What is an open neutral outlet how do you fix the problem

You may have an open neutral (center) wire in your 220V (or 240V) wall outlet (or where the wires go into your range). Your Electronic Oven Control (EOC) and light bulbs operate off of 120V, which it gets from one leg of your 240V outlet to neutral. You surface elements don't use the EOC, but are directly connected (when on) to both legs of your 240V Power. So unplug your range, and remove the access panel to your electrical connections at the bottom back of your range. Make sure the center screw that the white wire is connected to is tight. If that's okay, then the problem is probably in your electrical wall outlet, and you should contact an electrician to check it and fix it.

may be either defective outlet or mis-wired. Check to see if all three are on same circuit . If so, check wiring at the breaker. may be reversed (white to earth ground and neutral, black to breaker. Open up the outlet box and pull the outlet out (carefully ,open the circuit breaker first), then check with VOM. Voltage white to bare wire(earth ground) should be 0. Black to earth should be 120V. Black to neutral (other side of socket) should be 120.

NEUTRAL WIRE OPEN OR PARTLY OPEN ON PLUG OR AT PANEL OR THE POLARITY REVERSED ON OUTLET .

You've lost a neutral connection at: one of the terminals somewhere; inside the outlet; broken strap between the neutral pads on the standard outlet; or the tester is providing an erroneous indication.

Does it read OK on the BOTH receptacles of the first outlet? Check the terminals that provide output on the first outlet and the LINE terminals of the GFCI . Bad at the first outlet? Check the input on the first outlet. Bad? Check splices between outlet and service panel and neutral connection at neutral bus bar inside panel. OK? Check the input to the GFCI - make sure on LINE terminals and proper polarity is observed.

Double check the line and load terminal screws of the GFCI outlet. Make sure that the power coming into the GFCI is connected to the LINE terminals. Be sure to connect the HOT and NEUTRAL wires to the proper LINE terminals. Neutral conductor (white) connects to the silver colored screws and hot (black or red) connects to the gold colored LINE screws. If you are sending power out to supply additional loads that are to be GFCI protected, the rules above apply - but connect to the LOAD screws.

The "neutral" wire in home wiring is always the "white" wire. The hot line is always the "black" wire or in the case of a multiple conductor, can be just about any color but white or green. Green is circuit ground, the nasty 3rd pin on the plugs we use, but a very important safety feature.
When you have an "open neutral" reading it means that the "white" wire has come loose some place in your wiring. A broken or loose wire is referred to as an "open" in electrical terms. I assume you are plugging an outlet tester in and get this indication. It may just be in the outlet you are testing or someplace else between the outlet and the circuit breaker.

Hi,
It means that the neutral wire is not connected back to the braker box and no current can flow through it... the outlet is then trying to use the ground instead which it is not supossed to do... that is dangerous...

heatman101

An open neutral means that neutral, or common wire is not connected somewhere. If for example you test a outlet in a room, and the tester shows that you have an open neutral, Then somewhere along the circuit the neutral is not connected properly. In rooms most outlets are connected in series to each other, so if you have an open neutral in one outlet, it can affect all the other outlets too.

Hot/ground reversed means that the hot wire and the common wire are installed in the wrong order.on the outlet,you have a hot side (black wire)and a common side(white wire)and the hot wire is installed on the common side instead of the hot side and the common is installed on the hot side.This show up on the tester this way because the common and ground tie into the same bar in the panel.

Fix the open neutral first as this can show incorrect reading on the tester on all outlets after the open neutral.

Open wire...either ground or neutral.

Lights are 110volt...and possibly there is a disabling feature due to open wire, as stated above, not allowing oven to operate.

When ground and/or neutral are provided all should work.

open ground=ground wire (green) is not connected to the circuit box ground or to the earth ground.
(there should have steel rod place in the ground by the local electric company, and gtound wire is connected to that rod).
Open Neutral= same as open ground. unless you are testing 240V, which have 2 hot (110v) and a neutral (0V).
Open Hot= open 110v line (black)
hot/ground reversed= if you understand the above, then this sould be self explaintory.
same a hot/neu. reverse.

if you don't understand how electric wiring works, My suggestion is to stay out.

This is not really my area of expertise, but i would venture to say it has to do with your neutral wire in your outlets. If your house is older, the neutral, which is tied to the ground in the panel, was not sized to hold the modern electronic equipment. WIthout getting to technical, electronics create what are called noise and harmonics on electrical wires which is the static or "breaking up".

A larger neutral should fix it but that would involve at least rewiring that outlet with a straight shot to the panel and maybe upsizing the neutral in the panel. I would get an electrical engineer or someone who has worker with a lot of electronics opinion beofre you go to crazy though. A straight shot cable from your tv outlet to the panel should fix it though, i would bet.