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Hi David:
Seems unusual to me that a boat (hull) ID number would be on something removable like a freeze plug.
Usually the serial number builder, weight, and load information is on the plate that you mention. It should be attached to a bulkhead or the transom, either inside or out.
Registration is typically handled by the Coast Guard or Gov't depending on where you are. Since they love to collect sales taxes, they also keep records, so if you can ID the boat by REGISTRATION NUMBER, they should be able to readily come up with the serial number.
If the boat was sold to you with all possible means of ID removed, I would personally be quite suspicious. Hope you know and trust the seller and can produce the Bill of Sale and proof of ownership.
I'm wishing you luck.
A visit to the nearest authority in your area, even the police, will get you started on resolving this.
Cheers.
Could be a poor electrical connection
Burnt out fuse will stop it.
The pump itself could be bad. If its twelve years old I suspect that could be the trouble. A number of things will stop it from running.
Unfortunately, there is no adjustment on the wheels of the DLX. However, you can often adjust it's alignment by ensuring that the weight of the golf bag is properly centered on the cart.
How weak and how do you know? This is a plastic boat AIUI and it will have some flex. Without examining the spot, I would say it is hard to do much without adding weight or ugly or both. Maybe a criss-cross of duct tape to reinforce if there really is a need, and you can reach it.
If it seems to run well otherwise, you might have a partially obstructed catalytic convertor. Usually if this is the problem, the engine will also bog down even if you try to rev it up when it is in neutral.
You can use a thru-hull transducer but a transom mount transducer will always interference with all of that water and alot of air bubbles moving under it at high speeds.
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