Chemtrol250 pool chemical controller green lights won't come on to signal it's feeding

Defiently need do get the stabilizer and alkalinity levels up. Stabilizer helps keep chlorine in the water from being burned off by the sun. The ph level makes the chlorine more effective and the alkalinity keeps the ph level stable. Get a sample
In to determine also if you have phosphates in the water eating up the chlorine.

It is ruined, the water and chemicals in the pool will have destroyed the electronics.

Check the breaker feeding the pump and make sure that power is reaching the motor. If there is a timer make sure that it is in the "on" position.

Always vacume on waste when you have algea shock at night always

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You need to be able to test at least chlorine, salinity, ph, alkalinity, and stabilizer. The best way is using test strips. If you have a sample of water tested at a pool supply store that will work too but frequent transportation is more costly than strips. The salinity should be about 3000 ppm, Chlorine should be between 2 and 4 ppm, alkalinity should be between and 80 and 140 ppm and the stabilizer should be between 30 and 50 ppm. Some say up to 100 ppm. Unfortunately higher stabilizer reduces the chlorine's ability to kill algae, etc. When the water becomes cloudy it is likely low on chlorine and is about to turn green. If the test shows low chlorine level then I would add shock to 10 ppm chlorine. If the filter system is working correctly then it should clear up fairly soon. I would not let anyone swim until the chlorine is between 2 and 4 ppm and you can clearly see the pool bottom.


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Well what your describing should have nothing to do with whether it's salt or not. What your describing is a bad algae problem. Only so much can be done without actually seeing the pool. Depending on how well you are maintaining your chemicals, and what chemicals you are putting in the pool lots of things can happen. The blue green that wipes right off sounds like algae. The black can also be algae, or if the PH has been too low in the past, then metals can dissolve into the water, and when PH goes high, then metals come out of solution and leave black or brown staining. High calcium also leaves white, tan or brown staining depending on the chemistry of the water. removing stains from vinyl pools can be difficult to impossible depending on the situation. If your maintenance guy can't answer these questions I'd seriously consider changing companies, or getting a second opinion at least.

Super CL your pool ... take it to 20 PPM and let the pump run ... brush your pool with a nylon pool brush.

You may have a chlorinator cell that needs cleaning. I usually use muriatic acid diluted 4 to1. Find something you can submerge the cell in and be careful of the acid. If this doesn't help then there is probably something wrong with the cell or the control box.

Happy pool management.

The brown-green gunk sounds like algae. You stated that you have cleaned the filter. Have you taken the cartridge completely out? If not, I would suggest that you do so. Scrub the inside of the filter tank with a 4:1 bleach water mixture, only 1 part bleach. Then soak the cartridge in an acid bath, like Muriatic Acid. This will kill any algae that is in the filter itself.

You may need to vaccuum your pool to waste, get rid of some of the water and refill it. This may help get the chemicals in order.

Another idea would be to run the system continuously for a couple of days. Vaccuum to waste, not to return lines, and clean the filter when it reaches 8 to 10 PSI above start-up. You may not be running the pump long enough to properly filter water. Keep trying to get chemicals in order.

add chlorine to the water in the pool you might try a pool supply store for information reguardind ph of your pool and how to mix chemicals