GE washer will agitate but won't spin unless I open the lid a few times or spin it manually.

There are a few potential causes for your Roper washer not spinning or draining:

1. Drive belt: If the drive belt is broken or slipping, it could prevent the tub from spinning. Check the belt for any signs of damage or wear, and make sure it is properly tensioned.
2. Lid switch: Even though you said the lid switch is ok, it's still worth checking it again as it is responsible for ensuring that the washer will not spin or drain unless the lid is closed.
3. Motor coupler: The motor coupler connects the motor to the transmission and can wear out over time. If it has failed, the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the coupler for any signs of wear or damage.
4. Drain pump: A clogged drain pump or pump motor failure can prevent the washer from draining. Check the pump and clean out any debris that may be blocking it.
5. Control board: The control board could also be a potential culprit, especially if the washer is not completing cycles correctly. Check the board for any signs of damage or malfunction.
6. Transmission: If none of the above solutions work, there may be an issue with the transmission. This will require a professional repair.

I hope this helps you diagnose and fix the issue with your Roper washer.

You have asked a number of questions. How old is the Washer?
Based on your questions, it may be time to replace. No I am not a
GE Rep. Parts can be ordered online. Google Appliance parts. They may be able to help with "how to's". If newer machine, still warranty? If so check with GE. Otherwise, if the tub isn't being over filled and spin out doesn't send water outside the outer tub which could explain the dripping. Verify gasket leak by leaving water in tub and measure height of water very carefully let stand several days and remeasure.
Remove top should be springs on the front. Push in, to release, tip-up top. Tub must be removed. Remove the agitator by removing the top plastic, should reveal top nut holding down the agitator. You will see a number of nuts holding the agitator tower to reveal gasket. There may be rusting and pin holes causing the leak. I would check this before attempting gasket. I had a similar issue, used JB Weld epoxy about 5 year ago, still not leaking. Possibly the agitator tower has a seal leaking at top. If so that is in transmission and should be replaced as well as the bottom gasket. It may be $200 part.
Due to all the trouble, I replaced it to prevent future failure. You may find a lightly used replacement washer for about that price.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission.

Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it.
Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Lid Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission. Another common problem is the lid switch.

Drive Belt If the washer won't spin, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin properly.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer spin the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.

Drive Block If the washer won't spin the drive block might be worn out or may have come loose. Underneath the agitator the drive block connects the inner tub (the one that spins around) to the transmission. If the drive block wears out the transmission shaft will still spin but the tub may not - or it may spin slowly. This also usually causes a lot of noise. The drive block is relatively easy to replace.

Clutch Assembly If the washer won't spin, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.

Clutch Band kit If the washer won't spin, the clutch band kit might be worn out. The clutch makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. If the washer won't spin, this clutch band kit may need to be replaced.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged It will have to be replaced.

Tub Bearing If the washer won't spin the tub bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

Tub Seal and Bearing Kit If the washer won't spin the tub seal and bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

Bearing If the washer won't spin the bearing might have seized. This is not common. The bearing doesn't require any normal maintenance. They generally go bad when the tub seal fails and allows water to leak past into the bearing.
Basket Drive If the washer won't spin the basket drive clutch might be worn out. The basket drive sits on top of the transmission and engages with the inner tub. If the basket drive wears out the tub won't spin.

Basket Drive Hub Kit If the washer won't spin the basket drive hub might be worn out. The hub is a set of plastic gears underneath the agitator. The basket drive hub kit is easy to replace with standard hand tools.
Transmission If the washer won't spin the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are numerous more likely causes when a washer won't spin, which should be checked first.

Hello,

Firstly i want to apoligize for the quesionable advice,some on here or elsewhere on the net fixed their washer and suddenly their are experts!!
Now Then as you know your washer is made by Amana/Speed Queen and has no agitator dogs(a quick search of parts breakdown will show anybody that) it also has no spin tube (aka basket drive),the brake pads which it does have would squeal only when washer stops spinning if they were bad just like squalling brakes on or vehicle the are quite till applied if bad,what the most likely cause of the noise is going to be the tub bearing,it is on the bottom of the outer tub. The inner and outer tub must be removed,it is advisable if replacing the tub bearing that you also replace the tub seal since it may not seal correctly once taken apart and leak badly.The hub taht connect inner tub to transmission must be removed so ya can remove the outer tub it requires a special wrench which is not to expensive but nothing else will work. IF ya want to go ahead and repair this the part numbers are;
TUB BEARING 40004201P
TUB SEAL 35-5655-1
SPANNER WRENCH 306P4

PROCESS TO REPLACE BEARING;
unplug power
remove front panels
remove screws holding top to cabinet
remove plastic tub cover by down slightly and lift tabs
remove agitator
remove bolts from hub under agitator and remove inner tub
use that spanner wrench and a hammer on nut on hub and remove nut in counterclockwise direction by hitting wrench w/hammer
lift off hub
remove rubber tub seal
remove all springs from outer tub by locking on vise grips and pull springs off
remove bolts holding outer tub to the to tub support
pull off outer tub and set down so bottom is facing up
remove old bearing and install new old
reassamble in reverse order

this is a link for parts breakdown http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Amana-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-NAV2330AWW/1268/0153200?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=NAV2330AWW

to order parts order from sears or for a cheaper price by a little rearsch from
apdepot.com
assuredparts.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Good luck, if you have any question reply and ask away.
Gene

This could be the start of Outer Tub Bearing issue.


Raise the lid of your washer and rotate the wash basket CCW as fast as you can. Does is spin down slowly to a gentle stop after several revolutions with no bearing noise?

The Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.

I would by removing the Clutch Pulley and check for One-Way Roller clutches bearing wash water contamination. That will give you a feel for the integrity of the Tub Seal. See my Clutch Fix post for support.

If this is Outer Tub Bearing noise you will have to replace them along with the Tub Seal and Tranny O-ring. The Series 16 machine (I have that one also doesn’t use the upper Clutch bearing ring. That upper One-Way Roller clutches bearing is integrated into one of the Outer Tub bearings.

See this post. This guy bothered me for his statement that I left him hanging. I’m a DIY’er not a appliance tech and most AT’s won’t touch this with a 10 foot poll due to lack of knowledge. I did replace the Outer Tub bearings on a ebay win Series 10 machine. See this post for the details of that.

Don’t get too excited by any of this. 1st determine if the squeaky noise is Outer Tub bearing noise I haven’t had them fail yet but I would suspect you will hear metal against metal grinding of the ball bearings in the bearing race. There will be down time for the tear down and work. You need to determine if this is worth it for your situation. No more than a $85 to replace Outer Tub bearings tub seal tranny o-ring and buy Maytag Spinner Nut removal tool for reassembly and you extend the service life of your $1K machine.
If you want to DIY further let me know……Rich

The lid has to be closed for agitate and spin. The lid switch is loose or defective.
Open the control console to retrieve the mini service manual.
Follow the steps to access the lid switch and repair.

there should be 2 or 3 springs that hold it, they mite have broke, take off back panel an check.

My rule of thumb: Take what you paid for the washer new and divide by number of years without repairs. That is your cost per year for the washer. If the repair will get you another year and is less than the number above do the repair. If you have done more than 2 major repairs in a year it is time to think new. eric

the bearing on the tub is shot. depending on the make and model you might want a pro to look at it. depending on the age you might just want to replace it