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The top of the washer lifts up like a car hood after two clips between the top and the front panel are pushed with a putty knife. Once the top is flipped open, the screws that hold the front panel in place at the top can be removed and the panel lifted off. The belt may be bad or something may be stopping the belt like a bad pump. Or the transmission drive pulley and bearing may be going bad. If the bearings above the transmission drive pulley fail the brake will not release correctly in the spin cycle causing weak, slow or no spin. The belt & pulley system can be accessed by tipping the washer back. The belt is routed around all three pulleys under the washer and is fairly loose until the motor starts. It is the torque of the motor that gives the belt tension. Leaking or loud "jet engine" sound in spin indicates a bad main tub seal at the outer tub which has caused the spin bearing to fail. This is a complicated repair as the inner and outer tubs need to be removed from the washer to access and replace the seal and bearing components. Enter your model number into the PartDetective on the Find & Order Parts page to see all the parts available for the unit.
Ours started doing the very same thing. I took the top off and found that a mouse had chewed a hole in the vacuum tube. I replaced it with a 3/16" ID small engine gas line hose I bought at local implement dealer. Works like a charm.