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Compressor only stays on for 30 seconds which is not long enough to completely cool refrigerator all fans work and coils are dust free

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If unit is coming on for a few seconds and then u hear a click, you may have a bad compressor relay. pull it off the compressor and shake. most times u will hear a rattle of junk. if so its bad.

Posted on Jul 26, 2009

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I have no cold air in my refrigerator or Freezer. It defrosted everything.


Condenser Coils are Dirty
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the condenser coils may be dirty. The condenser is like a radiator and must stay clean in order to dissipate the heat which was removed from the inside of the refrigerator. As the coils get dirtier the refrigerator becomes less efficient, which makes it work harder to cool down. If the coils are dirty enough, the unit will never be cold enough and will not be able to cool the inside of the refrigerator to the proper temperature.
Evaporator Fan Motor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the evaporator fan motor might have failed. Every refrigerator has a set of coils called an evaporator. The refrigerator may have one or more evaporator fan motor(s) depending on the model and evaporator locations. The evaporator fan motor circulates the cold air from the coils thru the compartment. If there is only one evaporator it is in the freezer side. If the fan is not working, no cold air will get to the refrigerator compartment. The freezer may still get cold.
Condenser Fan Motor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough there might be something caught in the condenser fan motor blade, or the condenser fan motor might be defective. The condenser fan motor draws air over the condenser coils to cool them. The condenser fan motor is located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the access panel to access it.
Start Relay
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the start relay may be defective. The start relay is a small device mounted to the side of the compressor. It provides power to the run winding along with the start winding for a split second at start-up to help get the compressor started. If the start relay is defective the compressor may run intermittently or not at all and the refrigerator will not get cold enough. The start relay should be replaced if defective.
Temperature Control Thermostat
If the refrigerator does not get cold enough the temperature control thermostat might be defective. The thermostat allows power to flow through to the compressor, evaporator fan and condenser fan. If the cooling system fans and compressor are running, but the refrigerator or freezer is not cooling correctly check for an airflow or defrost system problem.
Start Capacitor
If the refrigerator isn't cold enough the compressor might be having difficulty starting. The start capacitor serves as a battery to give the compressor a little boost during start-up. If the start capacitor is burned out the compressor might not be able to start and run as often as it should. Test the start capacitor first with a capacitance meter, they don't fail often. If it's defective, replace it.
Thermistor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the thermistor might be defective. The thermistor is a sensor which monitors the air temperature. It is connected to the control board. If the thermistor is defective the refrigerator does not cool or may cool continuously.
Temperature Control Board
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the temperature control board might be defective. The temperature control board provides the voltage to the fan motors and compressor. These boards are often misdiagnosed. Check all other components to be certain this is the cause of the problem.
Compressor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the compressor might be defective. The compressor is a motor which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. There are several other components which are more likely to be defective if the compressor doesn't work. If the compressor itself is defective a licensed professional will need to replace it.
Main Control Board
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check the defrost system, cooling fans, and cooling controls first.

Jun 28, 2017 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

Refrigerator has stopped cooling. fan still running and compressor is warm. what is wrong?


Several things could be wrong. The simplest is that the coils under the refrigerator are dirty with dust and need cleaning; or other parts may not be working properly. Go to the link below for a video that discusses the operation and various components of the refrigerator. Good luck. Kenmore Refrigerator Not Cold Enough

Oct 16, 2014 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

Ge profile 26 pfss6pkx Light comes on but won't get cold, no fan running


It doesn't cool
  1. Condenser coils
Make sure you dust off the condenser coils to prevent dust build up and overheating due to it overworking. Simply unplug and use a long coil cleaning brush to get rid of debris.
  1. Check seals
If your refrigerator door seal is broken, warm air is pushing its way inside the unit, thus causing it to not cool properly. Prevent this from happening by replacing your seal and keeping the cool air inside.
  1. Temperature controls
Ensure that your thermostat is set correctly, usually 38-40 degrees Fahrenheit.
  1. Defective condenser fan
When this fan is defective, cold air is prevented from flowing through the vents. It may require replacement.
  1. Compressor issues
Check if there are clicking sounds coming from the compressor as it tries to start. If there is a clicking, it is one of only two options, either the start capacitor or a bad compressor. A start capacitor is fairly inexpensive whereas a sealed system repair on the compressor is very expensive and often not cost effective. Refrigerator Repair Help Troubleshooting and Parts

Aug 15, 2014 | GE Profile PFSS6SMXSS 26 French Door...

1 Answer

Would dust cause my refrigerator not to cool


In a way, yes. Under the refrigerator is a condenser coil. Now, yes this coil collects dust. The more dust the less air can flow over this coil and that coil has hot gas flowing through it. Now this coil has to be cooled buy a fan. So, if it has too much dust, not enough cool air can pass over the coil, coil gets hotter and hotter. That causes the gas pressure to climb and the compressor will now get too hot. This will cause it to shut off due to a safety feature built into the compressor for just that reason, (to safe the compressor, your fridge, and your home from fire). Then the fridge gets warm inside, food thaws out. Yes, dust can cause this. It is very, very, common during the heat of summer, not so noticeable in the colder months. Hope this helps FixYa up.

Aug 16, 2011 | Maytag MZD2766GES Side by Side...

1 Answer

My Samsung RS2630SH fridge and freezer are not staying cold. The condenser fan is running, I blew and vacuumed all dust off of the coils. If I unplug it for a few minutes then plug it back in the...


Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

Jul 09, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

9-10 year old Frigidaire Gallery FRS26ZSH refrigerator stopped cooling as only the fan was running and not the compressor. Cleaned the lower coil and fan of a small amount of dust. The unit worked for 1-2...


might be your compressor relay gone bad. if the condenser fan was running and no compressor that could be the case. Also could be a bad compressor. you could try installing a 3in1 start kit. cost about $30. if doesn't start with that then compressor is kaput.

Jun 27, 2010 | Frigidaire Gallery Series GLHS269ZDB 36"...

3 Answers

Kenmore 596.73502201 Not cooling. Compressor , fan, seal ok


If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

  • Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”


  • Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.


Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

  • The compressor


  • The Thermostat


  • The overload, relay, or capacitor


  • The defrost timer


  • The condenser fan motor


Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem 

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. 

Dec 19, 2008 | Kenmore Refrigerators

2 Answers

Freezer and fridge not real cold no ice


It's not cool If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

  • Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”

  • Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.

Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

  • The compressor

  • The Thermostat

  • The overload, relay, or capacitor

  • The defrost timer

  • The condenser fan motor

Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

if this helps vote me a fix ya

Jul 18, 2008 | Kenmore Refrigerators

2 Answers

Frigidaire stand alone Refrigerator won't cool Fans and Compressor work


when you removed the back panel inside refrig was there any sign of cooling, perhaps only top 1 pass of the coil was frosted, or completly warm no signd of frost at all?

Feb 17, 2008 | Kenmore 73502 / 73504 / 73509 Bottom...

5 Answers

Runs but doesn't cool


Verify the compressor is running first and the fan close to it. Check for dust dirt in the condenser coils underneath. Clean as necessary. Feel of the compressor CAREFUL if its HOT to the touch and hasn't been cooling listen to it for the 10 to 20 minutes your talking about. If its precisely 15 minutes on then off and the fan motor under by the compressor starts and stops at the same time your controller (thermostat or sensor/board assy.) is not sending power on to the compressor - replace as necessary. If your fans keeps running under neath the compressor is not working correctly. here is what to do to check it.

The fan staying on underneath is the tattle tell. If its not running something else is turning off and on the compressor (they run together normally) and fan motor look to the controller.
If the fan stays on it means (usually) the compressor should be running also. So the controllers are at least telling it to run. If the fan isn't up to speed or the coil is blocked with dust and lint/dirt this can cause (in some setups) both fan and compressor to overload from heat.

Assuming you have voltage to the compressor and the coils are clean and the fan motor under is working up to par, The compressor or its start components are at fault. Here is what to look for:

Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} Getting to this step: Either your compressor is broken inside or the start components are not working properly. Ohm the compressor terminals to ground and across to each other.

If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad.
Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.
Assuming the above checks out: Get a new Start relay (start capacitor if so equipped) relay and overload (and capacitor if it has one) In other words everything that is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the compressor, and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration.
.
A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to 12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat. And about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The other 1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely from a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.

30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed.
Please rate me as high as you can and ask me to clarify anything you don’t understand.

Jan 18, 2006 | Hoover HCA331FFK

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