Samsung front load washer leaking water at bottom "only" during the final spin cycle. Does not leak during normal wash/rinse cycle. Any ideas?

SOURCE: GE Front Load Washer

Removing the lower front panel (3 screws nearest floor), and opening the round, white water pump filter cap (be ready to catch about 2 gallons of water!) is the best place to start. All you need is a Phillips head screwdriver and a large, flat pan (deep turkey tray works well)!

YOU WILL NOT BELIEVE what I found in my filter housing this morning (see photo below)!



The washer is working fine now, although I may go back and remove the entire water pump so it can be dismantled, thoroughly cleaned, and reinstalled.

SOURCE: water leaking from bottom of front lode washing machine

It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time

During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak. 


Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak. 



During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 


All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician. 


Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it. 


Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

SOURCE: Leak during rinse and final spin

Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

• Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
  
  
• The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
  
  
• Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
  
  

• Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
  
  
• Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
  
  
• Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
  
  
• Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
  

SOURCE: water leaks during final spin cycle only

Hi,
The first thing to do is get the machine up off the floor onto a base that allows you to slide under machine on your back with a flash light. Make sure whatever you decide to lift machine up onto is very stable and durable. Bricks, blocks, or a utility cart maybe. You need to look under machine to see where the leak is coming from. You want to make sure it is not going to fall on you. The machine is not that heavy, just awkward to lift or move because of it's size. So, you could slide something under each corner, one at a time, or ask a friend to help lift it onto a base. Now you are ready to go. Don't worry, this is really easy.
Get a towel, flashlight, and start machine on a small load with shortest cycle set.(probably delicate). After you start machine, slide under and and try to find where water is leaking from. The pump is going to be a plastic circular shape thing with ridges on outside. Probably dead front center and attached to motor. If water is leaking anywhere from plastic circle thing, then this is your problem. BUT, also follow all the black hoses that are under machine. Sometimes leak can be a cracked hose or loose attachment. That is real cheap and easy. The hoses are attached with metal ring deals. You take a pair of channel locks or big pliers and squeeze them to open. There are 2 or 3 hoses that attach to pump that will need to be removed if this is where leak is coming from. Then, the pump is only attached with metal clips that you pull out to release pump from motor. No tools needed. Take the pump to sears or local appliance shop and I guarantee they will have replacement.
Thank you for contacting Fixya.com

SOURCE: I have a two month old Samsung WF350 front load

I just received my Samsung WD 8804 front loader washing machine, and during the 3rd wash trial, I noticed the same problem of water trickling down from the base of the front door. I took a closer look and the problem is actually due to a cracked rubber seal, which can be seen through the glass door. I have informed the technician.