Question about Black & Decker 19" Electric Lawnhog Mulching Mower

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Which wires connect to which terminals of the start/stop switch.

The pin that holds the handle in place broke, I was able to fix it with a screw, but in the process I disconnected the wires from the switch and now I do not remember which colored wires connect to which terminals.The switch has (4) terminals and a plunger that is actuated by the handle. The wiring consists of (1) red w/ metal connector w/ white plastic shroud around it, (1) white w/ metal connector, (1) black w/ metal connector w/ white plastic shroud around it and (1) black w/ metal connector.

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Posted on Aug 04, 2008

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SOURCE: Black and Decker Electric mower #M2370 lever

you could just try drilling the case out where the lever pivots and put a long nut and bolt to hold the lever in place

Posted on Apr 15, 2010

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SOURCE: mm850switch for black decker wher do wiring go

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Here is a picture of where the wires go on the switch.

Posted on Jul 22, 2010

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SOURCE: I have a Black and Decker CM1200 Type 1 electric

I had the same problem with the plastic post breaking, but opted to go the upgrade route. I just took a look at the old clamshell a minute ago and the black wires go on posts 1 & 3 and the white wire goes on the 4th post. There should be a red wire on the second post. The black wires are different lengths which I assume prevents someone from attaching the wrong black wire to the wrong post.
Hopes this helps.
Bill

Posted on Mar 03, 2011

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1 Answer

Rear door latch is broke


I had to do this, too... Mine cost me $70 at the local dealer (they even got it in the same stock paint color). Tip: buy a few of the inexpensive replacement plastic pins for your inner panel when you buy the handle housing, as they tend to break easily. You can pop the old pins by sticking a narrow straight screwdriver or a butterknife under the panel near them and twisting... once it's off, the screws for the old handle housing are fairly easy to spot (just remember where the housing bolts on from the exterior are located). Now that those are off, realize that the thing is probably hanging from your trunk by the wires connecting the license plate lights and the handle, itself They can be removed from the old, broken housing with a phillips #2 (normal size) screwdriver, and then the wires have a quick-disconnect so that you can pop the lights and the handle off w/o cutting the wires. Pop them off, slide the wires through your new handle housing, and screw them back on. then slide the handle housing into position (lining up the screws that are molded into the housing with the adjacent holes). You'll have to kind of hold it in place as you raise the trunk hatch to full open position, but once it's up, gravity is your friend. Use the screws that were holding the parts from the broken housing to re-affix the new one, and you're done.

Feb 29, 2012 | 2006 Scion xB

1 Answer

I need help on removing door panel on 2000 Dodge Caravan - window fell in dorr and I can not seem to get the panel off. Any suggestions?


Answer
FRONT DOOR TRIM PANEL
REMOVAL
Using a trim stick (available from parts stores), pry courtesy lamp from door trim.
Disconnect wire connector from courtesy lamp.
If equipped, remove screws attaching door assist handle to inner door panel.
If equipped, remove screw attaching door pull cup to inner door panel.
If equipped, remove screws attaching trim panel to door from below map pocket.
If equipped, remove window crank.
Using a trim stick, remove screw cover from switch panel.
Remove screws attaching switch panel to door trim.
Remove power accessary switch from door trim Front Door Switch Panel
Disconnect power switch from wire connector.
If equipped, using a small, flat bladed pry tool, remove memory seat/mirror switch and disconnect wire connector Memory Seat/Mirror Switch
If equipped, remove screw holding door trim to door panel from behind inside latch release handle.
Disengage clips attaching door trim to door frame around perimeter of panel Front Door Trim Panel
Lift trim panel upward to disengage flange from inner belt molding at top of door.
Tilt top of trim panel away from door to gain access to latch linkage.
Disengage clip attaching linkage rod to inside latch release handle Inside Door Handle Linkage
Separate linkage rod from latch handle.
Remove front door trim panel from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
Hold top of trim panel away from door to gain access to latch linkage.
Place linkage rod in position on latch handle.
Engage clip to hold linkage rod to inside latch release handle.
Place front door trim panel in position on door.
Install trim panel into inner belt molding at top of door.
Install clips to attach door trim to door frame around perimeter of panel.
If equipped, install screw to attach door trim to door panel behind inside latch release handle.
If equipped, connect power switch into wire connector.
Place power accessary switch in position on door trim.
Connect wire connector into memory seat/mirror switch and install switch into trim panel.
Install screws to attach accessary switch panel to door trim.
Install screw cover into switch panel.
If equipped, install window crank.
If equipped, install screws to attach trim panel to door inside map pocket.
If equipped, install screw to attach door pull cup to inner door panel.
If equipped, install screws to attach door assist handle to inner door panel.
Connect wire connector into courtesy lamp.
Install lamp in door trim.

Feb 02, 2012 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

How to replace the power switch on a Kirby G4


This repair requires extensive disassembly. First remove the handle, bag assembly, and switch "scuff" plate. To remove the switch plate, remove the screw at the bottom, and the upper screw that secures the cord. Insert a screwdriver into the rectangular slot in the plastic and pop it off. The cord must also be removed. One screw holds the cord cover to the lower motor shell. Remove the screw and push with a flat screwdriver on the back of the cover to unlatch it. Next remove the upper motor shell ( 4 screws ). The next piece to come off is the switch button. Pry upward on it's attaching lugs to free it, pull it upward far enough to disconnect it from the switch rod. The power drive assembly is next to go. Three screws on the bottom of the motor unit hold it in. DO NOT remove the center screw beneath the shift lever. The drive pedal must be in DRIVE for removal. The transmission drops down to get it out ( you may have to wiggle and pull on it to free it). Next the headlight frame assembly must be removed. You will see 2 screws at the rear, and 2 long screws in front which also secure the fan housing. After removing the screws, the headlight frame can be removed. Be careful to note the proper location of all wires! The right carbon brush assembly must be removed to allow the switch to slide back for removal. It is held in place by 1 screw and a tab on it's holder. Two screws hold the switch itself in place. One is on a tab on top of the switch, and the other is on the right bottom of the lower motor shell. The lower screw also serves as a motor mount screw. The switch can now be removed by inserting a small screwdriver along it's front edge and prying it backwards. It is wise to clear dust and lint from the motor contacts prior to re-assembly. Be sure the terminals on the field coil have not gotten bent before putting the new switch in place. Snap the new switch in place and replace the screws. It is easiest to replace the wires in this order:
1- Holding the headlight assembly off to the right, install the lower headlight wire.
2- Next connect the wire from the left carbon brush to the upper switch terminal.
3- Connect the upper headlight wire.
4- Gently replace the right carbon brush assembly, secure it with it's screw ( do not overtighten ) , and connect it's wire to the lower switch terminal.
After the switch is in, install the headlight frame screws, transmission and belt, and switch button in reverse order. Be sure the shift arm on the left side of the drive unit engages the slot or pin on the handle pivot assembly. The cover and trim pieces can now be re-installed.

Feb 16, 2011 | Kirby G4 Bagged Upright Vacuum

1 Answer

Trying to remove rear door handle on chrysler lhs 99


Hello, to remove and replace the rear door try the following:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery of your Chrysler LHS. You can accomplish this with an open end wrench, to prevent any injury or short in the electrical system as you are working on the door lock switch. Place the negative battery cable out of the way so it does not touch any metal parts.


2. Undo any screws that are holding the lower door panel to the door with a screwdriver. Unclip the plastic hold clips that are attached to the back of the panel by carefully pulling them away by hand.

3. Locate the electrical connector wires. These wires run behind the panel to the door arm rest and detach each wire connector by hand. Remember how the wires were attached so you can put them back the same way when it is time to reattach them.

4. Lower the door panel away from the door. Then, remove any screws holding the upper door panel in place. Remove the door handle pull cup that covers the door lock switch and door handle by carefully popping the cover off after you have removed the screws holding it in place.

5. Detach the upper door panel from the door. You can do this by pulling it away carefully from the plastic clips. Move the upper door panel out of the way and locate the door lock actuator switch. Remove the screws from the actuator switch that are holding it in place and disconnect the electrical wires attached to the back of the switch.

6. Replace the old door lock actuator switch with a new one. This replacement can occur by connecting the electrical wires to the back of the new switch and reattaching the switch to the door frame with screws. Put the upper door panel back in place, securing it to the door frame with plastic clips and screws.

7. Reattach the door handle pull cup to the upper door panel with screws. Then, put the lower door panel in place and reattach the electrical wires to the window switches underneath the armrest. Attach the lower door panel to the door frame with plastic clips and screws.

8. Attach the negative battery cable to the Chrysler LHS battery with the open end wrench.

Thanks













































Jul 27, 2010 | 1999 Chrysler LHS

1 Answer

Start botton is not working


Hi. There are two area of concern, in this case. This will be the door switch, and light switch. The door switch will be the first to test. This will be a Actuator based door mechanism. If this mechanism fails, the unit will not react to the start command. Follow the test procedure below to rule out the door switch.

The door switch may be accessible without removing the front panel or cabinet. The switch is located in the front panel of the unit, around the perimeter of the door opening. Inspect the switch to determine if it can be popped out or accessed by removing a fastening screw. If it cannot be accessed from the front, it will be necessary to open the unit cabinet. When reaching into the unit, be careful of sharp edges on the cabinet and interior supports.

Access varies by model, if your unit has a lower front panel (kick plate) start there. It should lift up and off or it may be held in place with a few screws or snaps; it may also have a catch at the edges or center gap between the kick panel and main panel. To release the catch, push a flat knife, wrapped with duct tape, into the gap and push back the catch. The next easiest access point is the rear panel. The rear access panel is held in place with several screws along the outer edges. The last resort method of access is the removal of the entire front panel. The front panel supports the front of the drum and so removal is more difficult. Front panel removal varies. In general, access is gained by lifting the top, removing the screws that secure the front panel, and detaching the panel from the drum.

Once access is gained, locate the door switch, it typically has two wires connected to it(Your unit may have two connection points. One with a two pin connector and the other may be a five pin connector). Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the switch, the reading should change to zero.

If the switch does not test as described, it should be replaced.

NOTE_ If you door switch is equipped with Two connectors, use the connector that only has Two terminal pins, or contact points for testing.

Now, if the door switch passes the test, move on to the start switch, and begin testing it for damage.

Locate the start switch(Usually located in the control panel housing). it will have two or three wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the start switch, the reading should change to zero.

For a three wire switch, touch one probe to the terminal labeled NC (or CT1) and touch the other probe to the terminal labeled CO (or R1). You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the start switch, the reading should change to zero.

If the switch fails either test, it should be replaced.

Ok, if after testing, you have verified that the door switch, and start switch are functional, this will lead to a failed main control sector. This will be the culprit.

Replace the failed component.

Dec 25, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

My whirlpool electric dryer wont turn on, it has power, the light comes on and the timer works but when i hit the start button nothing happens...


HI. There are two areas of concern here. You will need to test each area to isolate the culprit. Use the procedures to assist with the testing of the door, and start switch.

DOOR SWITCH:

The door switch may be accessible without removing the front panel or cabinet. The switch is located in the front panel of the dryer, around the perimeter of the door opening. Inspect the switch to determine if it can be popped out or accessed by removing a fastening screw. If it cannot be accessed from the front, it will be necessary to open the dryer cabinet. When reaching into the dryer be careful of sharp edges on the cabinet and interior supports.

Access varies by model, if your dryer has a lower front panel (kick plate) start there. It should lift up and off or it may be held in place with a few screws or snaps; it may also have a catch at the edges or center gap between the kick panel and main panel. To release the catch, push a putty knife, wrapped with masking tape, into the gap and push back the catch. The next easiest access point is the rear panel. The rear access panel is held in place with several screws along the outer edges. The last resort method of access is the removal of the entire front panel. The front panel supports the front of the drum and so removal is more difficult. Front panel removal varies. In general, access is gained by lifting the top (remove the lint trap screws first), removing the screws that secure the front panel, and detaching the panel from the drum.

Locate the door switch, it typically has two wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the switch, the reading should change to zero.

If the switch does not test as described, it should be replaced.


START SWITCH:

Locate the start switch(Usually located in the control panel housing). it will have two or three wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the start switch, the reading should change to zero.

For a three wire switch, touch one probe to the terminal labeled NC (or CT1) and touch the other probe to the terminal labeled CO (or R1). You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the start switch, the reading should change to zero.

If the switch fails either test, it should be replaced.

Dec 18, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

My gas clothes dryer began making strained noises when I pushed the start button. The basket made a couple of rotations, then whined to a stop. I've checked the connections. It's the coldest week of the...


Hi. The worst case scenario, in your case. will be a failed motor(sator damage). There are a couple of areas I would suggest to check, before replacing the motor.

The first area of concern will be the start switch.

Locate the start switch(Usually located in the control panel housing). it will have two or three wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the start switch, the reading should change to zero.

For a three wire switch, touch one probe to the terminal labeled NC (or CT1) and touch the other probe to the terminal labeled CO (or R1). You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the start switch, the reading should change to zero.

If the switch fails either test, it should be replaced.

The next area of concern will be the door switch.


The door switch may be accessible without removing the front panel or cabinet. The switch is located in the front panel of the dryer, around the perimeter of the door opening. Inspect the switch to determine if it can be popped out or accessed by removing a fastening screw. If it cannot be accessed from the front, it will be necessary to open the dryer cabinet. When reaching into the dryer be careful of sharp edges on the cabinet and interior supports.

Access varies by model, if your dryer has a lower front panel (kick plate) start there. It should lift up and off or it may be held in place with a few screws or snaps; it may also have a catch at the edges or center gap between the kick panel and main panel. To release the catch, push a putty knife, wrapped with masking tape, into the gap and push back the catch. The next easiest access point is the rear panel. The rear access panel is held in place with several screws along the outer edges. The last resort method of access is the removal of the entire front panel. The front panel supports the front of the drum and so removal is more difficult. Front panel removal varies. In general, access is gained by lifting the top (remove the lint trap screws first), removing the screws that secure the front panel, and detaching the panel from the drum.

Locate the door switch, it typically has two wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the switch, the reading should change to zero.

If the switch does not test as described, it should be replaced.

Now, if the start switch, and door switch are operational, and test out ok, this will confirm that the motor is damaged. It should be replaced in this case.

Dec 17, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer will not start. when you push the start it runs but when you release the starrt button it stops.


Hi. The start switch will be the culprit. Use the procedure below to confirm the damage.

Locate the start switch(Usually located in the control panel housing). it will have two or three wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the start switch, the reading should change to zero.

For a three wire switch, touch one probe to the terminal labeled NC (or CT1) and touch the other probe to the terminal labeled CO (or R1). You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the start switch, the reading should change to zero.

If the switch fails either test, it should be replaced.




Dec 13, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Drum will not rotate when START button is pushed. Neptune Model MDE 3000 AYW


Hi. There are two problem spots that i would inspect to determine the actual issue here. These spots are the door, and start switch.

DOOR SWITCH


The door switch may be accessible without removing the front panel or cabinet. The switch is located in the front panel of the dryer, around the perimeter of the door opening. Inspect the switch to determine if it can be popped out or accessed by removing a fastening screw. If it cannot be accessed from the front, it will be necessary to open the dryer cabinet. When reaching into the dryer be careful of sharp edges on the cabinet and interior supports.

Access varies by model, if your dryer has a lower front panel (kick plate) start there. It should lift up and off or it may be held in place with a few screws or snaps; it may also have a catch at the edges or center gap between the kick panel and main panel. To release the catch, push a putty knife, wrapped with masking tape, into the gap and push back the catch. The next easiest access point is the rear panel. The rear access panel is held in place with several screws along the outer edges. The last resort method of access is the removal of the entire front panel. The front panel supports the front of the drum and so removal is more difficult. Front panel removal varies. In general, access is gained by lifting the top (remove the lint trap screws first), removing the screws that secure the front panel, and detaching the panel from the drum.

Locate the door switch, it typically has two wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the switch, the reading should change to zero.

If the switch does not test as described, it should be replaced.

START SWITCH

Locate the start switch, it will have two or three wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the start switch, the reading should change to zero.

For a three wire switch, touch one probe to the terminal labeled NC (or CT1) and touch the other probe to the terminal labeled CO (or R1). You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the start switch, the reading should change to zero.

If the switch fails either test, it should be replaced.


NOTE:-(Make sure the unit is getting power before you inspect the above areas for faults.)

Oct 19, 2009 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

Handle Replacement on a HKMS155L Microwave


I think you have solved your problem already.

I have seen your requesty only now and I am sending the diagram to replace handle.

You remove door latch (nr 3 on diagram) first, then you unscrew the screw nr .8 and remove handle (nr.7).

Below the diagram:

71f6636.gif

You can find all parts and diagram for your appliance here.

Jun 09, 2008 | KitchenAid KHMS155L Microwave Oven

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