When I try to pull, it only comes out a couple of inches. I unscrewed all the screws & looked inside & the rope is intact & looks fine, and I can pull the rope all the way out while I have it apart, but when I put it back like it was, the can't pull on rope, its stuck again? I'm not sure what I'm supposed to be looking for inside? I'm just a girl..... Is something broke inside? Should I just go buy a new one?
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hello sir, ryobi trimmers and other models removal of the bell housing,removal of the metal bell housing,or clutch drum, on models 780R & 790R, here is what you do. after removing the trimmer & shaft assembly.remove the spark plug insert a screwdriver in the cylinder to keep piston from moveing. to remove the bell housing twist off the spring and using a T20 TORX screwdriver unscrew the retaining screw in the center of the bell housing (normal r/h thread) . push down firmely try not to strip screw head . you should be able to remove clutch housing.remove clutch using a pair of channel locks,works for me, (normal r/h thread) you should be able to remove front engine cover to repair what you need to.coil,pull stsrt, hope this works,. this solution applies to all trimmers with clutch removal~~~hope this helps,,any comments welcome,thank you. ``
hello sir, ryobi trimmers and other models removal of the bell housing,removal of the metal bell housing,or clutch drum, on models 780R & 790R, here is what you do. after removing the trimmer & shaft assembly.remove the spark plug insert a screwdriver in the cylinder to keep piston from moveing. to remove the bell housing twist off the spring and using a T20 TORX screwdriver unscrew the retaining screw in the center of the bell housing (normal r/h thread) . push down firmely try not to strip screw head . you should be able to remove clutch housing.remove clutch using a pair of channel locks,works for me, (normal r/h thread) you should be able to remove front engine cover to repair what you need to.coil,pull stsrt, hope this works,. this solution applies to all trimmers with clutch removal~~~hope this helps,,any comments welcome,thank you. 11
The pull cord problem probably is not related to the runnability issue of the Homelite trimmer. It most likely needs the carburetor cleaned and a new gasket and diaphragm kit installed to restore it. It may also need a few small adjustments of the Low and High speed mixtures screws. A lot of different things can cause these machines to function poorly...too many to list. By process of elimination and proper diagnosis of each function is the only way to tell...even if it means disassembling the complete engine. M ost times though, the problem you are having is a fuel supply problem. You are forcing the engine to run "rich" when any choke is applied to it at all, as choke cuts out air intake, but not fuel.
The pull cord issue is another animal and can only be fixed by some disassembly. I will give you the instructions on how to do this, but the course of action you take is your own choice.
Remove the tube that holds the flex-drive shaft from the front of the motor cover. Remove the throttle cable from the carburetor. Mark and unplug any wires for the on/off switch if possible. Now if you have pulled the driveshaft tube out of the way, the clutch drum is up next. Inside it, screwed into the very end of the engine's crankshaft is a Torx #20 screw. Before you loosen it, ou will have to lock up the engine. Remove the spark plug. Pull on the starter until the piston is down, then insert a length of clean, soft rope into the engine. The engine will come up and compress the rope, thus locking it in place to allow clutch drum and clutch removal. Loosen the T-20 screw inside the drum.. It probably won't come completely out...it is made this way. Next, remove the clutch. It is screwed onto a small threaded section of the crankshaft Removal is counterclockwise.. It will be pretty tight. To help, apply peneterating oil. Whack the ears of the clutch near the center with a dull flat-blade chisel and hammer unless there are bolts. then use wrench. It will turn counterclockwise for removal and there will probably be a removal direction arrow on it's face. After getting that off, remove the Torx screws holding the cover to the engine. The starter unit should be mounted inside as it mates with the bottom of the flywheel to start the motor. Remember to preload tension (5-7 turns) on the starter unit. Make sure the handle is installed. Jam the unit with a screwdriver or something so you can insert and tie off the new rope. Then remove jam device and let recoil pull your new rope into place. Reassemble and you are done. Disassembly requires Torx head drivers ranging from T-15 to T-25
Turn the Homelite chainsaw so that the bar and chain are laying flat and the starter cover is facing up. Loosen the four starter cover screws by unscrewing them counterclockwise with the screwdriver.
Take the starter cover off of the engine. Turn the starter cover over to work on the pull starter. Pull the rope out about 6 to 8 inches.
Twist a loop into the end of the rope. Insert the intersection of the two ropes into the notch on the upper flange of the pulley. Rotate the loop back and forth until you notice the recoil spring has disengaged. Unwind the rope from the pulley. Cut off any old rope if you need to replace it with a new rope.
Unscrew the screw holding the pulley to the starter cover using the screwdriver. Take the pulley off the starter cover. Turn the pulley over and remove the recoil spring cassette from inside the pulley.
Inspect the spring inside the cassette to see if it is damaged or overstretched. Replace the recoil spring cassette if it is broken. Lubricate the post on the starter cover using about a dime-sized amount of engine grease.
Put the recoil spring cassette back into the pulley. Set the pulley onto the starter cover and tighten the screw down with the screwdriver. Wind the starter rope back around the pulley in a clockwise direction.
Leave about 6 to 8 inches of rope unwound. Form another loop at the end and insert the loop into the notch on the pulley. Rotate the loop back and forth until you notice the tension is set on the recoil spring.
Remove the loop and place the starter cover back over the engine. Pull the rope out 6 inches and tighten the starter cover's screws using the screwdriver. Release the rope and it should automatically retract
On the back of the dryer near the top you will see a metal cover, usually just above where the cord comes out.
Unscrew any screws in this cover, usually only 1 1/4 inch or 5/16 inch screw that may also have a phillips or common screw head.
Once this cover is removed observe the cord going to the back of your dryer. There will either be 3 wires connected to 3 posts or 3 wires connected to 3 posts and one wire connected to the cabinet.
Remove the wire connected to the cabinet first.
Next unscrew the 3 screws holding the plug onto the terminal. Depending on how the end of your cord is made you may be able to just loosen these and pull the cord down or have to remove them completely. Do not drop these in the dryer!
Now just replace the cord with the new one and refasten the screws. Make sure they are extremely tight where the cord connects to the terminal block.
If you have a 3 prong cord with 3 wires the middle wire must go to the middle terminal and the other 2 can go on either side.
If you have a 4 wire cord the white wire will go to the center terminal, the black wire will go on either the left or right post and the red wire will go on the left or right post. One wire per post!
The last green wire will attach directly to the back of the dryer, usually with a 5/16 screw. This is just your ground wire.
Homelite/Ryobi.com (authorized parts supplier) https://www.gardnerinc.com/recons/disclaimer-lg.php - Agree; Choose “Product Line”; “Select OEM” & “Select Catalog” both to “Homelite Consumer Products”. A drop down list appears; self explanatory from here. The numbers Homelite & Ryobi use do not match the numbers everyone posts. A careful inspection of your saw should find something that matches.
with the cover in your hand pull the cord out with a pair of needle nose pliers or a little screw driver and where the cord go through the case and before the wheel. pull 5 to 10 inches out and wrap the cord around the wheel turning the wheel but not winding the cord on., do 3 or 4 wraps then pull the handle to get all the cord out and let it retract. if not enough rewind just repeat with 2 wraps
One suggestion, unscrew the spark plug and reconnect the high voltage wire. In a very dark area move the plug so that the plug thread touches some metal on the engine. Pull the starter cord. If you don't see a spark, remove the two screws on the handle and see if two wires are attached to the Stop Engine Switch. Remove one wire and bend it away from metal and try to see spark when pulling the start cord. If spark occurs, the Switch is shorted and needs replacing.