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Waring Pro Blender 51BL25 - reassembling glass jar and new blade

I had to order a new glass blender jar and blade assembly when my first one broke. Since they are separate parts, I need to assemble the blade onto the glass jar. I tried to do this once (no instructions received) and when I turned the blender on, the blade did not spin. It just tightened the blade onto the jar and made it difficult to remove. I now have it back in separate parts and don't dare reassemble until I have some instructions. I looked online for manuals and they consider this a "non-removable blade" so they don't give instructions.

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Posted on Nov 20, 2007

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SOURCE: Waring blender - new blade

I just figured it out. The key is you need to think in terms of keeping the blades and the large washers separate. Here's what you do.
Thread the blade through the glass and use the white rubber gaskets against the glass and the stainless gaskets against the hardware. Then tighten the whole enchilada to the blender with the main nut (that goes on the bottom outside of the blender). Then once that's nice and tight tighten the flange that catches the blender teeth to the remaining portion of the protruding threads. Make sure you use the copper colored gasket first then the stainless washer then the stainless flange. Tighten that real good and you should be good to go.
To check if you've done it right spin the flange. If the blades spin independent of everything else you're good to blend away!

Posted on May 24, 2008

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SOURCE: I recently needed to replace

Deb66, you may have found this already, but there is another thread on this site that addresses this same problem. . .

http://www.fixya.com/support/t409495-waring_blender_new_blade

I hope you haven't been blenderless for three months. . .

Posted on Jul 30, 2008

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SOURCE: 40 yr. old Waring blender

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Posted on Aug 05, 2008

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SOURCE: Replace clutch assembly Waring BB150 Blender

Remove the little rubber feed on the bottom of the base (they might be glued a bit so be careful not to rip them). This will reveal 4 phillips head screws...remove them...this will open the base and reveal the back site of the rotor. In the middle you will see a turban blade like wheel with a large flat tip screw. Wedge a large screwdriver between the teeth of the old clutch so that when you turn the flat tip screw it will stop rotating the other end. Turn the screw with some force to the right to losen the clutch...then do the reverse to get the new one on tight...put everything back together and there you have it.

Keep in mind that this might void your warrenty if you still have some on it.

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

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If you don't see a physical crack or stress line on the jar, the issue could be either the gasket or blade assembly - Waring doesn't list any parts for sale for this model, but you may be able to call them and get these parts. There are not very many reviews on this particular Waring, so I am working with very limited information (and this is just my opinion), but the few that I have seen suggest that this might be the worst blender Waring ever made (in general, though, their blenders are usually top-notch).

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Here's the parts order form from Waring:
http://www.waringproducts.com/ret/parts/

Once you receive the parts, unscrew the collar from the bottom of the jar, and the old gasket and blade assembly will pop out - sometimes you have to peel the gasket apart from blender jar, but not always.

-Tha Mp3 Doctor

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You can call Waring and they can send you a parts breakdown showing the order the parts need to be in. If you still have problems they can go over the assembly with you on the phone or direct you to a service center near you to help.

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It sounds like your blending assembly is shot, you'll have to order a new jar since the blade is not replaceable in this model.

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I know this is an old, old post, but I could not find a solution anywhere, so hopefully this will help someone. We have a model 51BL25, similar to scottman55's blender, and it had the same problem. There are two separate nuts in the blade assembly. One holds the blade on, and the other holds the seal tight. When the latter gets loose, the blender shakes and leaks.
To fix it, first you have to remove the top nut holding the blade on. I had to get in there with pliers, but a ratchet with an extension would be perfect. This nut is right-handed ("normal"). Once that nut is loose, you can remove the nut and the blade. You will also want to remove the washer immediately under the blade (take note of which side goes up).
Now, you can pull the whole axle out by the wheel on bottom of the blender. This exposes a really thin, flat nut. In my case, this nut had come completely off, so nothing was really holding the seal together at all. Again, make sure you remember which direction the nut goes -- it is not quite symmetrical. That nut is what comes loose when the blender starts leaking. By the way, it is a left-handed nut, so it screws on counter-clockwise ("backwards"). Screw it in tight, then put the rest of the blade assembly back together, and your done. If you have the right tools, it should take only maybe 5 minutes.
Depending on your problem/model, this may or may not solve your problem. Hope it helps!

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Waring blender - new blade


I just figured it out. The key is you need to think in terms of keeping the blades and the large washers separate. Here's what you do.
Thread the blade through the glass and use the white rubber gaskets against the glass and the stainless gaskets against the hardware. Then tighten the whole enchilada to the blender with the main nut (that goes on the bottom outside of the blender). Then once that's nice and tight tighten the flange that catches the blender teeth to the remaining portion of the protruding threads. Make sure you use the copper colored gasket first then the stainless washer then the stainless flange. Tighten that real good and you should be good to go.
To check if you've done it right spin the flange. If the blades spin independent of everything else you're good to blend away!

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