and not clogged.
2. Spark plugs: Check to make sure the spark plugs are clean and properly gapped. If they are dirty or damaged, replace them.
3. Ignition system: Check to make sure the ignition system is functioning properly. This includes the distributor cap, rotor, ignition coil, and spark plug wires.
4. Compression: Check the engine's compression. If there is low compression, it can cause the engine to not start or run poorly.
5. Air intake: Make sure the air intake system is not clogged or obstructed.

If you have checked all of these things and the engine still won't start, you may want to take it to a mechanic for further diagnosis and repair.

I know that it sounds stu*** but I had a guy bring his bike to me with a similar issue and the parts store sold him"high preference iridium spark plugs" and bike ran for a couple weeks then same issue I always use OEM plugs and the spark gap I have seen them not gapped correct in box new and everyone assumes that they are correct.
But also sounds like you're getting too much fuel if OEM plugs and gaps correct (and no dielectric grease on the actual threads of the spark plug cuz as you know that the ground I've seen that actually cause an issue one time
And you have spark,fuel (checked compression) sounds like a timing problem or fuel is adjusted incorrectly and you replaced the crank sensor but I believe if still throwing the same code it has a cam sensors also and last and hopefully not I am pretty sure they stopped using a rectifier and use computer now but shut the fuel off spray some brake cleaner and directly into the cylinder and not that environmentally safe stuff it is not as volatile as ether or starting fluid and with the fuel lines off spray a little bit in there and see if it'll fire up just for a second if it does then you know you probably have an issue with the computer or the fuel in the fuel adjustment

sorry if you guess and guess wrong. really, must be expensive.



ok got spark (and timing is good, timing light test)

if test fuel ( use instant start in a spray can) fails, with spark

then engine is bad, compression is checked, see near 80 not 150+ PSI , the timing belt has slipped. if not changed by the book

they slip and the engine grenades (or bends valves)



this is an interference engine, never ignore the belt.

there is an acid test order.

1 compression good.

2 spark good, and timed

3 fueling is last. (if spark plugs dry add fuel, by hand)



cant burn fuel with no compression and spark. well with EFI it cant run right with bent valves either.



here is Chad running an engine (any) with no gas tank

even his battery is dead. and has external battery. for 12v power.

a real trooper.

ive done this 1000s of times. in 60 years.

his engine only makes 80 psi (old) and still starts.

but EFI will never do that not that low. compression



the cam slips and goes retarded compression drops to near 1/2

and the valve timing is so bad, the exh opens late and pollutes the

next last intake charge. the card house falls and then the valve bend.



take if from me, nostarts are a blessing on any honda

maybe it saved your valves.? do the service on time./

Hi there:

DTC P0302 - Misfire Detection Monitor - Cylinder 2 Misfire

A misfire is nothing more than a lack of combustion, which can be caused by poor fuel quality or metering, low compression, lack of spark or unmetered air entering the engine. There are other possible, less obvious causes as well, such as uncommanded Exhaust Gas Recirculatin (EGR), flow.

Other possible causes:
* Fuel injectors, related wiring, sensors and computer issues
* Running out of gas, or poor fuel quality
* Evaporative emissions system (EVAP) concerns: fuel vapors leaking into engine
* Incorrect Fuel Pressure
* EGR system concerns: leaking EGR valve or restricted ports
* Base engine concerns: low compression, valve train problems and timing issues
* Ignition system concerns including, but not limited to:
- Faulty spark plugs
- Faulty coil or related wiring
- Ignition module or related wiring issues
- Ignition related sensor faults or wiring issues

Hope this helps.

Hi there:
A misfire is nothing more than a lack of combustion, which can be caused by poor fuel quality or metering, low compression, lack of spark or unmetered air entering the engine. There are other possible, less obvious causes as well, such as uncommanded Exhaust Gas Recirculatin (EGR), flow. When the misfire monitor detects a misfire, it will trigger the check engine light with the specific cylinder number as the last digit in the P030X code. For instance cylinder 1 misfire is P0301, cylinder 2 is P0302 etc. In this case we are left with a P0306 in the computer memory.


Possible Causes:
Fuel injectors, related wiring, sensors and computer issues
Running out of gas, or poor fuel quality
Evaporative emissions system (EVAP) concerns: fuel vapors leaking into engine
Incorrect Fuel Pressure
EGR system concerns: leaking EGR valve or restricted ports
Base engine concerns: low compression, valve train problems and timing issues
Ignition system concerns including, but not limited to:
- Faulty spark plugs
- Faulty coil or related wiring
- Ignition module or related wiring issues
- Ignition related sensor faults or wiring issues



Other details could be find HERE.


Hope helps.

For an engine to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.

• Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
  
• Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.
  
• Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and ECM (engine control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.
  

If Your Engine Cranks but Does Not Start Follow this Troubleshooting Guide
Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures apply to most cars.

• Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test ok continue to the next step.
  
• Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag ) and the fuses test ok a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running. The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is ok with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.
  
• Step 3: The spark plugs in your engine are used to ignite the compressed fuel air mixture. If the condition of the spark plugs are fouled by excessive fuel or carbon the engine will not start, backfire or run rough. Remove all spark plugs to inspect their condition. Please use this spark plug condition reference guide to see how the spark plugs are operating.
  

Free Auto Repair Advice by Professional Mechanics




Troubleshooting / Car Engine Cranks but Will Not Start / Engine Crank But Wont Start 2

* Why does my engine stall at idle?
* How do I change my spark plugs?
* Why does my engine stall?
* Why does the engine stall after replacing the battery?
* Why won't my engine crank over?
* How to retrieve trouble codes
* How to test fuel delivery system
* Engine cranks excessively
* Engine has excessive smoke
* Rapid ticking sounds when engine is cranked
* How to tune up your engine
* How to jump start your engine
* How to test an oxygen sensor
* How to open a car hood
* How a flywheel - flex plate works

Engine Cranks But Will Not Start

For an engine to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run. Follow the repair guide below:


Engine Configuration with Camshaft Operation

*

Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
*

Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.
*

Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (engine control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.

If your engine cranks but does not start follow this troubleshooting guide:
* Step 1 - Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test ok continue to the next step.
* Step 2 - To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test ok a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running. The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is ok with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.
* Step 3 - The spark plugs in your engine are used to ignite the compressed fuel air mixture. If the condition of the spark plugs are fouled by excessive fuel or carbon the engine will not start, backfire or run rough. Remove all spark plugs to inspect their condition. Please use this spark plug condition reference guide to see how the spark plugs are operating.
* Step 4 - Determine if the engine has compression, this can be done a number of ways but the most complete method is to perform a compression check. Remove the spark plugs and perform a compression test on one cylinder. If one cylinder has compression then the remaining cylinders usually will be close to the same. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds, normal compression readings should be between 125 psi and 160 psi on each cylinder. If no or little compression exists additional tests will be needed. The most common reason for an engine to lose compression is a timing belt or timing chain failure. If low or no compression exists remove the oil fill cap and observe camshaft rotation when the engine is cranked over. If no rotation exists the timing belt or chain has failed. If your engine has a timing belt and you cannot see the camshaft easily remove the upper bolts to the timing cover and gain visual access to the belt, recheck cam rotation by cranking the engine over. Sometimes a timing belt or chain can jump causing the camshaft to lose correlation with the crankshaft and therefore causing low compression. The best test for this condition is to remove the timing belt/chain cover and inspect timing marks. If the compression is ok proceed to next step.
* Step 5 - Test the ignition system output, ignition systems can vary in configuration but operate on the same principal. Ignition systems can consist of a coil, pick up coil, crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, ignition rotor and a distributor and any variations of these components. An ignition coil is a voltage stepper coil that transforms a low voltage (12 volts) signal into tens of thousands of volts needed to jump the gap of the spark plug. This coil is activated by an ignition module triggered by using the camshaft/crankshaft angle sensor; timing is adjusted by the ECM (computer).

Hope helps (remember rated and comment this).

If it is getting fuel (with good fuel pressure) and spark (blue), then your problem is either timing related which could come from a snapped timing belt, or compression related which could be due to a blown head gasket. In which case you would replace the timing belt or replace the head gasket respectively.

clean the throttle body.the throttle body can get gummed up and cause issues.
put a fuel additive to clean the system.

these other items all contribute to fuel usage.
spark plugs.
o2 sensor
air flow meter
fuel filter
idle air controller (IAC)