Question about Juki TL-98Q

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Clicking noise and drag while free-motion quilting

I am still having problems with my Juki 98qe. I use it exclusivley to free motion quilt and use my walking foot for bindings. No problems when using the walking foot but major probs using free motion. I took it to repair shop because it was making loud clacking noise. He fixed the timing. I took it home and it worked for a little while and then the clicking was back. I bought some oil from my repairman and he showed me where to oil near my bobbin case and in other areas--even though I had just done it. Now, the clicking noise is back and while quilting it is as though the fabric is dragging and it is difficult to pull through. I have been quilting with this machine for over a year with no problems until now. I noticed there is a disc between the tension knob and the machine and it looks like it is loose. I didn't notice it before so I don't know what it should look like. Please help as I want to try to fix this myself or avoid it again if at all possible. Like I said I use this machine without problems for over a year, so I think it is a problem with the machine. Thanks

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  • Paul Howell
    Paul Howell May 11, 2010

    If you take the thread out of the top and bottom and lower the presser foot, does it still make the noise? If you then insert the bobbin case with an empty bobbin does it make the noise?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: frame quilting with janome 1600 db

am I right that the feed dogs do not drop on this machine?

Yes, this is correct....but you have to change the needle plate to a thicker one, so the feed dogs will be below the needle plate.

Posted on Feb 23, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Free motion quilting Viking Designer 1

I had the same dissatisfaction when I switched from the 1+ to the Designer 1. After some trials I am now happy. You need the springy free motion foot. Part #413 03 76-45. You take off the white shank and screw it on with the metal bar over the needle hook. In the set menu turn the SensorQ on, the free motion on, select stitch 1 from menu V and drop the feed dogs. It also makes a big difference to use the straight stitch throat plate which just has a small hole for the needle to go through. One other hint is that I often have to reduce my needle tension 3 or 4 steps. Hope it works for you.

Posted on Jul 02, 2008

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: needle thread breaks while quilting on machine frame

I think you might have better luck if you use 40 or 50 weight thread.

Posted on Dec 20, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: quilting

Janome now has a darning foot ie it looks like an embroidery foot with a spring designed for the 1600 models. It is metal with a ring where the needle goes down through it. I removed the plastic lens inside the ring and this seems to have resolved the problem.

I usually pull my threads to the top so I can see where they are and not getting tangled underneath.
There are several good groups on Yahoo groups which offer support for starting out on quilting

Posted on Jun 05, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: Needle Thread breaking after about 30 seconds of quilting

Are you threading it correctly? I've had this problem twice, the first few times the thread was wrapped around different items (below the spool holder and then around the needle) the other times I threaded it wrong. Double check that the machine is threaded correctly with the manual. I've missed a step here or there and it does make a difference.

Posted on Jul 29, 2009

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Can I do stippling on my 400xl


This is free motion quilting. There are a ton of web sites and videos available. You'll need a darning or free motion quilting foot for your machine. Drop the feed dogs. If you are certain you want to do free motion quilting, a Supreme Slider helps you move the fabric.
https://www.amazon.com/Supreme-Slider-Motion-Machine-Quilting/dp/B007XGITA2

Learn How to Free Motion Quilt Stippling

How to Free Motion Quilt on Regular Sewing Machine

Free Motion Quilting for Beginners 10 Tips

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Mar 07, 2017 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Janome 1600P DBX


You need to drop the feed dogs, install a darning or free motion quilting foot (make sure the presser foot is lowered). Because you will not be using the machine to move the fabric, the stitch length selection is of no importance. Make sure the stitch width is set to zero. You should test FMQ on a scrap quilt sandwich of the same makeup of your project, ie quilt fabric with batting sandwiched between. The upper tension should be set so that both threads meet in the middle of the quilt sandwich. Because it is FMQ, some extra adjustment may be needed.

Once the tension is where you want it, you can practice FMQ until you can move it smoothly in conjunction with the machine speed.

Practicing on a white board with erasable markers is a handy way to learn to move smoothly. The most difficult part of free motion quilting is learning to move the fabric smoothly. Do NOT lack for practice as that is the only way to improve. Those people who make it look simple have been doing it for years!

How to Free Motion Quilt on Regular Sewing Machine

Free Motion Quilting for Beginners Part 1 Video from Sewing with Nancy

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Learn How to Free Motion Quilt Stippling

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Oct 31, 2016 | Janome Sewing Machines

1 Answer

While trying to free motion quilt on my juki TL-98Q, it becomes very hard to move the quilt whenever I come to a seam. I have already turned the pressure foot dial to the lightest setting. I simply


I have never used a machine to free motion quilt. That said, I have had issues sewing over thick seams. Since your machine runs smoothly otherwise... I think it is the thickness of the seamed area that is causing your problem. It may be too late but you could try trimming your seams so the layers fabric graduate to full thickness. Or you could use a chop stick or popcicle stick to press down on the thickness as you guide the machine over the seam. I also suggest that you Fan your seam allowances where your blocks come together. You can see how that is done here. http://www.allpeoplequilt.com/videos/v/62207505/machine-minute-bulky-intersections-fanning-seam-allowances.htm

Mar 19, 2014 | Juki TL-98Q

1 Answer

When free motion quilting I get loops on top of the fabric and on the bottom when doing tight curves. I also get thread "puke" - tangles and snarls on the bottom when going through the quilt...


Check the height of the quilt under the machine-adjust the bars until the quilt is just barely over the bed of the machine, and level front to back and side to side. Also, level up the frame, using a long carpenter's level. You'd be surprised how much this can help with all sorts of thread problems.

Feb 23, 2011 | Juki TL-98Q

1 Answer

Thread breaks when free motion quilting...what tension should I be at?


Firsrt, try going slower, especially on curves. The Juki is so danged fast, it's easy to run faster than the thread can handle. As far as tension, the best approach is to experiment with a scrap quilt "sandwich" until you find the best tension settings. Also, could your problem be with the thread you're using? Different threads call for tension adjustments. Try using a bigger needle-smaller needles can "cut" the thread, as can defective needles, especialy on curves with free motion. Tension issues are, without a doubt, the biggest problem I've had, but patience and experimentation will usually solve whatever is going on.

Jan 16, 2011 | Juki TL-98Q

1 Answer

I am having problems with my Juki TL98E skipping stitches when I free-motion quilt. I have cleaned it well, put in a new needle but still having problems. When I stitch forward, it's ok, but when I try to...


It is a timing issue. I have a TL98E. The needle bends a bit when free motion quilting, moving the needle away from the hook, thus missing the thread. Try to put in a larger needle, or have the timing changed so that the hook "kisses" the size needle that you want to use. Tammy

Nov 18, 2010 | Juki TL-98Q

1 Answer

I am trying to sew in free motion, but the bobbin is not feeding problem and I have loose stitches and drag. I have adjusted tensions but this does not seem to improve the problem.


Turn your machine off, then turn it on again to re-set everything back to "normal". Now, go into the SET menu (second page, I think) and turn on Q-Sensor Foot and Free Motion. Go back to the Menu and choose the V Menu, Stitch 1. Lower your feed dogs (personally, I don't do this but all instructions always say to do it). Make sure your upper thread and your bobbin thread are a similar thickness i.e. don't use a 35wt top thread and regular sewing thread in the bobbin - it will be too hard to get a balanced stitch with this combination. Use a new sharp needle that has an eye big enough for your chosen thread. When you load the bobbin, be sure to feel and hear the thread "click" into the tension slot. Use one of the free motion feet - my favourite is the spring loaded metal horseshoe shaped one, but there are several and they will all work. (If you are not using the spring loaded nor the Q foot, go back and turn Q Sensor Foot off in the Set menu.) Make sure ALL the weight of your quilt is supported on your table - any tiny bit hanging over the edge will create drag and make it much harder for you to free motion quilt. Most free motion instructions say to lay your hands on the quilt and glide it around. That has never worked for me. I grab the quilt either side of the bit under the needle and steer it that way. So long as the quilt is well basted, it won't cause puckering. Now, the hardest bit - relax! Remember you are only ever quilting a pot holder - the 6" or so square bit that is actually under the needle. Do that little pot holder and move the quilt and your hands on to the next bit. Sure you may come back to an unfinished bit in order to complete your design, but you are only ever focussing on that small area at the needle. Try to watch where you are going, not where you are presently sewing. Believe me, it works!
If you are still having tension issues, you may need to adjust either the top or the bobbin tension. Do this in small increments only and make a note of where you started from. I try not to alter my bobbin because it has been set by my technician at the best place for regular sewing and embroidery, therefore I have a spare bobbin case that I can fiddle with to my heart's content. If you are going to do a lot of FM quilting this is a very worthwhile investment. Most recently I quilted with King Tut 40wt in the top, Signature 40wt in the bobbin. I had my machine set as above, the bobbin tension was a LITTLE lighter than "normal" and it sewed perfectly. You also need the needle down turned on. Good luck!

Sep 22, 2010 | Husqvarna Designer I

1 Answer

Can't free motion quilt on Juki-T98QE


You need to be using a free motion foot or a darning foot, the regular presser foot is not for free motion.

May 29, 2010 | Juki TL-98Q

1 Answer

Tension


Several things to try, I have this set up and after six months I'm still trying to get some issues resolved.  First make sure the machine is treaded correctly, the Juki doesn't thread like most machines, make sure you have the bobbin going the correct way.  After the machine then it has to be in the frame which means that the fabric is most likely to tight, this is a common problem, if you are bending the bars then it is too tight.  Also, look at how the quilt is in relationship to the frame, is it level?  As you quilt and roll, you will need to adjust the frame up, the quilted part should not drag on the machine and the to be quilted part should not be below the machine.  It is a critical that the frame and the machine be even with each other, if not the machine will try to pull and won't sew correctly.  Also, another tip, after each quilt change your needle, the reason is that free motion is technically bending the needle.  Hope all this helps.  

Sep 09, 2008 | Juki TL-98Q

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