nope ur wrong but thanks anyway. i looked at the schematic and saw the indicator lites as oppossed to burners come off neutral. the burners come of 2 110 lines. i opened up junction box and the wire nut holding the white wire was too small and 1 wire was hanging on by a thread. so the connection was off. i got a bigger 1 and it is all good!!!!!!!!!!!!nope ur wrong but thanks anyway. i looked at the schematic and saw the indicator lites as oppossed to burners come off neutral. the burners come of 2 110 lines. i opened up junction box and the wire nut holding the white wire was too small and 1 wire was hanging on by a thread. so the connection was off. i got a bigger 1 and it is all good!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Most likely the problem is in the heat control switch.Cannot be repaired you will have to replace it. To make sure, swap it with one of the other burners that do not have the problem. If the problem goes away, you know its the switch.
I have the same problem. I had a repair man here and he said the main powder logic board ( WB23T10014) was the problem, it would cost $757 to fix. I ordered the board for $230 and installed it myself but still have the F113 problem.
Sounds like a thermal switch which controls the hot surface light is stuck closed.
If this is a new unit, I'd return it. If not, I would check the switche(s) for the hot surface light -- when the unit is cold, unplug one wire going to the thermal switch and check it for electrical continuity. If you get current from a multi-meter through the switch, replace it -- it's not opening when it cools down.
if the hs ind light does not turn off then that particular heating elemnt needs to be replaced.heat sensor is built in the elemnt.when elemnt is turned off and it cools down it makes a switch to open and inturn ind light turns off.but sometimes thst gets stuck and light remains on.but do not worry abt element,it remains off,its just that indicator light that remains on.
the "hot top" indicator lamp is switched by a contact on the plate cut-out. sometimes this cut-out is available as a separate part but often must fit complete plate. by plate i mean the bit that gets hot!
nope ur wrong but thanks anyway. i looked at the schematic and saw the indicator lites as oppossed to burners come off neutral. the burners come of 2 110 lines. i opened up junction box and the wire nut holding the white wire was too small and 1 wire was hanging on by a thread. so the connection was off. i got a bigger 1 and it is all good!!!!!!!!!!!!
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