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Sounds like you're having issues with a hydraulic jack. There are a few things that could be causing this issue:
1) The seals in the hydraulic cylinder are beginning to fail, allowing fluid to leak out of the pressurized cylinder and back into the reservoir
2) The valve is failing, leading to a similar issue stated above.
That stated, DO NOT CONTINUE TO USE THE JACK until you have resolved the issue--the high pressure system could fail very violently.
Place dryer on the floor
put car jack under the opened dryer door and gentle lift the door in the opposite direction with the child sitting on the dryer when placed on the floor. Experiment - A little bit at a time test door until latch works again.
Be careful not to damage the door with too much jacking / lifting.
May want to place a piece of timber between top of jack and door to minimize damaging the door.
It is not that Hard, you can use the Jack from your Car... Lift up a little on the Oil Pan with the Jack, you will see the engine Mount move. Once you have that pressure on, then you just take the center bolt and then the mount bolts. Install the new Mount and lower the jack.
YOU DO NOT WANT TO LIFT THE CAR, JUST GET WEIGHT OFF THE MOUNT
You either need to top up the oil, or change the oil. Both of these are easy to do. You'll need some high-grade jack oil, an Allen wrench, a rag or two, and a funnel.
1.) Relieve the pressure and lower the jack arm all the way down. 2.) Remove the tool tray from between the two rear wheels. 3.) Wipe the oil fill plug clean. (You don't want any gunk or debris falling inside.) 4.) Remove the plug with the Allen wrench.
Look inside. If the oil level is at or below the inner cylinder wall, you'll need to add oil. Don't go more than 3/16"-1/4" above the inner cylinder wall.
With the pressure still off, gently raise & lower the arm two or three times. Check and adjust your oil level again. Then screw the plug back in & tighten it with your Allen wrench.
Everything OK? Great. If not, repeat 1 through 4, then lay the jack on its side & drain ALL the oil out (into a container). When it's empty, set it upright & fill it. Again, raise & lower the arm several times.
Replace the plug, tighten it, then test. Raise the jack all the way up, then lower it all the way down, without any load on it. Repeat this two more times. (This helps to dissipate the air bubbles in the oil.) It should now be ready to use.
"The" motor mount implies one of the three (actually the rear on is a transmission mount).
Loosen the bolts on the mounts that you are keeping.
Next, place a 2x6 about 1 ft long under the oil pan and place a jack under the oil pan and 2x6 board.
Apply pressure (just a little) to the jack.
Now, remove the bolts that hold the bad motor mount. Apply enough lift on the jack to get the engine weight off the motor mount (and no more).
Next, knock out the bad mount and insert the new mount. Insert the bolts (hand tighten).
Next, lower the jack until the block rests on the new mount. Tighten the other motor mount bolts and the new mount bolts (torque to about 35 Ft. lbs.)
Page 1 of 2 u can vist auto zone .com for more info here to help Shaun
Before any service is performed, carefully check the following:
Be sure the vehicle is properly centered and secured on stands or a hoist.
If the vehicle has antilock brakes, depressurize the system according to the procedures given in the service manual.
Disconnect the battery ground cable.
Front brake pad replacement begins with removing brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir. If this is not done, the fluid could overflow and spill when the pistons are forced back into the caliper bore, possibly damaging the painted surfaces.
Replace the cover.
Discard old brake fluid.
Raise the car. Make sure it is safely positioned on the lift.
If you don't have a lift, use a jack and jack stands.
A handle on the jack is moved up and down to raise part of a vehicle and a valve is turned to release the hydraulic pressure in the jack to lower the part. At the end of the jack is a lifting pad.
The pad must be positioned under an area of the vehicle's frame or at one of the manufacturer's recommended lift points.
Never place the pad under the floorpan or under steering and suspension components, because they can easily be damaged by the weight of the vehicle.
Always position the jack so that the wheels of the vehicle can roll as the vehicle is being raised.
Never use a lift or jack to move something heavier than it is designed for. Always check the rating before using a lift or jack. If a jack is rated for 2 tons, do not attempt to use it for a job that requires a 5-ton jack. It is dangerous for you and the vehicle.
Safety stands, also called jack stands, are supports of various heights that sit on the floor. They are placed under a sturdy chassis member, such as the frame or axle housing, to support the vehicle.
Once the safety stands are in position, the hydraulic pressure in the jack should be slowly released until the weight of the vehicle is on the stands. Like jacks, jack stands also have a capacity rating. Always use the correct rating of jack stand.
Never move under a vehicle when it is supported by only a hydraulic jack. Rest the vehicle on the safety stands before moving under the vehicle.
The jack should be removed after the jack stands are set in place.
This eliminates a hazard, such as a jack handle sticking out into a walkway. A jack handle that is bumped or kicked can cause a tripping accident or cause the vehicle to fall.
If you use support stands on asphalt, put a piece of thick plywood or a steel plate under the stands.
Remove its wheel assemblies.
Inspect the brake assembly.
Look for signs of fluid leaks, broken or cracked lines, or a damaged break rotor. If a problem is found, correct it before installing the new brake pads.
Loosen the bolts and remove the pad locator pins.
During servicing, grease, oil, brake fluid, or any other foreign material must be kept off the brake linings, caliper, surfaces of the disc, and external surfaces of the hub. Handle the brake disc and caliper in such a way as to avoid deformation of the disc and nicking or scratching of the brake linings.
Lift and rotate the caliper assembly from the rotor.
Remove the brake pads from the caliper assembly.
Fasten a piece of wire to the car's frame and support the caliper with the wire.
When a hydraulic hose is disconnected, plug it to prevent any foreign material from entering.
Check the condition of the locating pin insulators and sleeves.
Art courtesy of Delmar - Thomson Learning.
Place a piece of wood over the caliper's piston and install a C-clamp over the wood and caliper.
Tighten the clamp to force the piston back into its bore.