Dryer will not produce hot air. What could be the problem? I opened the back panel and there is a square shaped box that was hot. Is that the heat element?

The heating element will have multiple coils to it with two leads coming into it. POS/NEG. If that is it then it is very strange that it is not enclosed in some way shape or form.

Probably a defective high limit sensor causing the dryer to run "wide open".

It is possible that your dryer isn't heating because its heating element is defective. Heating elements are irrepairable. If yours has ceased to function properly, you will have to replace it. Open your dryer's cabinet and locate the heating element so that you can test it. Disconnect the power source to your dryer before you conduct this or any other test. Either unplug the unit from the wall outlet, remove the appropriate fuse from the fuse box, or flip the appropriate breaker in the circuit breaker panel.

Dryer heating elements come in various shapes and sizes. They are all strung with a coiled wire made of a nickel and a chrome alloy. This wire receives, but resists, a controlled electric current and as a result, the wire heats up. The heat produced is used to heat and dry the clothes in your dryerOnce you have gained access to your dryer's heating element, set your multimeter to the R x 1 resistance scale. Touch each meter probe and to one end of the element. If you receive a reading of infinite resistance, then your heating element is no longer functioning properly and you will have to replace it, thanks to parts direct

remove the bottom panel and check the fuse and the heating element ,the fuse is on the left side of heter box near the back and the element is in the heater box

check where your dryer vent goes through your outside wall they sometimes clog up with lint and cause the escaping heat to recirculate back to your dryer causing the sensor to read the dryer as too hot clear all lint from the outside vent so you can feel the air coming out very steadily and quickly If this works you are all set otherwise check your heating element

Heating element is probably fine. I had this problem repeatedly shortly after I purchased the machine. Remove the screws on the top of the machine by where you load it (1 on each side). Lift top front up a few inches to allow for the front panel to be removed or leaned forward to access front of inside of machine. After front panel is out of the way, locate the red button. Push it. You have reset the fuse for the heating element and the dryer will now produce heat.

This will likely happen repeatedly. Mine was happening abouut once a week. Eventually, I discovered that FP dryers are very sensitive and that they will only push their exhaust so far. Anything more than about 20 feet and the machine will think the line is blocked and will trip the fuse on the heating element. I purchased a part from Lowes (do not recall what it is called) that is essentially a self contained dryer vent. Its a small box that hangs on the wall right next to the dryer. Run the exhaust tube into the box which is has an inch of water in it. water collects the lint and the hot air escapes from the vents on the top of the box.

Never had the problem again.

Hi, open the back panel. You will find a black cutout switch with a red button on it. Press the red button to reset the heating mechanism. Close the back panel and test the machine.

There is a thermal fuse its location depends on the dryer if the filter is on the top then you have to take off the back panel and check the white fuse. If the filter is inside the dryer you have to take off the bottom panel. a flathead screw driver for the 2 clips the check the white fuse behind the lint trap (where the filter goes).

This advice is for problems associated with GAS DRYERS that RUN, but DO NOT HEAT. Ensure your dryer ducting is clear and not clogged, first. ALL dryers require proper air flow in order to dry efficiently. If you do not have any obvious vent duct obstructions you can follow these simple steps in identifying WHICH dryer heating circuit component may be defective BEFORE you have to disassemble anything. With the dryer plugged in and the gas supply turned on, follow these steps:

PUSH START – Listen for a “click”. You have to listen carefully to hear it. If no “click” is heard when you push the start button, this is usually an indication of a bad RADIANT HEAT SENSOR.

PUSH START – “Clicking” sound is present, but dryer still does not ignite. This is usually an indication of a bad IGNITER.

PUSH START – Dryer ignites, but heating circuits shut off after a short period of time. You attempt to restart, but the dryer makes a “buzzing” sound. This is usually an indication of a bad GAS VALVE SOLENOID.

Now, these initial symptom analyses will give you a rough idea of where to begin troubleshooting. These tips are NOT all inclusive, but suited for the more common problems encountered with dryer ignition problems. In theory the dryer ignition works like this – You push the start button and the igniter begins to glow. This igniter will produce a certain current potential (roughly 2.5 to 3.7 amps, depending on type of igniter) and the gas valve will open. Once the gas valve opens, you have ignition. This is a built in safety feature of the unit that prevents free flowing gas inside your home or garage without ignition. If you suspect a bad gas valve solenoid, the dryer usually has two of them. It is recommended that you replace BOTH of them at the same time. If you suspect the igniter to be bad, open the dryer enough to see the burner assembly. There should be a visible glow from the igniter after you push start. If the igniter does NOT glow, replace it. If the igniter DOES glow, take a current reading to see if it is producing enough current. Here are the two types of igniters are their specifications:

Carborundum – cylindrical in shape (2.5 to 3.0 amps)
Norton – Rectangular in shape (3.2 to 3.7 amps)

I hope this information is helpful.

There is one on the blower housing close to the outlet. It is white and rectangular in shape (usually has two blue wires connected to it. The other one is on the side of the heater box (the box at the rear of the cabinet that directs hot air into the drum) this one looks more like a normal thermostat. If either of these are open it may mean that there is an air flow issue or a fused thermostat contact. Burned wire terminals to either fuse means that there was a poor contact between the terminals. Make sure wire terminals are tight when reconnecting them.