Had Service technicians out 7 times to house over last 6 months. Have had motor, coil and controller card(2x) and fuse replaced(6x). This thing is a joke. Home line voltage is 125V which my electric company says is within spec(+/- 10% from 120VAC). Appliance Tech said controller board is only rated for 127VAC. Not sure that is the problem(or if he is even correct), will look into electrical grounding issue as well. My old dishwashed never had any problem like this for 7 years, it was loud so we bought the Kitchenaid, which cannot run without blowing fuses.
Take this from a 4 board and 9 fuse owner.I believe the ceramic thermal fuse does not blow quick enough and during voltage spikes,or under a load cause overheating of the control board.All my boards had burnt marks on the back of the board(apposite where the 4 prong plug goes).I purchased a new board ,new ceramic fuse with the wire.They say the wire must be replaced too.(Ebay under Whilpool dishwasher fuse 14.00) Next on Ebay I purchased a 15 amp marine push button circuit breaker which I mounted in the side of the front panel.Split the one leg going to the ceramic fuse,run it to one of the legs of the breaker and run the other side of the breaker leg back to the ceramic fuse.I know someone out there is saying you don't need the ceramic fuse if you have the breaker in the line.Humor me.Lets say you get a large surge that fries the breaker closed as in a lightning storm.The ceramic fuse may save the day.Since I have set ours up this way the breaker trips once in a blue moon.Reset it and your off and running again.Oh and don't bother calling Whilpool(makers of Kitchenaid) You can't get anywhere with them.Now if for some unfortunate reason this doesn't solve your problem,don't throw away that dishwasher.Remove the upper and lower baskets,bolt them to the trunk of your car and the next time you go to the car wash bring your dishes with you.LOL
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coils, it has just one coil pack. with 3 coils integrated.
its not COPs.
there are many DTCs related, and not posted.
did you try new spark plugs, then new wires. and then only last the coil pack? check compression.
is it failing the same cylinder? (the will fail in pairs, if the pack is bad)
the pack runs 2 cylinders at once (in series)
injectors leaking or clogged.
since you didnt show the symptoms, i cant help much.
1 month or 1 year?, or how many miles?
time, heat,vibration, oil contamination. (pressure washing them)
not using the dielectric grease on the boots.
getting water in the wells over and over, causing flash over , and carbon tracking.
what make you think they are bad.???
my guess, is you see P03xx codes and assume the means bad coil.?
post scan data, and DTCs.
I understand you are having trouble with your Frigidaire electric dryer. Without knowing the specific model number there are still some troubleshooting tips I can recommend. Make sure the dryer is plugged into the outlet, and plugged in correctly. Check to see if the house fuse is blown or circuit breaker tripped. If so, replace fuse or re-set circuit breaker. If your house uses fuses, there are two house fuses that supply voltage to the dryer circuit in your fuse box. If one of the two fuses is blown, the dryer may turn but will not heat. Check and replace fuse in fuse box if necessary. If the house has circuit breakers, there may be two breakers with switches that supply voltage to the dryer. Circuit requirements are individual 30 amp. branch circuit fused with 30 amp. time delay fuses or circuit breakers. Your dryer requires a power supply of 240 volts to operate. Make sure that the electrical circuit is not overloaded and correct. The dryer must be on a circuit by itself. Overloaded circuits can damage the dryer and possibly cause damage to home. If needed have a Licensed Electrician check to make sure it is on a circuit by itself.
Lastly, the thermal limiter could have tripped or there is an internal problem with the dryer. A thermal limiter automatically turns off the motor (electric dryers only) in the unlikely event of an overheated situation. If this is the case I would recommend contacting an authorized service for repair as this is not a typical DIY project. Contacting an authorized technician can ensure no troubleshooting step has been missed. Parts are often costly and if the problem is precisely diagnosed, it can save you a lot of time and funds.
You can use the link below if you need assistance in locating an authorized technician in your area. I hope this information proves helpful for you.
mechanical engineer is not the same as a motor vehicle technician ,and in all honesty i only wish i had done mechanical engineering instead of motor vehicle technology as the certificates i passed with distinction are only worth hangiing in the toilet ,anyway no spark ? well these cars do suffer from the wiring insulation drying out with age in a dry hot climate so check for current to the coil pack if coil pack has power then check the crank sensor for wiring problems and also check the sensor with a automotive multimeter or even a ordenary meter for a pulse ,you husband should know how to do this .
I have had terrible problems. I have 109,000 miles on it and last month the transmission went, the alternator also went and when it did it sent an electric shock through my car that fried all of my lights, sensors, event the motor in the door. The shock fried my radio and now my air doesn't work.
Mazda kept it for 3 weeks telling me they did not have a loaner car for me and wanted me to pay $50 a day to rent a car. They were terribly slow.
Underhood fuse block swap out relay #7 thats the ECM relay. Ground Circuits Using a DVOM, touch negative voltmeter lead to a good ground. Touch positive voltmeter lead to each ground terminal. With vehicle running, voltmeter should indicate less than one volt. If reading is greater than one volt, check for open, corrosion and loose connection on ground lead. See ECM GROUND LOCATION table for ECM ground location. Page 1 of 1 SYSTEM/COMPONENT TESTS - 2.6L EFI -1994 Isuzu Rodeo
Either the motor is fried or the belt is burnt. If you can't hear it turn on, then check for any fuses that could have blown. They will be glass tube type. If fuse is good, motor or power supply could be bad. You can test them with voltmeter.
When you say these are dead, is the voice coil open? If so, the easiest way to fry a coil is to send it high frequencies that it can not reproduce or to send it a distorted signal. If you know anyone with a scope, scope the output when you have it running. Normally the low end will be a relatively smooth curve. If the curve is made up of a really jagged line, you may be passing harmonics through the amp that can heat up the coil causing it to fry. Check the output of the amp with a volt meter. When cranked up you should get no DC voltage at all. If there is DC, that too will do nothing but heat up the coil.