Trane XR15 not starting. Has power. There is a contact switch that when engaged the system fires up but coil gets cold but not circulating through the air handler. Could it be capacitor related?

With the AC control is set to maximum coldness, you should be able to hear the familiar clicking sound of your AC clutch engaging. The clutch engages with a signal from the AC pressure switch, which reads the pressure level of the system. When the level drops too low, the pressure switch will not activate, and therefore the clutch will not engage. Without the AC clutch engaged, the system will not work and will not be able to circulate even the low amount of refrigerant it may have.
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If the unit is running in cold weather than there is ice building up on the coils located outside. This is normal in that the unit is running in heat pump mode heating inside and cooling outside, After the unit detects the ice build up it briefly reverses the cycle heating the outside coils melting(defrosting) the ice which you observe as water on the pad.

The video gives you an example of the defrost cycle!
2012 Trane XL15i Heat Pump Defrost Cycle Steam Show

Heaters tend to have safety features to make sure they don't start fires. Depending on the particulars of your heater, some things to consider:

1. Most heaters have a tip sensor, so that they'll turn off if they are tipped over. If it's tipped right now, put it level and see if that helps. you might also try tipping it (while unplugged) through a wide range of angles, see if you can hear a switch engaging/disengaging, or something like a pendulum making contact with a wall. If that switch is stuck or mis-aligned, that may be the issue.
2. If the heater has a fan to blow air in the room, see if the inlet side of the fan is clogged with dust bunnies or an inadvertently dropped rag. Or if it's been backed against something that may be blocking the inlet. No air going through to move heat away is an overheat danger and possible lock-out.
3. If the heater has a pivot to turn the outlet side to side, see if it is impeded or blocked. If the pivot is engaged and the swinging head hits something, it can tip the heater over. Run into something, stop moving, probably shut off the heater.
4. Heater usually has some sort of thermostat, or level-of-heat setting. if this sensor is defective, it may think that the system is too hot, and shut the system off. Many systems like this will be rigged to shut off if the sensor fails or goes open circuit, so that a defective or broken temp sensor doesn't just register as 'really cold, ramp up the heat power' and cause a fire.

Hope this is useful to you!
D

Replace the ignition switch. Bad contacts in it. Heat and cold affect them. The tabs in it are spring loaded. Sometimes the spring get hot and will loose their spring. When it is cold the spring contacts enough not to get good contact. Heat expands it.

indicates over voltage to the coils
failed resistor or problem in the ECM is allowing excessive voltage to the coils

the coolling in a refrigerator occurs when the compressor forces freon thru the system and the expansion of gas in the coils of the freezer takes heat away thus cooling the fridge. if no cooling is happening then the compressor is not running, the freon is to low on the charge, or the small "cap" line from the compressor to the cooling coils is blocked. Unfortunately the compressor is the most expensive part of the refrigerator and if it has stopped this can be a expensive problem. there is a few other things that can make the compressor stop. there is an overheat protection device on the side of the compressor that once in a while opens up thus no electrical power to the compressor and no cooling. the other part that can fail is the cold control thermastat. if this opens up the fridge can't start the compressor because the open condition of the cold control never "calls for cold". the other simple thing that can stop the cooling is a totally frosted up coil condition. the air can't circulate around the coils so no cold gets to the inside of the fridge. simple test step one unplug the fridge for 10 minutes then plug back in. Do you hear the motor in the bottom run? If it runs wait ten more minutes and put your hand into the freezer compartment. Do the sides feel cold? if the motor (compressor) in the bottom runs but freezer doesn't get cold then the system is defective and there will be no easy fix. If the freezer does show cold then the problem could be with the "evaporator" fan that circulates cold. this is an inexpensive part and can be replaced at a reasonable cost.

the clutch on the air compressor coil is proably burnt out. disconnect electrical plug at end of air compressor and supply current direct from battery to see if clutch engages, if it does not, change thecoil clutch switch.

Hi,
The problem is probably with the circulator pump or the zone valve, which ever way your water circulating from the boiler is controled.
The water needs to be moved through the boiler and the coils in the Hot water maker to heat water. If this is not happening then no water will be heated.
Check for power and then is the pump is running or the zone valve opening.
I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!

Thanks for using Fixya!!

Heatman101

high limit is open try tapping on it gently

Hello B-N-L:

>>I Suggest you Check the Ign Module First and then the Safety Switches if the Ign Module (Coil) is Good. Remember that the Ign Module May Check Good, but if the Safety Switches Check Good, then Most likely the Coil is in the Early Stages of Breaking Down and will Cause this Problem.
>>You can Check the Ign Module (Coil) by Using the Following Instruction File.
The Following is an Instruction File I Made for Checking and Repairing this Problem.
>>Run the Engine Until it Quits, then Remove the Spark Plug. Wrap a Wire Around the Threads and Attach the Other End of the Wire to the Engine Block Turn the Engine and See if the Plug Fires.
>>If No, then Disconnect the Shut Off Wire at the Control Bracket First, Check for Fire at the Plug. If Still No Fire at the Plug; Then Disconnect the Shut Off Wire at the Coil (usually requires removal of the blower housing) and Check for Fire at the Plug.
>>If No Fire at the Plug , then the Coil/Ign Module is Bad. The Coil/Ign Module to Flywheel Gap is .020in.
>>On Some Model JD Engines, there is a Igniter that Goes Bad and Not the Coil. The Igniter is the Same as an Ignition Module. If the Plug Fires at Anytime During these 2 Checks, then a Safety Switch or Wire May be the Problem. Yes the Engine will Turn Even with a Bad Seat Safety Safety Switch. Usually if the Engine will Not Turn with the Ign Switch; the Blade Safety or Neutral/Clutch Safety Switch is Usually the Cause of this.
>>The Starter Turns and the Engine Doesn't Fire is an Indication of a Bad Coil/Ign Module or a Faulty Blade Safety Switch.
>>The Blade and Clutch Safety Switches Prevent the Starter from Engaging so the Blades or the Mower Does Not Move when the Starter Turns the Engine.
>>The Seat Safety is Designed to Stop the Engine if the Blades are Engaged or the Clutch Safety is Not Engaged when you Leave the Seat.
>>The Following is an Instruction File for the Safety Switch System. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>The Color Code of the Wires May be Different than those I Use as a Reference in the Instruction File.
>>**PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHECKING THE SAFETY SWITCHES IS JUST THAT!!! FOR CHECKING ONLY.
>>I NEVER Suggest a Mower be Operated with a Safety Device or Switch Disconnected or Bypassed.
>>**Now. On Some Model Mowers you can Simply Unplug the Safety Switch from the Harness. On Other Models you have to Place a Jumper Wire Between the Harness Terminals (on the 4 Post Switch (Clutch/Brake) Jumper from Same Color Wire (Example: White to White) First and then Check for Fire, Now Include the Black to Black Wires if No Fire.
>>Check the Clutch/Brake and the Blade/PTO Safety Switches First.
>>Check the Seat Safety Last. Usually the Seat Safety is Not in the System for Starting the Engine. Just to Ensure Someone is in the Seat when Engaging the Transaxle and/or Blades. Use a Paper Clip or a Short Wire to Make a Jumper.**
>>Use a Volt/OHM/Continuity Meter and Check the Continuity of the Switch. The Meter should Show when the Contacts are Closed and Open. The Meter will Swing All the Way Over when the Switch Contacts are Closed and Swing Back to the Rest Point when the Switch Contacts are Open.
>>If the Safety Switches Check Good, then Check the Ign Module (Coil).
>>Thanks.

Respectfully

John