Question about GE DVLR223 Dryers

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Dryer Drum bearing designs

I have a GE DVL223 Dryer. I needed to take it partially apart to retrieve something interfering with the drum. I noticed the drum bearing facing the door was composed Teflon strips (drum) and some sort of mating foam polymer (door case)

This seems kinda cheap. When I shop for a new dryer, I was wondering if there were other companies/models with a better design?

What are current design options for drum bearings (what are the different drum bearing scenarios used in dryers today)?

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  • GE Master
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These drum glides look cheap,but they last for a long time

Posted on Jul 29, 2009

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If your dryer is the kind with rotating drums, might be a bearing. You should disassemble it and check if can be replaced
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When my GE electric dryer is on, its making a loud squeaking noise. The drum is not off kilter.


Possibly one of the following : Could be a seized drum bearing, at rear of drum. It will get worse if you keep using the dryer, and eventually cause permanent damage to the drum. Or it could be something like a button or hair-clip is stuck between the front edge of the drum, and the normal rubbing surface at the front of the dryer. In both cases, you need to remove the drum to remove whatever is stuck in there, or to replace the rear drum bearing also. Hope this helps!

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There is a bearing at the back middle of drum, and the socket in which it rides. (made of plastic].
Often when the exhaust is clogged or not venting properly it causes the plastic to melt wearing out the bearing.
There is a bearing kit with the complete beareing and socket but you will need to basically take the whole machine apart to rteplace these parts.

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Sounds like something became wedged against the drum. Maybe a bearing?

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Hi, The drum does come out from the front and while I can't provide pictures of how, I would suggest going to "youtube" and doing a search on GE dryer repair. Either that or you could go to a parts depot web page such as "repairclinic.com" and type in your model for a search, that should yield you an illustration of the dryer broken down into individual part diagrams. I didn't have any luck in looking up the number you provided. To answer the second part of the question, yes there is a bearing assembly on the rear of the drum consisting of a drum shaft, hub and teflon bearing. The front of the drum rides on "drum glides" instead of rollers. The GE brand in particular have been almost identical for over 40yrs. With only slight changes and that's only in material, the basic design has not changed much. Hope this amswer's your question and help's move you forward in your dryer repair. Thanks for visiting "fixya" today and let me know if I can assist you further. Good luck, macmarkus :)

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Dryer is squeaking while in operation


Rear drum bearing may need lubrication or replacement. This bearing is located on the back of the drum and requires taking the washer housing apart to get to it. They sell a high temperature lubricant if that is all that is needed, but a small bit of automotive grease or bearing oil will work well. You may have to buy bearing replacement parts ie a drum rear bearing and post kit or a bearing replacement kit. You will need better than average skills to do this yourself. As soon as you take off the front panel the drum will have no support and will drop forward. Try not to let the drum belt to become to loose or the belt retention wheel may become disengaged and the belt will fall off. Make sure you unplug the dryer before taking ANYTHING apart.

Jan 14, 2010 | GE Dryers

1 Answer

Ge dryer squeeking


HI,

For a pictorial troubleshooting please open the link:

http://www.applianceaid.com/my_own_dryer.html

You will be looking at the front glides that the drum rides on, the glides are probably gone and the drum is rubbing on the plastic glide holder....if it is damaged will need to replace the front drum bearing/glide holder and all of the glides, usually about 4 of them.

If it is the drum front glides the noise will be from the front area, right behind the front panel at the top. If the noise is from the center rear of the dryer your drum bearing is gone, need to replace this also if you have to take this dryer apart..

Thanks

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1 Answer

Noisy Dryer Drum - Squealing/Grinding type Noise.


okay this is a stack unit, what you have is a rear bearing problem, This will also cause your tub to lean. it is located in the back, to make your unit right go ahead and buy the rear bearing, it will come with a white coupler, bearing and you will need to lubricate it....

also for a couple of more dollars order you the front seal, this is the white felt that surrounds the door...

1. top felt
2. bottom felt.


thanks

Apr 02, 2008 | Dryers

1 Answer

Squeeking noise


Here's a possible troubleshooting fix I just sent to someone else that quite possibly has the same problem you have there now.

Hope it helps you out as well, as it is a bit long, but I'll post the whole reply I sent them and you can use whatever parts of it that will work for you.

Hi,

My name is Frank...

Regarding your possibly broken dryer.

I'm hoping that this info below helps you out even though I know I won't be able to repair/fix your dryer myself personally. Reason why - I'll explain further down.

I've repaired a few gas dryers & washing machines as well in my time. I can honestly say that I'm as close to being an expert as they come - esp when it comes to making repairs on existing dryer parts that can no longer be purchased as they are either obsolete, or way over-priced.

This is what I do for a semi-retired hobby, and sideline self-employed FIX-IT business. Named appropriately - FRANK'S FIX-IT SHOP. It's only an online fix it at present. Keeps me busy instead of being bored to death.

Electric clothes dryers are typically made the same as gas dryers - as to the mechanical drum part. Only thing different in a gas unit is the 110VAC electrical igniter or element, and the gas delivery system that provides the drying heat to the dryer itself.

All else is basically the same...

In an electric clothes dryer all the power comes from the 220VAC source as to the heating element, etc. The mechanical parts are typically the same as that of a gas dryer.

Having said this - the problem with your dryer can only have one of possibly 2 things wrong with it - seeings it's no doubt 220VAC totally electric, unless you actually have gas where you are there, which is rare in Florida these days!

If after you start the drying cycle you quickly open the dryer door, and you notice the drum is actually rotating - until there is the loss of electric power via a safety door switch that kills electric power to the drum motor activity - then there is NOT a problem with a broken drum belt.

If your dryer is older then say 10-15 years, and you really use it alot - then maybe there's a possibility of a broken drum belt (cost is around $10-15 for a new belt part depending on model - usually - and that does not include labor to install it).

Usually you'll hear the motor whining, but no drum 'noise' or movement. Dead giveaway as to a broken belt.

I had replaced 2 belts and 1 IDLER wheel on my own 30+ year old gas Kenmore dryer before selling it, and then picked up a more recent newer model GE washer & gas dryer that someone was just giving away for free. My 30+ year old Kenmore washer had just died on me at the same time is why I upgraded. Can't pass up a great freebie deal like that everyday! Never had to fix anything on my Kenmore washer during the time I owned it - it was GREAT!! I miss it dearly now.....

Though they were both newer GE models I really don't care for GE anything, as I think they are poorly built, as well as is their refrigerator brands as well.

Don't buy GE anything if you don't have to!! You heard it here from me and I know. My GE washer already broke a belt not even being 8-9 years old, and it was hell to replace, and never worked right afterwords as for the water pump part. Very POOR design! Oh well...

The gas dryer works fine, but the lint collector is not anywhere as good as my old Kenmore was. Poor design in my opinion.

I'm looking for another Kenmore or Whirlpool (set) model now, as they are the best. Kenmores are made by Whirlpool btw, just in case you didn't know that. The best in the business!

As to your other possible noise scenario -

The only other weird noise scenario you'll experience if it's a Kenmore dryer is when the drum "spring loaded track IDLER wheel" goes bad. This drum IDLER wheel is located under the drum itself at the back part of the drum and rides in a groove in the drum itself. It also helps to stabilize and counter-balance the drive belt-loaded turning drum that rides on this drum IDLER wheel as it turns. If your dryer does have the rear drum IDLER wheel system, then it just depends on the make and model. Kenmores & Whirlpools are designed this way. Very good design I might add!!

Some, or all GE dryer models may have a rear drum centering bearing assy instead - and in addition to - a front (Support, 3 glide front drum bearing part# 2359 & a Drum front slide bearing part# 2305 times 3 needed). If this/these front support/slide bearing part(s) goes bad usually the "felt duct" will need to be replaced as well. It not only helps to seal and quiet the drum that runs on the Support part, but it also helps to keep clothes from getting in-between the Support C part and helps prevent clothes from getting damaged. If those (3) friction sliders wear out or fall out, and take out or damage the "felt duct" as well, then the noise will be horrendously LOUD.

The front part of the GE drum models usually rides on a separate front panel support assy which can be made of a plastic C shaped device with anti-friction pad strips to help in frictionless rotation of the drum. A cheap but pretty effective design that does away with a front IDLER wheel, or pair of IDLER wheels as it were at the front of the dryer's frame which houses the door assy as well.

Though my Kenmore replacement drum IDLER wheel only cost me around $17 many years ago I see they now are anywhere in the $30+ range. Ouch! If it's the GE rear bearing assy that has gone bad - another Ouch as that part runs around $50+. Just depends on where you are and parts availability.

Most Kenmore/Whirlpool model dryers with the rear spring loaded drum IDLER wheel design do not have a ball bearing design, but rather have a typical cheaper brass bushing design instead, and when the grease lubricant dries out or they become dirty from picking up dirt in the air such as lint from the drum, etc then they begin to SQUEAL or WHINE very loudly.

The longer this goes on like this the hotter the drum IDLER track wheel gets until it melts the "typically" molded plastic housing, and then it really makes a lot of noise, and could actually lend to the drum belt breaking - as due from the added friction & stress from the binding wheel. It can also damage the front "felt duct" material as well. I had to repair mine as best I could as they had n factory replacement part that I knew off.

The only other mechanical parts that could possibly make any squealing type noise would be the electric belt drive motor or the heat blower motor being gas or electric. If the heat blower motor uses a cheaper brass sleeve shaft bushing bearing that would be rare, but could be a noise source as well. The belt drive motor rarely rarely would ever go bad!!

I hope this info helps to narrow down your problem if you are not able to at least open the top up to inspect the dryer yourself. Always unplug the 110VAC power before opening any cover or panel part up though!

That will not only prevent any electrical shock hazard, but will also keep the gas from turning on by mistake - as by solenoid design - if your dryer is gas.

I suspect this is what's wrong with your dryer.

Again - I hope the info helps you out...

Best regards,

Frank

Feb 09, 2008 | GE DBXR463GB Gas Dryer

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