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Dryer taking too long

How often does the high limit thermostat cycle the heating element on/off while in high heat operation?

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It does'nt. it is a safety feature. your operating stat is what cycles. the dryer your clothes get, the longer it will stay cycled off. please rate me.

Posted on Jul 26, 2009

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Dryer runs but doesn't heat.


The high and Low thermostatic limit switches must be in working order for the heating element to get power to operate. High limit opens in the event of a overheat condition to cut off the heating element. The low limit cuts on and off to control normal operation of the heating element for a more or less constant heat for drying.

Mar 18, 2014 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

No heat in dryer mode


In electric dryers, heat is generated by the heating element. The element is a coil of heating wire enclosed in a metal chamber. Electric current flowing through the coil creates heat and the air being pulled through the chamber absorbs this heat. If the element is defective then it will not heat. It can be tested with a multi-meter for continuity. Unplug the dryer and remove the front or rear panel to locate the element so it can be tested.
The high limit thermostat is a safety device mounted on the heating chamber and is designed to prevent the dryer from overheating when the exhaust vent is restricted. A restricted vent will cause the high limit thermostat to trip or activate, interrupting the circuit to the heating element or gas valve. The high limit thermostat is not designed to activate repeatedly like a cycling thermostat and will eventually fail causing a no heat symptom. Disconnect the power to the dryer and check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. If there is no continuity then it will need to be replaced and the restricted vent system corrected as well.
Cycling thermostats control the temperature inside the dryer drum. They are designed to "cycle" the heating element on and off to maintain the correct amount of heat. Cycling thermostats are normally located on the blower housing or elsewhere in the internal airflow ducting. Over time, the cycling thermostat can become defective. Disconnect the power to the dryer and check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter.

Dec 02, 2013 | Splendide 2100 Vented Washer-Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore dryer blows cold air. I replaced heat element still no luck? model 96263800


It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when an electric dryer stops heating. The heating circuit is not just composed solely by the heating element, it is composed by the thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, motor centrifugal switch, and the timer. The first thing to look at when an electric dryer stops heating is the thermal cut-off. It cuts power to the heating element when it blows most likely due to the failure of the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off must be replaced, together with the high-limit thermostat, if found open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this problem.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top and with Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating

Mar 25, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Where would the fuse be and how hard to get to, is it in the upper unit? From behind? or lower unit? Running but no heat.


The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

jahn27_42.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the front.

jahn27_43.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

Feb 01, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Model LEQ9508PW1. It has stopped getting hot. Just stopped putting out any heat. I assume that it is probably the heating element that has gone out. Is there anything else I should check first before...


Check first the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat located on the heating element housing by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then remove the rear access panel to access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect the power then start the dryer. The problem is in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make.

jahn27_43.jpg

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat up with the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat both bypassed. If the dryer still doesn't heat up, take the heating element out and inspect it for damage. Replace the heating element if damaged.

Jan 18, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Dryers tumbles but there is no heat


The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

jahn27_42.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the front.

jahn27_43.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.


Dec 31, 2010 | Kenmore 600 6965 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I have a thin twin stacking whirlpool washer/dryer. The high limit switch is kicking off the element within 2 mins of running. So heating element heats up red hot, then clicks off after 2 mins. I have...


I think you are on the right track with a faulty high limit switch. When i serviced these units we always replaced the operating thermostat and the high limit switch together they came in a kit. The operating thermostat in theory should never let it get hot enough to trip the high limit switch, which is really just a safety backup for the operating thermostat. Get the kit and replace both, and also make sure your exhaust vent going outside has good flow at the outside vent,a restricted vent system will cause similar issues.. Good Luck

Oct 07, 2010 | Whirlpool LTE6234D Top Load Stacked...

1 Answer

How do you replace the heat element on a whirlpool LER8648 dryer?


Before replacing the heating element, check first the continuity of the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat located on the heater box, the resistance of the heating element, and the continuity cycling thermostat located on the blower housing. Replace the heating element only when it reads open. Replace both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat should any one of them is found open. The cycling thermostat must have continuity between its thicker terminals; otherwise, replace it.

All of the above components are accessible through the rear of the dryer. Remove the rear panel by removing the screws securing i to the dryer cabinet. Replace the heating element by removing the screws attaching its housing to the heater box then securing the new heating element housing in place.

May 28, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

NO HEAT


The electric dryer heating circuit is composed of the heating element, high-limit thermostat, thermal cut-off, cycling thermostat, timer, and centrifugal switch. Parts may vary depending on the make and model of the dryer; specify it for a more specific advice. Disconnect power to the dryer prior to servicing to avoid the risk of electric shock.

The dryer will not heat when any of its components has failed. Check the continuity of the high-limit thermostat, thermal cut-off, cycling thermostat and the resistance of the heating element using a volt-ohmmeter. The heating element has a resistance range of 8 ohms to 12 ohms depending on the make and model of the dryer while the other three components must have zero resistances.

The timer and the centrifugal switch are less likely to cause a no heat problem and must only be checked when the components mentioned above are found to be in operating condition.

Again, specify the make and model of the dryer for a more specific advice.

Apr 11, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Crosley Dryer Heats then stops


If im thinking right, this dryer has the element in the top left corner.  This unit has two thermostats, one mounted right above the element, and the other in the lower left front mounted on the fan housing.  The one in the front is called the high limit thermostat, which means when it gets to a preset high temp, it cuts off the system until cooling occurs.  The top thermostat, mounted above the element is the operating thermostat.  It probably is one of the two thermostats.  Its a very good idea to replace not only both of the thermostats, but the fuse as well.  The fuse kit (Maytag Part# LA-1053) comes with a thermostat and 2 fuses, be sure to follow he instructions on how to determine the fuse for electric and gas.  The high limit thermostat (Maytag Part# 53-0771) is an easy replacement.  Something is causing the unit to short cycle.  Sometimes you can hot-wire the operating thermostat (use caution, severe caution if doing this, not recommended if you arent sure whats going on).  By doing this (removing the two wires from the thermostat, taping them together), you can watch and see if the element stays on longer, at least until the high limit switch comes on.  This is really not recommended, if the high limit is out, it will not be good.  Just easier to replace them both.

Oct 24, 2007 | Crosley CDE6000 Electric Dryer

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