Question about Teac R1 FM/AM Radio

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Where can I buy the ac cable for the R1 Teac?

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  • Anonymous Mar 12, 2014

    The outside of the port is square, but there is a round hollow pin in the center. It does not take any modern cell phone antenna like CR9or MCX adapters. The center core wire of a coax TV cable seems to fit inside of the hollow pin, but no clue how I would use the braided wire to make that useful. HELP!

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  • 23 Answers

Thay can be bought on ebay an also if you take it somewhere like maplin thay will be able to advise you on a unerversal adapter

Posted on Jul 26, 2009

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1 Answer

Battery on 1999 r1 wont charge, changed battery and rectifier still not charging


Hi, Anonymous you may have a faulty alternator in order to check out any main electrical system, you have to start with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better, and be able to pass a load test if necessary. "WARNING" never plug or unplug any electrical connector with the engine running !!!
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you might have a faulty voltage regulator.
4. Make sure voltage regulator is "GROUNDED" and functioning properly, watch the video below on how to test a voltage regulator.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty rotor, follow step 6
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to a ground, the multimeter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 OHM'S. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/103-02-03-r1-mechanical-help/185605-battery-stator-rectifier-regulator-issue.html
2007 2008 Yamaha r1 STATOR FAULT not charging Regulator Rectifier location...
1998 1999 Yamaha YZF R1 Service Manual R1 Moto Data Project
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Oct 06, 2012 | 1998 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

1999 r1. Clocks flash on and off! When pulling front brake the bike cuts out! Had to run start the bike! Switched lights off and all! Made it back home!


Hi, Tom in order to check out any main electrical system, you have to start with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better, and be able to pass a load test if necessary. "WARNING" never plug or unplug any electrical connector with the engine running !!!
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you might have a faulty voltage regulator.
4. Make sure voltage regulator is "GROUNDED" and functioning properly, watch the video below on how to test a voltage regulator.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty rotor, follow step 6
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to a ground, the multimeter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 OHM'S. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Electrical issues RPM cutting out Speedometer not working
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/105-07-08-r1-mechanical-help/337078-engine-cut-out.html
1998 1999 Yamaha YZF R1 Service Manual R1 Moto Data Project
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Mar 14, 2012 | 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

My 2001 yamaha r1 is not holding battery charge


Hi, Anonymous in order to check out any main electrical system, you have to start with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better, and be able to pass a load test if necessary. "WARNING" never plug or unplug any electrical connector with the engine running !!!
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you might have a faulty voltage regulator.
4. Make sure voltage regulator is "GROUNDED" and functioning properly, watch the video below on how to test a voltage regulator.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty rotor, follow step 6
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to a ground, the multimeter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 OHM'S. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/4-mechanical-help/14626-r1-charging-system-part-1-long.html
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/4-mechanical-help/14627-r1-charging-system-part-2-long.html
2000 2001 Yamaha YZF R1 Service Manual R1 Moto Data Project
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Aug 22, 2011 | 2001 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

1999 yamaha r1 elctrical problem , lights and gauges go off then come back on when pressing any button on handle bars or pulling in brake lever


Hi, Tom in order to check out any main electrical system, you have to start with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better, and be able to pass a load test if necessary. "WARNING" never plug or unplug any electrical connector with the engine running !!!
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you might have a faulty voltage regulator.
4. Make sure voltage regulator is "GROUNDED" and functioning properly, watch the video below on how to test a voltage regulator.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty rotor, follow step 6
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to a ground, the multimeter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 OHM'S. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/4-mechanical-help/14626-r1-charging-system-part-1-long.html
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/4-mechanical-help/14627-r1-charging-system-part-2-long.html
1998 1999 Yamaha YZF R1 Service Manual R1 Moto Data Project
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Jun 15, 2011 | 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

Battery wont hold a charge and lights flicker


Hi, Natrav in order to check out any main electrical system, you have to start with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better, and be able to pass a load test if necessary. "WARNING" never plug or unplug any electrical connector with the engine running !!!
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you might have a faulty voltage regulator.
4. Make sure voltage regulator is "GROUNDED" and functioning properly, watch the video below on how to test a voltage regulator.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty rotor, follow step 6
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to a ground, the multimeter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 OHM'S. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/4-mechanical-help/14626-r1-charging-system-part-1-long.html
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/4-mechanical-help/14627-r1-charging-system-part-2-long.html
1998 1999 Yamaha YZF R1 Service Manual R1 Moto Data Project
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Oct 22, 2010 | 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

1999 R1 HIGH RESISTANCE IN HEADLIGHT CAUSING INSTRUMENT CLUSTER TO GO OUT AND OIL LIGHT TO COME ON BATTERY GOES DEAD AND THE BIKE WONT START ANY ANSWERS THANKS


Hi, Tom in order to check out any main electrical system, you have to start with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better, and be able to pass a load test if necessary. "WARNING" never plug or unplug any electrical connector with the engine running !!!
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you might have a faulty voltage regulator.
4. Make sure voltage regulator is "GROUNDED" and functioning properly, watch the video below on how to test a voltage regulator.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty rotor, follow step 6
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to a ground, the multimeter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 OHM'S. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/4-mechanical-help/14626-r1-charging-system-part-1-long.html
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/4-mechanical-help/14627-r1-charging-system-part-2-long.html
1998 1999 Yamaha YZF R1 Service Manual R1 Moto Data Project
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Oct 07, 2010 | 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

Need to purchase battery pack BP-R1 for Teac R1 radio


Teak does no longer carry this specialty item. They do not stand behind their product and deserve to be bypassed in the future.

Oct 07, 2010 | Teac R1 FM/AM Radio

1 Answer

How do i change my 1999 r1 clocks from kph to mph ????


if it has a mechanical cable you can buy an adapter that fits between cable and speedo which converts kph tp mph, try this site www.mandp.com

May 27, 2010 | 2000 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

R1 not charging battery 2001 model


Hi, Tom in order to check out any main electrical system, you have to start with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better, and be able to pass a load test if necessary. "WARNING" never plug or unplug any electrical connector with the engine running !!!
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you might have a faulty voltage regulator.
4. Make sure voltage regulator is "GROUNDED" and functioning properly, watch the video below on how to test a voltage regulator.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty rotor, follow step 6
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to a ground, the multimeter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 OHM'S. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/4-mechanical-help/14626-r1-charging-system-part-1-long.html
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/4-mechanical-help/14627-r1-charging-system-part-2-long.html
2000 2001 Yamaha YZF R1 Service Manual R1 Moto Data Project
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Oct 05, 2009 | 2001 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

Re: setting clock and stations


Is there a reset button on it

Jan 31, 2009 | Teac R1 FM/AM Radio

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