SOURCE: whirlpool washer lxr9245eq1 doesn't spin dry completely
Try this... while in in spin turn your spin selector switch and listen if motor spins slower or faster.. at fast spin open your lid quick to see how fast its spinning.. check and make sure your drain line is cleared and the water flow out fast...and if its spinning too slow problem is in the gearbox area..
SOURCE: Whirlpool washer will not spin dry
HI. the first action is to test the lid switch. The lid switch ensures that the lid is closed before enabling the machine to spin or agitate. This feature was added after serious injuries resulted from people reaching into an operating washing machine. For this reason, the lid switch should never be bypassed. Aside from electrical problems, the switch may suffer from a mechanical problem. The lid may have a striker which depresses the switch when the lid is closed. Make sure the striker is functioning and aligned with the hole over the switch. Inspect the switch and make sure the metal strip is not bent out of position (if present). If your switch uses a mercury switch, make sure the mercury envelops the internal contacts when it is in the closed lid position. Your design may differ, so inspect it for proper operation before proceeding to the electrical testing.There are two primary types of lid switches. One type on which you can directly test the terminals on the switch and another style where you have to test it at the wiring harness. In either case the method for testing the switch is the same. If a wiring harness is used, separate the two pieces of the harness and test the side of the harness that connects to the switch. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of infinity. Depress the button on the lid switch and the reading should change from a reading of infinity to roughly zero. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.
Some lid switches also have a fuse, you can visually inspect the fuse or test it for continuity with a multimeter. If the fuse is bad, replace it with one of the same rating.
If the lid switch is operational, i would move on to the next possible issue. This will be the motor coupler.
Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission
. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.
Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.
There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.
Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.
***(I would suggest to check the following while you are in the area for faults as well(((Clutch,motor,motor board,transmission))). inspect these areas thoroughly)
Ok, if all the above checks out ok and, there are no signs of damage to any of the above parts stated, this will confirm a timer control module malfunction. replace the control device(timer or control board) asap, if possible.
SOURCE: washer banging during spin cycle. Seems to be off
there are balacing feet on the underside of the washer on each front corner.....they turn like a screw.....
SOURCE: whirlpool model SM 8525079 fills with water but
If you have motor sounds after water fill,but no agitation or spin it could be a broken direct drive coupling. If it will not pump out water,there could be something stuck in the drain pump.
SOURCE: I have a Whirlpool top loading washer model #
lift the lid,do you hear it clicking,if not you have a broken lid switch,for the leaking,if it's in the right front sounds like the pump is leaking,take out the 2 screws that hold the top console in,they might be in the back of console corners,lift up the console,now remove the 2 clips with a screw driver and remove the lid switch wires,now pull up and forward and remove the frame,you can change the lid switch and check the leak,the wire you disconnected for the lid switch,get a piece of wire,srip off the two ends and stick it in the outside holes on the harness that plugged into the lid switch,your just jumping it out so you can put the washer into spin to find the leak,hope this helps,if you need any more help let me know
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