The drain pipe in the bathroom wall has no threads to connect a new pipe and is leaking since we installed a new sink. Is there any kind of ''christmas tree'' shaped adapter, something that would wedge into the drain pipe and have threads on the other end that goes to the sink basin. We cant afford to rip out the wall and replace the pipe right now, anything that could get us through until we can have it fixed properly?
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Re: bathroom drain pipe has no threads
As long as the pipe insidethe wall does not leak, then yes , you are on the right track. Bathroom drains are typically 1 1/4 diameter. A large nut and washer would go over the pipe coming from the wall. The nut and washer would mate up with a pipe that has threads on it. Typically, a trap is what connects to the wall drain, and the pipe from the sink connects to the trap. You need a trap in the setup so sewer gasses do not enter up through the drain. The trap "traps" water at the elbow which prevents these gasses from escaping.
There are drain parts for both brass and plastic pipe. Also, there are numerous configurations of drain piping that are available (home depot, Lowe's). Once you look at the various configurations, I think you will understand how the drain piping setup works. Once you put the pipes together and you have a joint leak, try using some Teflon pipe tape around the joint to seal it. Wind the tape in a clockwise direction (tighten). The plastic washers have a taper or bevel side which seats into the inner bell of the mating pipe.
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Most likely the problem is a leaking drain pipe in the wall, perhaps because of a failed joint. The reason it's not going down the wall to the floor of the dining room is because there is a top plate on the wall. Most likely the water is running down the bathroom wall, then out over the dining room drywall ceiling. It is finding the lowest spot in the area to accumulate and is soaking into the drywall. Since it is drain water, it is dirty and is picking up additional contaminates from the wall and causing the brown stain. It may or may not be soft, depending on how much water accumulates at one time, but it is slowly breaking down the ceiling where the stain is.
That said, are you sure it's a leak, or are you assuming that since you see the stain on the ceiling. I say this because mice, like many other rodents, usually pick one location to use as their bathroom. If you have mice in the ceiling and this is where they do their thing, you will get the same type of indication.
You have water hammer effect it is caused by a fast closing valve,it can be solved by installing a water hammer arestor in the plumbing line or maybe the water pressure is too high and a pressure reducing valve can be installed in the main water line.(the pipes in the wall are not secured properly that's why they vibrate)
open to drain pipes. remove the collars that hold trap on, sometimes you may need pliers or a pipe wrench to remove.install is reverse of removal the trap is there to contain the gases in drain pipe. if no trap. you will smell sewer water all the time. 1-1/4 for bathroom drains and 1-1/2 for kitchen sink drain.
You can't stop condensation or humidity in the house, especially in the bathrooms. A few choices: replace the hinges, or oil the hinges with WD-40. Install a vent fan (even though you have a window) and replace the pipes with PVC pipes. Metal drain pipes will always rust, because they drain water. Replace all under sink drain pipes with PVC
remove the waste fitting and clean off all the putty. Using a clear or white silicon put some under the waste fitting collar then insert it into the basin hole. Next put the washer and nut on and wind it up to about 1/2" from the basin. Using the silicon again put plenty on between the washer and basin ensuring complete coverage of the waste circumference. Hand tighten the nut until silicon pushes out from the sides of the joint. Finally tighten about 1/2 turn using water pump pliers.
Wipe off all excess silicon.
You can tighten a little more if the waste fitting is all metal but i'm guessing its plastic and it is possibly being overtightened.
****if its the tank supply line and one of the connections is leaking tighten the connection if stops done if continues to leak go to hardware ,home,or plumbing store for replacement $4-7 dollars turn shutoff valve off flush toilet to get most water out of way and disconnect line replace ****----if joint where valve is connected to main water feed if threaded try tightening connection if soldered will need to turn of water to bathroom or house and drain line and resolder connection same of pressure connection/threaded valve failure
Is it a new sink? Most of the time if it's new you'll have to get more pvc pipe because the new tail piece that comes with the new faucets usually is either longer than before or shorter. Yes you can get another tail piece or you may be able to by a longer pvc piece to to hook up the the metal tail piece. Make sure you have the plastic seals inside the pipe where they attach together or it will leak. Once you have it all together close your stopper and fill the sink with water and then pull the sink stopper and watch for leaks if it dont leak then it wont leak.
Tighten all connections first and see if you have a problem. If you still have the leak, then dry the piping under the sink (using a towel) from the sink downwards. Then fill the sink with water and then get under the sink and open the drain. Use a flashlight and feel for moisture with your hands. Start at the bottom of the leak and work your way upwards until you find the area where the leak is occurring. Often leaks appear to be at the bottom of the pipe but the leak can occur as high as the sink drain seal. Be sure to check the back of the piping for leaks. Once you find the leak, you can then determine the course of action to repair the leak.
Remove the hair strainer or pop up drain assembly if so equiped and using a basin wrench or two crossed screwdrivers unscrew the drain basket and remove from the tub. Clean the tub and the back side of the basket and apply a generous bead of plumbers putty to the backside of the basket and reinstall. Tighten it down squeezing out excess putty, wipe off excess putty and you are done.
Some people use silicone sealer in lieu of plumbers putty and it will work fine but is messier in my opinion and makes dis-assembly harder.