Question about GE JGRP17 Gas Single Oven

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Oven does not light.

Turn oven on and the ignightor doesn't even glow. Broiler works, so does the stove top.

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The easiest way to check the ignitor is to observe it. Remove the small access panel in front, select a high temperature setting and start the dryer. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow or spark. If you see it glow or spark, then the ignitor is working. If the ignitor did not appear to function and it is the spark type, it may be out of adjustment which generally requires professional service or it may require replacement. If the ignitor is the glow type, you can test it for resistance with a multimeter.


The ignitor has two wires connected to it.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading anywhere between 50 and 600 ohms. If you get a reading of zero or infinity, the ignitor is definitely bad and will need to be replaced.

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

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You gave us good clues in information!-- Thanks!

Most modern gas ovens have a device called a Glow Ignitor to light the burner.
If this ignitor has filed, it will NOT left the gas valve open-- (Good thing, right? :-) )

You say the broiler lights fine-- so let's observe something when the Broiler lights:
Do you see a bright glow near the Broiler burner?
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Well, you should see a similar bright glowing near the BOTTOM rear of your oven, for the main burner to light off-- If you do NOT see this glowing-- then you need a new ignitor-

You can remove the bottom burner cover, and dig deeper into the repair if you like-
But a new ignitor needs to be exactly like the failed one-- the safety circuit is very fussy about the exact same ignitor-- or it will not allow lighting-- even with a new 'generic' installed.

How deep do you want to go into this repair?-- Maybe it is time to call the service people into do the job?-- You can tell them that you think the ignitor needs replacing-- and approx. what will they charge you for the service call and the ignitor?

I hope this helped.

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