I know from usage that the slide must be pulled back before the trigger can be engaged-however my slide is stuck and will not move back -how to repair.

is child lock engaged --and to pop the latch use a screw driver to push to release

One of the triggers is the actual trigger, the other is the set trigger which lowers the trigger pull. The set trigger has a screw to adjust the sear and trigger engagement. Adjusting this by turning the screw inward reduces both trigger pull effort and the distance the trigger moves when pressed. I strongly urge that you either consult the manual for your rifle before making any trigger adjustments. If you are not confident you know what you are doing you should take this rifle to a gunsmith in your area for adjustment.

hold in right hand, depress cocking release with thumb, pull back cocking slide (takes some effort) till it locks out, push in on the lower front of barrel to rotate loading port to the up position (this won't move unless the cocking slide is pulled back), load BB in the top hole that is exposed (or a pellet in the lower hole), push loading port back down flush with barrel, push cocking slide forward. Marksman is now loaded. push safety button in so it is engaged. When in an appropriate place to shoot a target, push safety button back with your right finger (safety is off) and squeeze trigger.

if it has the green trigger you pull up to move height adjuster it is common that they snap or the roll pin comes out. simply take out the 2 cross head scews from the handle and remove handle, the trigger will then be free to remove, there will be a compression spring on the trigger dont loose it!!!! the triggers are quite cheap and can be bought online at ebay etc, just slide trigger back into handle bot forgetting to reit spring. refit handle to chassis and refit the 2 screws

it sounds like a flow switch that is installed in the inlet of pump can get stuck at times if you have a soap nozzle select it usually more flow moves the flow switch try and clean the flow switch if possible.

If you mean the derailleur doesn't move straight away when you move the gear trigger it's likely that the derailleur needs cleaning and oiling. As the bike hasn't been used for 3 years also oil the chain, check that the cable pulls the derailleur far enough. if it doesn't there the cable may need to be tightened. If the derailleur is not going back out far enough there's an adjusting screw which sets the limit. this may need adjusting.

Did you made sure the dark slide was removed? Check to see that the firing pins on the camera back are coming through the revolving bracket okay and that they are engaging the pin on the film back (left side). Is there film loaded? You can check without film if you have the multi-exposure lever engaged (red spot visible) and dark slide pulled out.

First the chain should be tightened properly before starting. When you pick up on the chain midway of the bar it should pull away from the bar about 1/4". The proper mix of oil & gas in the fuel tank & Oil for the chain in the oiler tankk is needed, If so, locate the on/off switch & turn it to "on". Pull the choke lever out. Depress the throttle trigger & engage the latch for the trigger. With the saw held firmly in place, pull the starter rope until the engine hits. Then move the choke to half & pull till it cranks. move the choke lever to the run position.

I can solve this i think but am pretty busy right now. It's also cheap and usually easy. If you can carefully open the shell (body) , with it unplugged of course,note where all the thin wires belong for when you put it together again. Assuming you have the projector open and on its back, look near the top, centre roughly. You'll see a white, thick gear that gets driven by a long worm gear/pulley that is driven by the motor belt. Above the thick gear is a silver-grey metal catch or "trigger" and resting on - or near it- will be a (usually) copper coloured thin metal "finger.

in normal operation this finger catches on the grey metal trigger which flips into position and catches the clutch built into that thick gear. When you activate the slide advance, the solenoid, for a moment, pulls the finger off the trigger which moves the triger which allows the clutch to engage and turn the thick gear, driving the mechanism. What's happening is that over time the light grease has thickened and the trigger is not engaging properly.

In some cases, all you need to do is just activate that slide advance a couple of dozen times, or let it keep advancing a few dozen times. You might try this before takign it apart. It selldom is enough but might be. usually though you'll need to look carefully to the pivot point of that grey metal trigger. If you have any contact cleaner for electronics (degreaser) get a little on and behind the rivent that holds that trigger and let's it pivot. With your finger, getnly rock the trigger back and forth. Repeat a few times if necessary as that cleaner evaporates quickly. If you don't have such cleaner, you can use a bit of WD-40 or alcohol can sometimes do the trick. Rubbing, not whiskey! Whatever you use to clean out the old, dried lubricant there, be careful not to let it get into other areas of the mechanism! Especially the WD 40 whihc has both grease cutter and oil. Oil in the wong places will give you bigger problems.
Eventually the trigger should move very easily and return to position quickly when you release it. Now you want to put a drop or two only on that pivot point, of the lightest oil you can find. Most easily accessed is light sewing machine oil.

You may decide to plug in the projector now -remove the lamp first. it is dnagerous at this point so be careful, or before you plug it in, put the shell cover back on. If you cover it hough, you can't see what's happening. In any case, run it, advance the slides via the remote preferably, a few times and unplug it.Hopefully it's stopped advancing continuously by now.


Take a look at the point where the "finger" engages the "trigger". You want to be careful not to bend the finger or things'll get out of whack.But IF you can (unplugged again!) spare just a tiny bit of grease from that thick gear, put just a bit on the trigger where the finger rests. If you can locate a clear coloured teflon added lubricant called Super-lube (also sold under at elast one other brand name I can't recall), that is the stuff Kodak used.

Reassemble carefully and try 'er out. If you run into any problems, give me a shout at [email protected] . Put Kodak in the heaidng so you don't get spammed out.