Question about Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Lid switch problem/how to remove top to repair it

Have determined that lid switch is my problem but do not know how to remove washer top to make repairs. Model #110 23832100

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The following link explains step-by-step how to replace a lid switch:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If you have any questions about this repair, or if you require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Jul 26, 2009

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Its pretty simple...remove two screws from the top councel. They are located on each corner of the councel an the back. Youll see them. They are two Philip screws. Well, after you take those two screws out, slide the councel foward and it should be able to flip it backwards upside down. then you will see two metal clips on eack side of the washer, get a flat head screwdriver and pop them out and them pull the whole cabnet towards you. Its like basically a big shell thats coming off. makesure you disconnect the lid swich connector before you pull the cabnet towards you. youl see it. and the jus place the cabnet in an open area and go under it and replce the switch. just do the reverse to put it back together..make sure you set the cabnet properly when you put it back on the frame or else the clips will be hard to put back on and if you force it on and its not set properly you will have alot of vibration during operation. Also make sure you dont kink up the hose that goes to your pressure switch when you put the cabnet back on the frame, because the pressure switch wont sense the water pressure and will keep on filling the washer and then youll have a flooded room. so yea, i typed a lot but its simple but make sure its set right and the hose isnt kninked. hope that helps..hope this didnt put you alseep either...

Posted on Jul 26, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

How to remove washer lid to replace lid lock


Remove power to the unit.
Locate the console and remove two phillips head screws. Most
models have them in the front, bottom of the console. In some of the newer models they are located in the back, bottom of the console. Some washers require you to remove two end caps on the console to access the screws.
After you remove the two screws, slide the console slightly forward and then up. The console will then hinge to the back of the washer.
With the console now hinged back, locate the lid switch harness.
Disconnect the harness and check for resistance between the 2 grey wires (outside) on the lid switch connector connected to top of washer. With the lid down the circuit should read no resistance. If the circuit is open(infinite resistance) then the switch needs to be replaced. You can also use a insulated jumper on the lid switch harness to determine if its the switch.
To replace the lid switch you will now have to remove the cabinet. Use a flat head screwdriver to remove the two clips holding the back of the washer to the outer shell of the washer.
Disconnect the lid switch harness(If not still disconnected).

You can now pull the outer shell away from the washer. Do this by
grasping the outer shell (I open the lid and grab it there.) and tilt the shell forward (toward you) and out. The shell is now removed and you can see the tub. Be careful not to bend the outside walls of the shell when removing and setting aside. This will help greatly when reinstalling the shell. Remove the 2 screws attaching switch to cabinet. Remove the screw connecting the ground on the cabinet. Use a flat blade screwdriver to push tabs on lid switch connector block to remove. Finally remove the whole harness from the 2 remaining retainer clips under the cabinet. Install new lid switch harness assembly and reassemble washer.

Apr 09, 2014 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Roper spin cycle


The "tab" you are referring to is connected to the lid switch. Symptoms of a defective lid switch may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, a wash tub that will not drain, and stopping right after the wash cycle and not advancing to rinse or spin cycles.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average price is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare. If the model number you posted this question under is correct, the part number for a replacement switch is 3949247.

HINT: If you have determined the lid switch to be defective and would like to use the washer in the interim while awaiting parts, you can make yourself a by-pass plug by following these steps:

1. UNPLUG the washer.
2. Remove the lid switch by following the instructions in the link I provided.
3. With the lid switch in hand, cut the white plug off the end, leaving about two inches of wire.
4. Cut the center wire (ground wire - usually green or green/yellow in color) flush.
5. Take the remaining two wires (usually black or gray in color) and splice them together using a wire lug.

You have now made your yourself a by-pass plug that you can re-use if necessary. Take the by-pass plug and plug it in to the timer connector and the lid switch is now by-passed.

CAUTION: You will need to turn the timer off in order to stop the washer now. Only use this as a TEMPORARY repair until you can replace the lid switch.

If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. The lid switch is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.

If this advice does not help you enough, repairclinic.com has a Repair Manual you can order to assist you with all your repairs. The part number is 1170635 and is priced at about $20. Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful.

Apr 28, 2010 | Roper RAS8445KQ Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Washer Machine not spinning nor pumping water.


Check your lid switch. This is the most common cause of the problem you are experiencing. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, a wash tub that will not drain, and stopping right after the wash cycle and not advancing to rinse or spin cycles.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average price is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare. The part number for the model you have listed is 8054980.

If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. If you determine the lid switch is still working, also let me know. This could be a sign of a more significan problem and I will need you to elaborate on any additional symptoms you may be getting. The lid switch is a very simple repair that you can easily perform yourself. I hope this information is helpful.

Mar 29, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

2 Answers

Washer fills up with water then it stops working


Check your lid switch. If the washer fills and agitates, but stops at the rinse cycle, this is a common symptom of a lid switch malfunction. The following link explains how to access and/or replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

If the switch is not activated by a lid strike, it will activated by a hinge actuator located next to either the left or right lid hinge. You will need to remove the operator console in order to access this type of switch.

NOTE: On this type of lid switch the lid hinge has a small rod that is used as an acutator to toggle the switch. In many cases, you can adjust the rod by bending it if the switch is not making contact.

If you determine the switch to be defective, a replacement can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all of them for the best price.

This is a very simple repair, that usually costs about $25 to $35 to repair yourself. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Sep 25, 2009 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...

1 Answer

I HAVE WHIRLPOOL TOP LOAD GSW9800PW2 WASHER, IT FILLS, THEN STOPS (SHUTS DOWN) UNTIL YOU SLAM THE LID DOWN MANY TIMES, THEN IT FINISHES EVERYTHING NORMAL


I would recommend you check your lid switch. Slamming the washer lid will only compound the issue and eventually will cause the lid to warp and additionally break the lid strike (if equipped). Due to the frequency of use, the lid switch does wear out and it is the most common cause of these symptoms. Its also an inexpensive repair. If the washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle or drain, this is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunctuion. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

If the switch is not activated by a lid strike, it will activated by a hinge actuator located next to either the left or right lid hinge. You will need to remove the operator console in order to access this type of switch.

NOTE: On this type of lid switch the lid hinge has a small rod that is used as an acutator to toggle the switch. In many cases, you can adjust the rod by bending it if the switch is not making contact.

If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If parts are needed, a replacement can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all of them for the best price.

This is a very simple repair, that usually costs about $25 to $35 to repair yourself. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Sep 24, 2009 | Whirlpool LSR5132J Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Kenmore 70 Series will not Rinse or spin


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

One way to check if the Lid Switch is bad is to by-pass it.

See GURU JSROCK516 Description of how to remove cabinet and access the transmission. http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase


Rather than removing the entire cabinet, just go through the process for removing the Console and up-plugging the lid switch.

Use a short piece of insulated wire and jumper the switch between the outer two contacts.

Lower the console and start the washer in the shortest cycle that you can.

After it fills part way, stop it and move the dial to the rinse cycle.

If it rinses and spins, the problem is in the switch which is basically held on by a couple of screws.

Of the washer still will not rinse or spin, the problem is likely in the timer.

Without knowing your model number, I couldn't tell you what a switch costs but it should be around $30.

If I'm correct in assuming that your model uses a switch with two screws, (check the Sears parts list for your washer under the Top and Cabinet category for the LID SWITCH) tightening the screws may solve your problem. The Diagram for the Top and Cabinet will show you where the screws connect.


Sep 24, 2009 | Kenmore 20722

2 Answers

My wsher agitates but does not spin or rinse


Check your lid switch. If the washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle or drain, this is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunctuion. I would recommend you check your lid switch first due to the frequency of use and the fact that it is the most common cause of these symptoms and least expensive to repair. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

If the switch is not activated by a lid strike, it will activated by a hinge actuator located next to either the left or right lid hinge. You will need to remove the operator console in order to access this type of switch.

NOTE: On this type of lid switch the lid hinge has a small rod that is used as an acutator to toggle the switch. In many cases, you can adjust the rod by bending it if the switch is not making contact.

If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If parts are needed, a replacement can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all of them for the best price.

This is a very simple repair, that usually costs about $25 to $35 to repair yourself. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Sep 24, 2009 | Kenmore 3.2 cu. ft. Plus Top Load Washer

1 Answer

My washing machine is filling up with water but not going through the rinse cycle.


Check your lid switch.

If the washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain, this is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

If the switch is not activated by a lid strike, it will activated by a hinge actuator located next to either the left or right lid hinge. You will need to remove the operator console in order to access this type of switch.

If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

A new lid switch (if needed) can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all of them for the best price.

This is a very simple repair, that usually costs about $25 to $35 to repair yourself. If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Sep 14, 2009 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top...

1 Answer

Kenmore washer model # 110 10502991 stops at the drain cycle, does not drain or spin. just completely turns off. what could this be and is it easy and cheap to fix? thank you!


Check your lid switch.

If the washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain, this is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

If the switch is not activated by a lid strike, it will activated by a hinge actuator located next to either the left or right lid hinge. You will need to remove the operator console in order to access this type of switch.

If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

A new lid switch (if needed) can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all of them for the best price.

This is a very simple repair, that usually costs about $25 to $35 to repair yourself. If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Sep 13, 2009 | Kenmore 22622 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

GE WSJR4160DOWN


You don't have to remove the washer top. Use a putty knife to push the tabs in on the left and right side, about two inches from the sides, at the top seam of the front panel. Front panel pulls forward and lifts off bottom pegs. Lid switch has a tab you need to push toward the center of the switch (its on the back side of the switch) which will allow the switch to push up. twist the switch and pass it back down through the washer top.

Oct 11, 2008 | GE WBSR3140DW Top Load Washer

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