Question about Maytag Washing Machines

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How do I remove tub from the transmission? I see a nut? with 8 tabs, but it won't turn?

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  • mike_harden Jul 26, 2009

    this is not an atlantis model...parts store says unit does not require special wrench.

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Is this a maytag atlantis? you nees a special wrench to take the nut of the transmission shaft. DOes it have the circular plate inside? you might need a special spanner wrench for thos and be carefull tho, becaus if this is the maytag model im thinking about, underneath the transmission there a plate with a bunch of screws holding it down...DO NOT UNSREW ANY OF THEM!!!!! if you do not habe the special tools for it you will get hurt because there is a thick spring tha is under 200 pounds of pressure under that plate(which is the stator plate) and if you start taking it apart it will shoot up and cause damage and even serious injury...i would look into the special tools you need.

Posted on Jul 26, 2009

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It's making a very loud banging noise in spin cycle


There can be any number of reasons for the tub slipping / jerking.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://beta.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieveModelDetails.pd?modelNumber=11092584100&productCategoryId=0153200&brandId=0582&brandDescription=KENMORE&modelName=WASHER&searchedModel=110.92584110

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

It's possible that the drive block and / or tabs holding the tub to the block are worn / damaged.

Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service Manuals for these washers:

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

I'd essentially pull the washer apart to check that everything is in place.

(IT'S NOT AS DIFFICULT AS IT MAY SOUND AND MOST FIXES ON THESE WASHERS AREN'T VERY EXPENSIVE)

See the following for a detailed description of how to do it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=75a4070beeb01ac4cd6c732ff4f740fc

NOTE:

You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench ($20) to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (about $9.00 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.

The problem does point to the drive block and/or the nut holding the tub to the block. The block is soft metal and easily damaged if the nut isn't tight. Also check the tabs on the tub to make sure that they fit into the notches in the block.


Jul 24, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore 110-24642300 Top Loader washing machine about 7 or 8 years old. A few weeks ago it started making a very load knocking sound as the motor turns the drum in the spin cycle. It turns the...


First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.24642300&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service Manual for these washers:

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

And the following for how to release the console, cabinet and pump, motor, transmission and tub.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=38167c09664cecf006774770a74cf9bc

DON'T BE ALARMED, THE ABOVE ARE REFERENCES AT THIS POINT. YOU CAN FIX IT. (THESE ARE RELATIVELY EASY TO FIX IF YOU TAKE YOUR TIME.)

The first thing to check is how well the tub is attached to the spin tube. Over time, the nut that holds the tub on may have worked loose. The description for how to pull the tub should help.

You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench ($20) to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (about $9.00 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.

If the tub is firmly attached to the drive tube, the next thing to check is the drive tube itself to make sure that it's not broken. Pull it (following the illustrated instructions and the Service Manual) and check it. Also check the pads / springs for the brake.

NOW FOR THE FUN PART.

If the tub is fine and the drive tube is fine, the problem could be in the gearcase itself. (It's a messy but not difficult job)

There are two plastic cams within the gearcase that lift the agitator shaft out of the way when the washer goes into spin mode. If the cams are worn (they don't have to be broken) they may not lift the shaft high enough (about 1/16") out of the way.

Also see the following for how the transmission works and the whirlpool parts list for the commercial washers (although the consumer models use the same gearcase.)

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Basically whats happening is this.

When the washer goes into spin mode two plastic cams are forced together and raise a gear on the main agitator shaft that is supposed to keep the agitators from spinning. If the cams are worn (not necessarily broken) the gear doesn't lift high enough to completely disengage the agitators. We had the same problem. Ours was a major gear noise but a clicking could also be a symptom. A set of Whirlpool Agitate Cams (part number 62580/01) cost about $15.00.

It's a bit messy to fix (15 oz. of oil in the transmission) but very inexpensive.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators.

The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. A 1/2" socket extension works well.

You don't have to remove the drum.

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, check the clutch bands and springs before going further. If they are worn, sears and Whirlpool have replacement spring / band kits. If they are fine, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft.

Remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15 Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil. (Available at auto parts stores)


Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

I'd also check the Motor Coupler (a $15.00 item that tends to wear) while you have the transmission out.


The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)



Apr 26, 2010 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Our kenmore elite washer makes a loud loud noise when spinning and the tub has alot of play from side to side when not running. Does this maching have a nut on the bottom holding the tub in place?


You can remove the agitator to see if it has a nut holding the tub on, but from what you are saying the transmission bearings are worn out. Loud noise and side to side play would indicate this. If the agitator does come off you can see if it has a nut that will tighten the tub down. I have never seen one as most are all one section tub to transmission. Keep me posted on what you find.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

Feb 04, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Kenmore 22642100 top load washer ... the clutch assembly is broken, so I will replace. but the tub is very hard to turn without the motor attached. Is this normal? or is something else froze up causing the...


First, see the Sears parts site for your washer.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.22642100

It's likely that the brake (which stops the tub) is engaged when the clutch / transmission is removed.

A tab on the brake is engaged by the clutch spring.

If you are going to pull the transmission in order to get to the clutch (Sears has a clutch rebuild kit instead of having to buy the complete clutch assembly), I'd pull the brake and drive tube assembly also to check the brake and springs.

Following is an illustrated set of instructions on how to pull the pump, motor, transmission and brake assembly.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=2b032a4fc7eb55782e68a26559e72e0a

In order to get the agitators out, you need to remove the "Spanner Nut" and "Drive Block".

Many instructions call for a special spanner wrench to remove the nut. However,

You don't need a special spanner wrench. (About $20 retail)

I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (About $9 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked around one of the tabs on the spanner nut and tapped the handle with a hammer to loosen it.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer (it's soft metal). Put a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap it up with a hammer.


Jan 10, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

How do i remove the tub on a kenmore series 90 washing machine?


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

To remove the tub, you'll have to remove the agitator(s), cabinet, the spanner nut and drive block.

See the following illustrated guide. You don't have to pull the pump, motor or transmission.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=bce33cd8b32f440a0adb6e8170d95aea

You also don't have to buy a special spanner wrench. I've used a short (10") pipe wrench hooked around one of the tabs on the spanner nut and by tapping the handle of the wrench, the nut should come loose.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap it up.

Make sure that the tabs on the drive tube align with the slots in the drive block when putting the washer back together.


Nov 14, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

My washing machine won't spin. I check the motor


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Following is the Whirlpool / Kenmore PDF on operation and maintenance of their top load, direct drive washers.

It has a good description of how the transmission works.

Following is the Whirlpool parts diagram for their commercial top load, direct drive washers including transmission parts and numbers. The parts for the consumer washers are basically the same.

We assume that something broke the coupler the first time.

I'd check to make sure that when you put the new coupler in, the six holes in the rubber piece lined up with the prongs in the plastic pieces.

If they did, the next thing to check is the transmission.

Following is a description of how to pull the transmission / gearcase.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

I found that instead of buying a special spanner wrench to remove the Tub Nut, a 10" pipe wrench opened fully and hooked to one of the prongs on the Tub Nut, giving it a quick tap with a hammer does well.

You really don't have to remove the drum and Tub Nut and drive block to remove the transission.

I'd pull the transmission and try turning the input shaft manually both ways, clockwise and counter-clockwise.

If it won't turn, it's likely that something in the transmission has broken and is jamming the main drive shaft.

There are a couple of plastic parts in the transmission. The Agitate Cams and the gear teeth on the main spin gear.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 16Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic agitator cams and the main spin gear.

The main spin gear is relatively expensive (Approx.$90 ) so if that is broken, you might want to consider a replacement transmission.

The Agitator Cams are only about $15,


Oct 03, 2009 | Kenmore 24902 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

LWR50AW 9904000131 is leaking from the bottom of the center of the machine. How do we take it apart to solve this problem? Thank you, Norma Marchant


Hi

You'll need to replace the transmission seal. For this repair job you’ll require special tools like T20 Screwdriver and other similar tools. You can disassemble the machine by following the steps mentioned below--

1. Remove the front panel (screws on each side)
2 Remove the two 3/8 screws pointing upward. This will allow you to lift the top up.
3. Remove the agitator.
4. Remove the spanner nut (requires tool and its left hand thread).
5. Remove the top off the outer tub (some snap off and some have a clamp all the way around the tub)
6. Remove inter tub.
7. Remove the set screws in the mounting stem (the treaded stem that the spanner nut was on).
8. Now with the same tool remove the mounting stem.
9. The outer tub is mounted to three legs. Remove the bolts that hold it on and remove the hoses from the tub. Once it is done remove the outer tub.
10. Remove the rubber boot.
11. Prop the tub up on something so that you won’t damage the stem that the drain hose connects to and step on the seal to push it out.
12. Turn the tub back over and install the new one the same way (may want to lube it with a small amount of soap).
13. On the transmission there is a metal sleeve where the tub sits, remove it. Now reinstall the new sleeve.
14. Reassemble the washer replacing the seal, boot, tub bearing, mounting stem and spanner nut.


This may help you--


166595c.gif

Also check the Drain pump and drain hoses inside the washer if they are firmly connected and not leaking. You can see this diagram for more details--


ceef0b1.gif

Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

Sep 20, 2009 | Amana Washing Machines

1 Answer

Where is the windshield wiper motor on a 2007 Dodge Caravan and how do I replace it?


Wiper Motor: Service and Repair
Removal
REMOVAL
The front wiper motor comes as a unit with a wiper pivot on each end and mounts to a shaft that holds these two inner pivots.
1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
2. Remove the wiper arms.
3. Disconnect the washer hose at the in-line connector located near the air cleaner housing.
4. Lift the cowl grille and disconnect the washer hose grommet from the hole in the wiper module. Pull the washer hose and the grommet
completely through the wiper module tub hole.
5. Remove the cowl grille.
CAUTION: Be careful not to scratch the cowl grille on the corner of the hood.
6. Remove the four brace nuts holding the wiper tub to the lower windshield fence.
7. Remove the four bolts underneath the wiper tub inner brace holding the tub to the bulkhead.
8. Remove all four inner support brace mounting nuts and pull the inner braces just free of the mounting studs.
NOTE: The wiper tub will drop down slightly.
9. Disconnect the driver and passenger side wiper link ends at the inner pivots.
10. Remove the two left wiper motor assembly mounting nuts.
11. Remove the two right wiper motor assembly mounting nuts.
12. Partially lift out the wiper motor assembly out of the wiper tub.
13. Disconnect the wiper motor electrical connector.
14. Remove the wiper motor assembly the rest of the way from the wiper tub and remove from vehicle.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wiper Motor: Service and Repair
Installation
INSTALLATION
1. Install front wiper motor assembly onto wiper tub.
2. Connect the electrical connector to the front wiper motor assembly.
3. Install the four mounting nuts. Tighten nuts to 9 Nm (80 in.lbs.).
4. Push the four inner support braces onto the studs and install the four nuts. Tighten the nuts to 9 Nm (80 in.lbs.).
5. Install the four bolts underneath the wiper tub inner braces that hold the wiper tub to the bulkhead. Tighten the bolts to 17 Nm (150 in.lbs.).
6. Install the four nuts holding the wiper tub to the lower windshield fence line. Tighten nuts to 7 Nm (65 in.lbs.).
7. Apply grease to drive link bushings.
NOTE: Make sure to use Mopar(R) approved grease.
8. Attach the driver and passenger side outer wiper linkage to the inner pivots on the front motor assembly and firmly snap into place.
CAUTION: Do not apply too much force to engage link bushing or damage can occur to the drive link bushing.
9. Position the cowl grille in place.
10. Install the washer hose and grommet into the wiper tub.
NOTE: Be sure to properly seat the washer hose grommet into the bottom of the wiper tub.
11. Connect the washer hose at the in-line connector located by the air cleaner housing.
12. Install the cowl grille.
CAUTION: Be careful not to scratch the cowl grille on the corner of the hood.
13. Connect the battery negative cable.
14. Verify that the wiper motor is in the Park position by cycling the wipers system. When done, remove keys from ignition.
15. Install the wiper arms.
16. Align the wiper arms and tighten nuts to 35 Nm (25 ft.lbs.).
17. Install the wiper arm nut caps.

f7c141f.jpg

Sep 13, 2009 | 2007 Dodge Caravan SXT Minivan New Cars

2 Answers

GE washer Model WDSR2080D5WW Transmission shaft wobbles


If you can't loosen the nut, you can break it with a hammer and a metal chisel. Tub nut is cheap. Grease on clothes = new transmission time.
By the way, after you remove the inner tub,.... you have to take the entire outer tub assembly out of the washer, flip it upside down, remove the yoke that holds the motor onto the outer tub, and pull the transmission out through the bottom of the outer tub.

Jun 11, 2009 | GE WDSR2080D Top Load Washer

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