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Make sure that power is reaching the motor after going thru the thermostat.
If juice is there replace the starting capacitor. If the motor gets hot but still does not run the rotor might be frozen - check with ammeter for abnormal current draw.
If compressor is frozen all you can do is replace unit.
Pull the fridge out from the wall and check to make sure it is plugged in.
Unplug the fridge and plug in a spare appliance to see if the outlet is working. Check the circuit breaker to the house see If the outlet is not working to see if there are any fuses that are flipped.Inspect the electrical cord for the refrigerator for damage, such as from a mouse or pet chewing on it.
Open the fridge to see if the light turns on. The power to the unit is fine if the light turns on, which means something else is the cause of the starting issue.
Turn up the thermostat on the inside of the fridge if it is set to a low setting. Turn it all the way up and listen for the condenser motor to start. Have the unit serviced by a professional if it does not May be internal problem with component
I had a similar situation happen to my GE Stove. I tested the incoming wires and found power on both. I couldn't find anything wrong either.. What I did find though was that the Circuit breaker itself had "half died", meaning that only one pole of the dual circuit breaker was working. I tried resetting it over and over only to find that it was completely fried. I went to the hardware store and got a new circuit breaker. I first looked for any loose wires on the elements and the burners of the stove that could have provided a ground fault, and after finding none, I installed the new breaker and flipped it on after plugging the oven back into the wall. Voila! everything worked fine! Installing a new breaker can be scary at first. you may want to consult a professional to check the breaker for you. Or if you are comfortable doing it yourself, then go for it. At least you'll know if the breaker is good or not. Once I had the breaker off of the circuit panel I checked it for continuity with a voltmeter and found only one side working. The panel I have allows you to just "pull" the breaker straight off of the panel. Some are screwed in, some are popped in, it just depends on the manufacturer. So, based on my experience, that is what I would do. Perhaps it's the wall outlet, but I doubt it. If you want to check that, use a voltmeter to check each incoming wire for proper voltage. Some symptoms I had with my oven were the panel would be on and would "click" like it was turning on the oven, but nothing would happen. Or the Burners would work, but only heat up halfway. The Broiler wouldn't even come on at all. Let us know how it goes!
Hi rigbyrr - The Power Freezer light indicates that the freezer is
properly connected to electrical power. Is there power to the unit? The light
glows even when the temperature control is turned to OFF. Let's try
reprogramming the freezer by either unplugging it or flipping the household
circuit breaker to the off position. It is important to wait approximately ten
minutes and then turn the unit back. If the issue persists, check to ensure
that the appliance temperature control is in the ON position and that the plug
is not loose and tightly pushed into electrical outlet. If everything is properly set then in this regard, I would suggest
contacting an Authorized Service Technician that will be able to assist you in
the diagnosis of your unit.
I have a Hoshizaki KM-250BAF that is making 3 beeps then pauses and them makes 3 beeps again. If I unplug the ice maker and plug it in it continues to make the 3 beeps. The manual does not mention anything about beeps. Can anyone help?
FIRST TURN THE TEMP CONTRAL ALL THE WAY OFF.LISTEN FOR A CLICK AND TURN TO HALF WAY SETTING IF IT CLICK IT'S ALLRIGHT, NEVER TO COLDEST,NEXT PLUG A RADIO IN THE PLUG TO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE POWER,DOES YOUR FREEZER HAVE A LIGHT ON FRONT TO TELL IF POWER IS ON?ALSO CHECK BREAKER BOX,THANKS-MIKE