SOURCE: Problem mowing my lawn.
I had the same problem and I already found those recommended solutions\ causes on the web:
1. The
motor isn't on full throttle.
2. The blade is upside down.
3. The grass is
too high when cutting it.
4. Overlap your cuts.
It helped my problem/ I hope it will help yours too!
SOURCE: craftsman 42" riding lawn mower blade free spinning but wont cut
It sounds to me that you need a new mower deck drive belt, or your blades need sharpening. If the blade edges are rounded, they won't cut butter... Also, when mower is off, check mower deck drive pulleys to make sure you don't have any that are locked up or are dragging. You can check this by pulling the belt away from pulley and spinning the pulley by hand. MOWER MUST BE OFF before attempting any of these checks. You would be surprised how many people would try this with the mower running.
Hope this helps
SOURCE: I have a Grasshopper zero turn mower that uses
yes just reguler hydralic oil it wont hurt a thing. but dont use atf its for transmissions in vehicles
SOURCE: I have a yard-man 6.75 hp,190cc self-propelled
This is how to clean the fuel passages in the carb for a honda type OHV engine.
Here is what you need to do:
1. Fuel selector off
2. Remove float bowl mounting screws and nut
3. Remove the BRASS Jet / Orifice in the very bottom of the venturi tube inside the pickup tube. (Flat blade screwdriver) Hold the Orifice up to the light. You should see a pinhole. If it is not clear clean the orifice but do not force anything through the hole.
4. Underneath the Orifice there is yet another BRASS tube that you need to remove. (Flat blade screwdriver) Make sure all of the holes in the tube are clear. The tube will be over 2 inches long. Clean it and reinstall it.
5. Reinstall the Orifice.
6. Using a catch fuel container turn on the fuel selector. Fuel should flow at a good rate. GENTLY lift the float assy level and make sure fuel flow shuts off. When you drop the float again fuel should flow.
If you do not have fuel flow at this point the needle and seat will need to be inspected. Fuel selector OFF.
(The following procedure is to be done only if there is no fuel flow with fuel selector on.)
a. Remove the silver float pivot pin retaining screw
b. Drop the Float down (The needle will come off with the float. NOTE the position)
c. Inspect the tapered rubber of the needle If should be pointed. If it is not pointed then the rubber tip is stuck inside the seat.
d. Clean the seat hole ONLY if obstructed. (Easily damaged)
e. FUEL Selector on then off fuel should rapidly flow through the needle seat.
f. Renistall Float and needle making sure to get the pivot / hinge pin installed correctly and reinstall the silver retaining screw.
g. Fuel selector ON. Raise and lower float checking for free movement and fuel flow.
7. If there still is no fuel flow at this point remove the fuel hose from the carb and check fuel flow. If no flow check that gas tank exit hole, fuel filter (if installed) and the selector valve assy for obstructions. Reassemble connections.
FUEL FLOW IS GOOD
8. BEFORE you install the float bowl inspect the bowl nut. There are 2 holes in the side of the nut where it screws in to the bottom of the carb that must be clear.
9. Install Float bowl mounting screws and nut. Check for leaks.
10. Test engine.
That should do it. (carb cleaning 101)
Thanks for using FixYa.
Kelly
If the above does NOT apply to your engine then please respond with the engine type model number off of the air shroud just above the spark plug. ALL of the type model numbers will be needed. Also in some cases the serial number.
SOURCE: RE: Lawn mower blades will not engage
This sounds like a faulty ground condition, the PTO clutch requires a ground provided by the chassis wiring harness to function and a ground for the ignition switch to kill fire to the coils. The other components work as they should because the voltage regulator, fuel shutoff solenoid and starting interlock system have their own grounds. The ignition switch in these mowers is a large round plastic switch not capable of grounding itself, it should have a black wire leading from the terminal marked "G" on the backside of the switch.
to diagnose a faulty ground you'll need a basic 12V test lamp:
Unplug the switch and and install a the test light clip on the positive terminal of the battery, probe the ground wire in the unplugged harness that corresponds with the "G" terminal only. If the ground is good the lamp in the test light will illuminate brightly, if poor or faulty the lamp will not light or be noticeably dim.
Further verification of a faulty ground or failed PTO switch can be tested at the PTO Clutch harness, turn the key on, engine NOT running, and pull the PTO Switch to the engage position, with the test light clipped onto the Negative Battery terminal or chassis, back probe the connected PTO clutch terminals. If the PTO switch is good and the ground is good then Only one terminal will illuminate the lamp, if both wires illuminate the lamp then the ground is faulty, if no lamp illumination then a loss of power is suspected, check the terminals on the PTO switch and Ignition switch for power.
Typical Ground termination locations are on the frame near the rear of the tractor frame, above the transmission, in the steering column area and near the solenoid, check for a loose or corroded eyelet terminal, broken wire, or a missing fastener in these areas.
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I have changed the fuel filter and both air filters.
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