I have Dual brand car audio amp and band-pass box I have had no problems with it in the two years after being installed. A couple weeks ago I got a hold of some extreme bass music and pushed my setup really hard. It was great for a few days, but now all the sudden my amp goes into protect mode if I even turn it up half way. If I crank it the speakers sound good until the amp fades out after a couple seconds. I turn it down and the amp comes back on line. Is there any way I can tell for sure if its the amp or speakers? I have a multimeter. I just don`t want to replace the amp if its going to do the same thing.Thanks if anyone can save the trouble.
If you know how to use a multimeter, you can test the amp this way:
-unhook the subs -hook up a cheapie speaker you know for sure works to one of the channels -unhook the audio inputs -turn the amp on -set your meter to VDC -put the positive probe on the inside of the input connector, being sure you make contact with th inner contact -take the negative probe and tap it on the outside of the connector
you are doing is sending a low voltage (replicating an audio signal)
into the amp audio circuit and allowing the amp to amplify it. If the
amp makes the speaker pop each time you strike the probe, the amp is
There is an inherent problem with band passes. The naturally filter out high frequencies like a crossover, including distortion, so it makes it hard to hear when the subs begin to protest.
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What you're looking for is called a "crossover". A crossover is an electronic filter for an audio or speaker circuit. In an audio circuit, a crossover is used to prevent or pass certain frequencies or a range of frequencies from passing through it. Since your sub will reproduce the bass or low frequencies, you don't want other speakers to reproduce them. A band pass filter on your door speakers will do this for you. A band pass filter passes only a range or "band" of frequencies and blocks those that are above and below the range or band of frequencies selected. Installing a band pass filter will prevent the very high & very low frequencies from getting to the door /dash speakers. Likewise, you should consider connecting a low pass filter to your subs, too. The low pass filters work a little differently from of the way band pass filters work - they only allow low frequencies to get to the sub - blocking all the other higher frequencies (your other speakers are better suited to reproduce those). Lastly, you would install a high pass filters on tweeters. Tweeters are designed to reproduce only the high frequencies - sending mid and low frequencies to them is wasting power and can cause damage to them.
You purchase the filters for specific crossover points (the block / unblocked point) as determined by the individual speakers. If a sub has a frequency response of 20Hz - 100Hz, a low pass filter of 100Hz would be ideal. Remaining filters would need to begin at 100Hz - assuming the mid-range speakers have a frequency response beginning at 100Hz. A band pass filter of 100Hz - 3KHz would fit the bill nicely if the mid-range speakers go up to 3Khz Match the high end of the band pass to the high end of the frequency response of the mid-range speakers. Next, a high pass filter at 3KHz would allow only the high frequencies to your tweeters. Basically, you want to have the entire audible range 20Hz - 20KHz covered by the speakers and have the crossover points that match the frequency response ranges of the speakers.
if you are trying to use it with the stock headunit you would need to buy a line output converter to use your amp and sub.
after you buy the converter you will then need to splice into one of your rear speaker wires so you can run the rca's to the amp and continue with normal install
Visonik is somewhat low-end car audio and band pass enclosures in general usually produce rather muddy and boomy bass. It will probably sound "bad", but not hot, and not cool.
If you aim is a good self-contained system with amp, sub and enclosure all in one, why not consider an Infinity Basslink, MTX Thunderlink, or perhaps a Bazooka. They're all available at www.crutchfield.com for little more than you'll pay for the Visonik and any of them will definitely sound better.
You need to look at the specifications of the speakers and the specifications of the amp you are hooking them up to. For example: The speakers could be 8ohm drivers wired in parallel which would produce one connection at 4ohms. Most "bridgeable" car amplifiers are very stable at 4ohms. However you must first find out if the amp is "bridgeable" which means it's taking both outputs and adding them together for one monoral output.
Now to the contrary: If both speakers are 4ohms wired parallel, this would produce a 2ohm load and alot of "inexpensive" amps will not work efficiently in a 2ohm load since it creats alot of heat! and will cause an amp to shut down.
Get your manuals out and look at the specifications for impedance.
Lastly, you've got a band-pass box that is specifically designed for a mono load. (one channel) since there is no internal divider between the subs. If you were to run this box in 2 channel or "stereo" the subs would not be moving in unisome and fighting each other for "airspace". Hope this helps
A dual voice coil speaker can be wired to be a 2 ohm speaker or an 8 ohm speaker depending on whether you wire it in series (8 ohm) or parallel (2 ohm). When you bridge your amp then the two channels will share the load from your speaker. If the speaker is wired as 8 ohm then each channel of the amp is driving a 4 ohm load which is fine. If you are bridged into a 2 ohm speaker then each channel will be driving a 1 ohm load, which is a very very heavy load. Is your amp designed to drive a 1 ohm load? If not then that would explain why you are having a problem.