Our house has baseboard heaters that are 32 years old. In the last year we started getting alot less heat. Do these wear out after time or could it be a wiring problem. An electrician said it was hooked up correctly. Are new heaters more efficient than 30 years ago? These are standard 220 heaters, i.e. no oil, liquid, fan, etc.
first of all, have the thermostacts been checked,if not they will need to be checked,mainly dust can get into them.
if they have heating elements,ckeck to see if they are all in tact and have no dust on them.if this does not work then you will need new heating elements,which you might not get any more,if this is the case then im sorry to say that new heaters will be needed. i hope this helps and good luck.
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is that switch reading 0 ohms?, if it is, the triac has failed on the circuit board, if it is open then replace the switch. you can order a new circuit board from the manufacturer. of course you've checked to see that 240 volts is getting to the heater.
I bought 3 convection heater ( model 052-2026 ) .Two of them stop to heat after 2 years using . The third, stop to heat last december. Canadian Tire ( store where I bougt the product ) told me to contact Garrison Company . Now , I want to get refund. Michel L?ger Quebec, Canada
I have base board heaters in each room and each with a thermostat and hooked to a controller. The controllers activate the heat in the base board heaters. I believe this is how it works. When you activate the thermostat, it sends a message to the controller that sends a message to the base board for heat. The controllers are Singers. Prbkem 2:. When I turn down the thermostat (to off), I still get heat in the base board heaters. WHY. I was going to get rid off the controllers and thermostats and buy new base board heaters at Home Depot. The thermostats are on the base board heaters. Will this work.
Not unless it leaks oil on the floor. The oil has nothing to do with heating, your unit is actually an electric heater with oil added as "thermal ballast."
The first suspect is the plug that you plug into the wall. These sometimes overheat and electrical continuity is lost.
Solution: new plug from the hardware store. Cut off the old one and take it with you so you can get something very similar. Don't do anything if you're not comfortable with handyman-level electrical repairs.
Next suspect is the cord itself. These have a hard life on electric heaters.
After that you're inside the unit. First suspect is the thermostat, since it's the only moving part. A burned out heating element, or a burned wire connection, is possible, but not the first thing to look for.
Generally, this kind of heater often lasts for years and years--and often doesn't. Once you're past replacing the plug it's not unlikely that repair will cost more than a new heater.
I'm not shilling for Home Ripoff, but they have a $60 "baseboard" (type) heater with remote control that I'm looking at, I've read good reviews about it. However look closely, it's very long, and sticks out from the baseboard more than you might expect.
It sounds to me that the motors on the units in question, may need a few drops of oil on the bearings. I have seen motors in these heaters and most do have a place to oil them, they wouldn't have sealed bearings as the newer motors.Check the blower wheels also for dirt build up on the blades, as this will cause them to be out of balance and cause some noise also. Sincerely, shastalaker7
A 23 year old unit will be a major energy hog.You will see a massive improvement even with a less efficient unit,but go with the energy efficiency.The price of fuel is going to keep going up,and you will be using the furnace for many years.I'm in Ohio,and we get by just fine on electric for the very rare occasion the temperature drops below the level where the heat pump cant keep up.If this really worries you,you can put a couple space heaters back for emergency.Of course your talking about a gas unit,or a dual fuel unit.The dual fuel would be your best bet of course for ultimate fuel efficiency,but they can be pricey for the ones with all the bells,and whistles.Some will even use the fuel that is less expensive at any given time throughout the day.For example in some circumstances electricity is more expensive during the day then at night.Ultimately you have to figure out how much energy you use on average to heat your house.If you know the efficiency of the unit you have now you can estimate the actual output energy that is actually needed to heat/cool your house.Which would be the effective output of the old unit.Figure out how much less energy input you will need with a more efficient unit to get the same average output as the old unit.Subtract the energy usage for the new unit from the average energy use from the last winter.This will be your approximate energy savings.This should give you some Idea of the energy savings.
The biggest wasters of electrical energy are Heat and A/c, water heaters,dryers and ranges. The more you insulate the less you have to cool or heat. If you live in a warm climate, consider installing an attic fan that runs on a thermostat or timer. During the summer allow it to run, during winter turn it off. Ceiling fans in rooms that are occupied create the illusion of being cooler, allowing the thermostat to be turned up.I'm not sure of the exact numbers but any thermostat setting on your a/c below 78 is more inefficient so try kicking the a/c up and the heat down. I'm a Florida boy so I can't tell you much about baseboard heaters. I know that anything that heats things up cost a lot in energy.
Consider installing a hot water heater timer. Commonly called a "Little Grey Box". Whenever your water heater is not actually being used it is still heating the water. A big waster. Once installed set the timer to cycle the water heater off during times when you commonly don't use it. Overnight,when your at work etc....
Somewhat antiquated, but a clothesline always uses 100% less energy than a clothes dryer. :) Short of this, try to fill the dryer all the way and make sure your dryer vent and lint trap are clear.
Microwaves draw 1/3 the energy of a range and run for 1/10 of the time. Microwave as many things as you can. In our house we have started microwaving canned veggies and boxed side dishes and such.
These are the big ones I've done at my house. A lot of the other things seemed to be more work than they are worth. Some actually end up costing you more if you don't own the house for decades.
There are many sites you can visit such as your local power company and possibly your local government pages.
Good luck. I'm in the same boat with the high power bill.