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The green switch wire is dead - Dynex 400-Watt ATX CPU Power Supply

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Check your solider but if thats not it I would get another PSU..

Posted on Jul 26, 2009

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2010 equanox wont start no spark, no fuel, no starter. all fuses, relays, and and ignition switch are good


no car with A/T starts if it cant CRANK.
my stick car , push starts and gravity hill starts easy, too.
but not yours.
are head lamps dead, anything else dead, key on?
step 2 is (after key turn) is jumper cable starts.
ever do that, no, then call AAATOW>
or try to crank in NEtural as the operators guide tells how.
ok fuses good, we test them....

no cranks. 101 (i use a voltmeter and dont guess)
  1. battery just discharged or bad.
  2. battery lugs green with corrosion.
  3. battery cables all 4 ends loose, 1 or more.
  4. starter bad, if hotwire test fails now.
  5. starter ok hot wired, key line is dead.
  6. key line dead , PRNDL switch bad. or wire to it, (aka TRS )
  7. bad wires end to end, all this section,. key switch last.
if you read your cars starter schematic you can see all this.
its very simple system, unlike EFI.

got a meter?

Mar 26, 2017 | 2007 Chevrolet Chevrolet Equinox LT

1 Answer

Turn signal & flashers stopped working on '95 geo tracker 2wd, 5 speed.


old post 95 tracker.
ALL four corners dead and dash (warn lamp dead) in cluster
do you hear i flash, click click????
first is fuses, but there are 2 .
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/95%20electrics/all-lamps95b.pdf


page 2 see that.
are the 2 blink/has fuses good. test good not just LOOK good
after all if a feed is shorted you will blow both. (tested)

the blinker module ,usually dont fail
its electronic and robust.
fuses good, then
the black wire ground cut or rusty a body
G200 it uses, and if bad usually kills the engine.
yellow-white must be 12vdc blinks on. key on
switch is bad. i bet this is ok
the relay green is OUTPUT
if the blinker has power it clicks
if it green wire flashes with test lamp the blinker module is good
if the output of the blinker switch is dead L and right
the switch is bad.
assumes both left and right sides not shorted. to ground.

Feb 16, 2014 | 1995 Geo Tracker

2 Answers

Geo Metro Turn signals not working. Replaced the turn signal relay switch but that did not correct it. Is there a way to decipher the problem without taking it into a mechanic as I do not have the finances...


Ok issues 1 and 2.
all 4 LAMPS fail, you didnt say?
does the emergancy flasher flash 1 or 4 lamps.
Emg.has its OWN fuse too.......
not stating this ,makes help , very hard.

suz, parts are expensive , just like shop labor.....
are you saying 4 new lamps is overbudget? really?
but diagnosis is free with a DMM. a $20 tool got it?
the first step in all electrics , are the fuses all good>?

first off , it can only be 3 things, Macro analysis.
1: bad lamps. (they open and short , replace 1 by one to find the shorted one, test lamps across the car battery with gloves/goggles.
2: bad wiring, trailer wiring from H3LL? look , inspect all blinker wiring. all 4 corners for collision damage or the work of hackers.
hackers are like , trailer wiring , jokers, do horrid damage.
LOOK , you see non stock wiring, bingo its HACKEd.
fix that, and win, make it like new, and well, it might last.

3: that leaves the combo switch and blinker module.
the module fails rarely, sad you guessed this first. its dead last.
a good module MALFs if it loses power or ground,that\'s not its fault.
The module good, malfs if the lamps are open or shorted.
it takes 1 good lamp on each side for the module to work.
if all lamps are removed and the module clicks this is normal
on modern car, (electronic module, some are silent "transistors")

so to find this easy, after the wiring inspection and fuse checks.
what do you do, i guess no DMM so we work tool free.
until needed.
1: remove all 4 lamps.
2: test them all with a battery. do the all glow? easy huh?
if the base is loose they are trash, and will short and make a fire, or blow the fuse. do not use are test shorted lamps...
if youput a shorted lamp across a batter it will melt the test wires.
that is why the FSM states, and I quote, use a fused jumper wire
with an inline 15amp fuse, these are all facts and reality.

3: if the filament looks open , then okay, it is , more trash.
4: next try just 1 lamp at a time inserted in each corner of car.
1 good tested lamp.
does if flash when asked, buy the blink lever or Emergancy main switch? yes or no.
yes, then put then rest back in 1 at a time, and see that they all work. do they or did the fuse blow, (shorted lamp)

no? flash, ok, leave that 1 lamp in.
at this point only tools solve this riddle, that tool is a DMM.
it costs $20 whole bucks,
set the dial to volts. if a fixed ranged meter use 20v range.
the car has a wiring diagram.
if you like doing car repairs book free, or alldata dot com , free
you will fail, i do, and have vast experience (retired puke i am)
there is one more way , sans meter. to solve this riddle
that is called hot wiring.
you look at the diagram of the flasher system.
I will call the blinker module, just the module.
see link here..... the real deal....
http://www.fixkick.com/look/blink89-94-metro.pdf
it is simple....
it a serial chain, a serial circuit.
if the this chain is broken the lamps are dead.
I use a volt meter, always, but if not having that.
you can hot wire this circuit with risks, (why i use a meter)
i will the hot wiring from simple to hard,
the schemic above clear.
find the blinker combo switch pig tail connector.
its below the column (steering (between knee caps)

the left blinker out. is
Green-red that means green body red stripe !
dots mean nothing here.
I hot wire that wire and the left side of car glows.
ok lamps and wires good, i body
hot wire, Green /yellow at combo connector.
the right side glows as I hot wire, ok, right side is 100% good.
now we go to the combo solid greenwire (all USA colors)
this is input to the combo blinker,
if I move the lever left , left glows, and if I move right, right glows,
no, not blink, glows......!!!
ok we have the problem and is in the dash and not the body blink wiring. all in 5mins work.
easy huh> (I use back probing probes and fused jumper as the FSM clearly states, no burned fingers from on fire wires. not me,.
how about you?
I hot wire, green wire (solid) at the module.
Module means the 3 pin blinker modules, some cars this is hard.
i hot wire the green and the above green test is the same here.
I then how wire the module yel/org/blue wire.
this is 12v input.
if the lamps blink now, key off, on demand (lever action)
then the combo binker switch is bad.
to prove that (did above) then you hot wire the models solid yellow wire, and the blinkers are dead,
yes? then the combo is dead.
no? they blink then the fuse was blown all alone.
the 10am fuse with the yellow wire. is blow, its IGNITION ON.
or if the fuse is blown the the ignition wire to this fuse is blown.
but if car runs, its not a bad ign, on wire.
if you have a volt meter all this is more simple and safer.
you measure the voltage,
and see pulsing 12v at lamps.
see 12v at yel./org,/blue at module.
and 0v on the modules black wire when blinking, if not 0v
the ground is broken.
you then move the meter to green module wire, it must pulse
blinking is 0v, 12v,0v,. 12, repeated for ever.
if the blinker has 12v at 12v pin key on, and ground is 0v and the output is 0v solid the blinker module is bad.
if the voltage is low, the body wires are shorted.
if the blinker Green wire pulses, and the lamps dong glow.
then the combo Gr/R /G/y , Green switch is dead.
if the green toogles, pulses keyon, at combo connector green
and the 2 ouputs are dead, the switch is mangled inside.

that is it. I showed 2 ways, and not guessing. the 3rd.

sorry for long post but you , needed both ways of 3.
i skipped guessing, way 3.

Sep 23, 2013 | 1992 Geo Metro

1 Answer

Unit will not stay on programed stations every time turn on have to set a station to listen to


Hi Jackie,

This is usually the result of connecting both ORANGE and RED 12VDC (+) wires to a "switched" source (meaning it is powered only when the ignition is in the on / run / accessory position).

The radio instructions specify the following connections:

Orange = +12V constant
Red = +12V switched
Black = ground
Blue/white = remote on
Green/Black = Left Front -
Green = Left Front +
Grey/Black = Right Front -
Grey = Right Front +
Black/White = Right Rear -
Grey/Red = Right Rear +
Black/Green = Left Rear -
Green/Red = Left Rear +

If you disconnect the ORANGE wire from whatever you have it currently connected to - and connect it directly to the battery's 12V (+) terminal (or other source that has 12V (+) with the key removed), your station memories will be retained.

Leave the RED wire where it is, so that the radio will shut off whenever the key is taken from the ignition - and you won't be stuck with a dead battery in the morning.

Good luck!

Sep 17, 2013 | Pioneer DEH-245 CD Changer

1 Answer

Where does the ignition switch and fuse panel get its power from? 4 dead fuses, not blown.


I have found with these Crown Vic's,especially police cars,they manage when the get in accidents to hit the right front of the cars and when they do they damage the wiring harness. The rain,salt,snow get in the harness and you eventually have problems. Look under the car in front of the right front tire and you'll see. Good size wiring harness. Look at it for damage,or sometimes you'll see like a light green dust coming out of the harness. Usually where I find my breaks,shorts or opens.

Apr 06, 2013 | 2004 Ford Crown Victoria

1 Answer

Wnt start


There were concerns about lurching on start-ups and the Manufacturers developed safeguards to prevent this. On some manual transmission models there is a safety switch on the clutch pedal lever. On automatics, it is a switch on the Brake pedal lever.

Sometimes named the "Boo" switch, it sends a signal to complete the starter solenoid circuit. You will notice the Brake lights are out on the automatic models.

Without this signal, the starter circuit will be quite dead. It is common to be broken or misaligned when a Drivers' foot hits this switch. As for the green/purple wire-free wiring diagrams are available from Autozone.com when you register with their site. Their site has both free and pay info at the bottom of their Homepage help section.

Please rate my info.

Mar 05, 2013 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 1999 dodge caravan,alternater wires are dead even with key on,where to look to fix prob,large wire is hot but two small ones are dead


The large black and gray wire goes to a fuseable link.
The dark green wire goes to the PCM.
The dark green and orange wire goes to the ASD relay.

Sep 12, 2012 | 1999 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

Dead Battery and clicking noise from passenger side fuse box back up lp relay.


Hello! The Automatic Trans-axle Internal mode switch (the switch that changes states when you shift to reverse) is more than likely the culprit...The relay that is clicking is receiving a ground as if you are backing up...That ground could also be in the wiring itself but the switch is the most probable cause...The wire colors in the connector plug to the switch are...Dark Green/White...Red/Black and Black/White...With the car in Park there is probably a ground on the Dark Green/White wire...I would suggest changing the switch...Guru...saailer

Mar 10, 2012 | 2002 Chevrolet Impala

1 Answer

Died. nothing comes on, so not dead drive. switched out power supply, so not dead power supply. the switch on the front - blue led only comes on when plugged in lower right two prongs of 8 (4x4). So, tried...


short power switch pins on mother board, reset bios, short green wire to black wire on ATX connector with all drives etc.. power cables disconnected to test power supply. i suspect you have a dead motherboard.

Jun 20, 2010 | eMachines ET1161-01 PC Desktop

2 Answers

My relay switch keeps tripping and resetting when the key is on, resulting in a draw on the battery and funny running until the battery is dead. I replaced the key ignition but the problem is still there.


You have a dead short somewhere in your wiring. You need to track down the short to resolve this issue. Start by determining which breaker keeps tripping. If it is the main breaker the fault will most likely be in the wires coming from the ignition switch the rest of the breakers. If it is the breaker with gray wire from the ignition switch it will be in the ignition/starting wiring. If it is the breaker that is connected to the gray wire from the ignition switch through a brass bridge bar the short will be found in the horn, turn signal, warning lights, or brake light circuits. If it is the breaker that is connected to the green wire ignition switch it will be in the running lights circuit.

Jun 15, 2009 | 1979 Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster

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