Question about GE JKP85 Electric Double Oven
My electric oven will not heat up. The control panal works----timer-bake -clock-numbers ect. Microwave works well too. Just when I tried to bake or broil oven does not heat! ?any suggestions? Thanks !
On appliances like this only the heating elements use 220 volts. things like the clock, fan, etc use 110 volts. That is why some things work and other do not. Start at the breaker, sometimes a double pole breaker will have 1 side tripped, but will look perfectly fine. switch the breaker all the way to off then re-set. If nothing changes follow the power to the appliance remove the panel and look for some fuses, check to see if any are blown. Also sometimes the microwave will have a separate power source even though its built in to the same appliance. So that's not always a good symptom to follow.
Posted on Nov 11, 2007
On these older ovens ther is usually always 120 volts on the elements at all times.
If you check across the element ends with it in bake you should read 240V. If not, there is a problem with the control. With the voltage drop you describe, it sounds like you are losing power on one line of voltage coming to the element.
Post back to let me know what you find out or if you have any questions.
Posted on Nov 24, 2007
SOURCE: GE Electric wall oven
Not sure I can help you but will certainly try. Certainly sounds like the heating element - if not possibly a blow fuse. If you have a tester as in a light tester or proper electrical tester you should be able to turn the element on and test to see if it is getting power. If it isn't it may well be a fuse in the wiring. A lot of ovens these days do not have fuses and rely on the mains having a Safety Switch. Taking this into account I would say it is the element which you will need to remove so you can obtain a new one. With elements on most ovens you have to remove them from inside the oven and sometimes have to remove the back panelling to get to the wires to disconnect them. When you do make sure the power is turned off. Hope this helps.
Posted on May 31, 2008
The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site.
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws.
Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement.
The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven.
If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock.
You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board.
On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced.
If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors.
Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
If the bake ignitor comes on (starts glowing) - check the amperage on the bake ignitor wires when it's on. If the ignitor is a round style - amperage should be 2.5-3A, if the ignitor is rectangular - 3 - 3.6A. If less
than 2.5A or 3A respectively - replace ignitor. If the ignitor does not come on - check the voltage on the ignitor, should be the line voltage 110-120v AC. Faulty gas valve is uncommon, but still a
small possibility. Ignitor part numbers for round style ones: 4342528, WB2X9154, SGR403, 5304401265;
rectangular styles: 12400035, WB13K21, WB2X9998, SGR412, NR020, 5303935066, 814269, 9753108.
Ignitors of the same shape (i.e. rectangular) are interchangeable, if you can splice the wires.
PS For your model number the original part number was WB13K4 or WB13K0004, which is a round ignitor, though on the breakdown a rectangular one is shown, so check carefully.
Posted on Jul 15, 2010
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1.Press the "Clear/Off" button on the control panel to reset the oven. This will clear the lock setting and unlock the door.
2.Allow the oven to cool to room temperature to avoid turning the lock on again during this heating cycle.
3.Reset the oven to the temperature you require to finish cooking by pressing the correct temperature control on the control pad.
1.If your GE Profile microwave won't turn on, unplug it, then plug it back in. A power outage may have occurred due to a power surge. Check your home's fuses and circuit breakers.
2.Set the clock of your GE Profile microwave. Certain models will not operate until you set the clock. Select the "Clock" key and type in the correct time.
3.Hold down your microwave's "Off" button. You may have accidentally hit the control-lock feature on your GE Profile microwave. Hold down the "Off" button for three seconds to turn the lock off.
4.If the sensors of your GE Profile microwave are not working correctly, remove the food from the machine. If the sensors detect food-surface temperatures over 200 degrees Fahrenheit, it will not work properly until the area cools down.
5.Contact GE Support if you are unable to resolve the issue on your own. Call the GE Support hotline or browse the help library on the GE website. You can also schedule a service visit on GE's website.
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