Question about Carrier Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

I have a carrier thermostat xccuidoi-b. I need to replace it, but not at the high cost. Can I replace it with cheaper one that is not programmable?

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  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 21, 2017

    The correct model number is Carrier SYSTXCCUIDO1-B. It is in the Infinity series.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 21, 2017

    I do see that this is communicating tstat. Now I will need model numbers for both the indoor and outdoor units. I believe you can convert this back to the legacy/24 volt/ standard connections but I need more info. Yes, these new communicating system components are a bit pricey.

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 21, 2017

    The condensing unit is model # 24ana736a0030020. The coil fan model # fe4anf003000

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 21, 2017

    It is designed to run as a communicating system. It does say in emergency situations it will run legacy. All I see is that you won't get diagnostics through the tstat. But, who cares... If you are handy this is something that you can do on your own and you can even test if it's going to work without going and getting the tstat. Is the unit not working right now because you have a bad tstat?? Is this something you would like to try?? It's a fairly complicated thing to type, fairly easy to do. I will help you through it if you are wanting to proceed.

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 21, 2017

    The tstat is working. The temperature display is not accurate. Yes, I would like to try to replace it with legacy. Do you know the cost of legacy? Thanks for your help.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 21, 2017

    There should be a way to calibrate the tstat. It can be calibrated up or down by 3 to 5 degrees. How far off is the temp? You can get a new tstat for $30. You will just have to change the wiring on the inside and outside unit. And of course at the tstat. Also, remove tstat and tell me what color wires you have on a,b,c,d please.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 21, 2017

    Legacy is just a term used for 24volt wiring rather than communicating. You can buy any tstat you want, they range from about $30 to $600.

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 21, 2017

    The actual temperature in the room is fairly accurate as measured from a separate thermometer. The temperature "display" jumps around from 75 to 56 to 71 etc.
    a= green, b=yellow, c=white, d=red

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 21, 2017

    Ok. Sounds like a bad tstat. I'm going to type this out. I'm also available on 6ya once you have everything opened up and are ready or if you have any questions.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 21, 2017

    Let me know if you got that. I'm not seeing it in our discussion.

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 21, 2017

    Yes, I received that. Sorry had to leave for awhile.

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 21, 2017

    You mentioned that you were going to type this out. I assume that you meant you were going to type the procedure for me to follow. I did not receive that.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 21, 2017

    Lol. I figured. It was long. I'll do it again.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 21, 2017

    Turn the power off to both indoor and outdoor units at breaker panel. At the outdoor unit connect yellow to y1. Connect green to y2. Connect white to C. Not the C it is on now (you're doing away with abcd) , the C that is close to y1 and y2. The red wire unhook and either wrap around other wires or cap with wire nut. No longer using red outside. This is 1 of 3 pages

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 21, 2017

    At the indoor unit locate the condenser wire. There should be 2 tstat wires, the condenser wire is likely the wire that is taped up with the copper lineset. WITH THE CONDENSER wire connect white to C. Again not the C it is on now, the C with the r,g,w,y. Connect BOTH YELLOW and green to the y terminal. Again you are not using the red wire that comes from the condenser. With the other tstat wire, the wire going to the thermostat connect red to R, white to W, green to G and yellow to Y. Yes, you will have 3 wires in the y terminal.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 21, 2017

    At the tstat remove all wires. Wire nut the red green and yellow. Leave the white separate and be sure it's not touching anything. Red is power green is the blower yellow is the compressor and white is for heating. We are only testing the condenser right now. This is bypassing a tstat just to see if a standard tstat will work. Turn the power back on to both indoor and outdoor units. You may have a 2 minute wait but.both indoor and outdoor units should come on and you should be getting cold air.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 21, 2017

    If both machines run than a standard 24 volt tstat will work. With wiring like this you will either have to turn the power back off when it gets too cold or unhook wires at the tstat. I recommend powering off so you don't blow the fuse on the indoor board. It will remain this way until you install a new tstat. Always turn power off to indoor unit when messing with tstat wires inside. As I said I am on 6ya which is live chat. I can walk you through it in person and see what you are seeing if need be. Keep me posted !!

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 21, 2017

    Thanks, I got all 3 pages. It seems very complicated, but I'll try it in the morning when I have more time. Will you be available tomorrow?

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 21, 2017

    I guess it seems easy for me because I do it everyday. Much harder to type for me than to actually do. I'm a service tech in naples florida and am doing house calls all day long. I do keep my 6ya availability on all day but obviously if im with a customer i wont answer. I check fixya periodically so ill get to ya one way or another.

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 21, 2017

    That's very nice of you Thomas. I'll be in touch tomorrow.

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 22, 2017

    In preparation I'm trying to understand your direction.
    On page 1 you say "At the outdoor unit connect yellow to y1". Is yellow connected to something else? I assume that it is. So I need to run a new wire from yellow to y1? Or do I disconnect yellow from a terminal and then connect it to y1?
    Maybe I'll understand it better when I see it. I appreciate your help.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 22, 2017

    You currently have green at A, yellow at B, white at C and red at D. This is the same at all three places. You are not running any new wires, use existing wires just moving to a different place on the two circuit boards at indoor and outdoor unit.

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 22, 2017

    So I need to unsolder the yellow wire from a terminal and solder it on the terminal that has y1?

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 22, 2017

    No soldering. You likely need a precision screwdriver, similar to those for eyeglasses. Possibly some small blue or orange wire nuts, a 5/16 nut runner, and some wire cutters/ strippers.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 22, 2017

    We making progress out there??

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 22, 2017

    I've had other issues to resolve, so I have not done anything today.
    I noticed that you haven't mentioned anything about the heating system. I assume that it can take a legacy tstat without any changes.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 23, 2017

    Long day. I'm on call as well... The heat is the white wire. If cooling works heat will work as well. If you wanted to you could do red, white and green. This would bring the heat on but not the condenser. You can test both ways if you choose. Remember red, green and yellow for cooling .

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 23, 2017

    I'm anxious to look at the wiring in all three locations. That will tell me if I can do what you suggest. Unfortunately, I may not be able to do that for a couple three days. Please keep in touch.

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 23, 2017

    I got a chance today to look at the terminals in the condenser as well as the indoor one. I see what you mean. You are basically moving wires from one terminal to another terminal. But, it can get messy on the indoor unit.
    It's going to be quite a job to make these changes, but I think I can do it. How confident are you that these changes will do the trick?

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 24, 2017

    99%. I typed info last night about the air handler. I was concerned if you had a float switch. I was wondering if in the air handler if all your colors matched or if you had an odd wire (black or yellow) landing at one of the A,B,C,OR D'S. No biggie, just one more step. A float switch shuts the unit down if the drain backs up, it is something you want to wire back in if you have one. Let me know.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 24, 2017

    Take pics of both units the way it is now. If it doesn't work you can easily but it back and know that you will need a compatible communicating tstat. I'm confident it will work but you never know.

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 24, 2017

    You said that you typed info last night about the air handler. I didn't get that.
    I do have a float switch.
    Does the air handler have separate terminals or are they the ones in the "indoor unit"?

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 24, 2017

    The air handler is the indoor unit, sorry. It was about the float switch. NOTE, your float switch has two wires, when you rewire the indoor unit put one of the float switch wires to the R terminal. The other wire from the float switch will get wire nutted to the red wire going to the tstat. So, instead of the red wire landing on R, it will go to one side of the float switch and the other side of the float switch will land on the R terminal.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 24, 2017

    Remember, red is power. We want the power going to the tstat to first go through the float switch. This way if the drain backs up, it trips the float switch, killing power to the tstat.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 24, 2017

    3 easy steps ;)

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 24, 2017

    I have an automatic condensate pump, but I don't think I have a float switch.
    As far as I can tell, there are only 2 red,2 green, 2 yellow and 2 white wires on the abcd terminal.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 24, 2017

    Ok. That pump has a built in float switch. Disregard all the float switch stuff.

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 24, 2017

    Another side comment. Currently the fan speed is half speed, and if its not cooling enough, the fan goes to full speed. Most of the time the fan speed is half, and that is nice because it is quiet.
    Will your plan use the half speed or full speed. Can we pick half speed easily?

  • Andy May 24, 2017

    Fan speed has nothing to do with thermostat wiring ,if works on demand

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 24, 2017

    The answer is no. By doing what we are doing you will be losing your staging of first and second stage. Machine will run in hi stage at all times. Unfortunately by converting to non communicating you will lose those features.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 24, 2017

    The research I have done on your machine shows me that you only have one Y terminal on the indoor board. If you would, please verify that. I would be looking for a Y1 and a Y2 just like you have on the outdoor board.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 24, 2017

    Also please verify the number of conductors on the tstat wire going to the thermostat. I know you have 4 (a,b,c,d) are there any extra wires on that same thermostat wire that ARE NOT being used??

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 25, 2017

    On the indoor board there is a Y terminal only, not Y1 and Y2.
    On the thermostat wire there is a blue wire that is not being used.

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 25, 2017

    Can you recommend a legacy thermostat that I should buy to replace the one I have now?

  • Andy May 25, 2017

    That's fine so that means you have only 1 stage of cooling which should have the yellow wire ,blue wire should not connect to anything

  • Andy May 25, 2017

    Any tstat should work .
    Just tell me what wire you have on your old tstat right now .
    Normally you should have R,Y,W,G and maybe a B ,if it is battery operated you don't need the black

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 25, 2017

    As Andy said, any tstat will work. If you're doing it yourself you are saving lots of money, just depends on how much you want to spend. Honeywell is a proven name but I've seen them break down just as fast as a White Rodgers. Yes, the Y only confirms you will have only 1 stage, no slower speed. With that extra blue wire from Tstat, you can hook that into c on the indoor board( along with the white from condTatar, and then wire the blue to the c on your new tstat and your Tstat will not require batteries. This I recommend AND some tstats require the common anyways.

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 25, 2017

    What is condTatar?
    Hook up the blue on c on the indoor board? Not C?

  • Andy May 25, 2017

    Let me make this wiring very simple,look at your indoor unit ,there will be a control board with thermostat wires hook up to it most of the time at the bottom. It should label R,RC,Y, W and C.
    Take a picture of the wire color that's hook up to their terminal for example red hook up to R ,white hook up to W and so forth.
    Now hook the exact color on your thermostat.
    Now when you got that hook up your thermostat should have 5 wires .
    Now thermostat is done ,now go to your outdoor unit and open the cover you should see 2 thermostat wire which is wire nut to 2 wire and are connected to the contactor.
    The contactor is the black thing you will see as soon as you open up the cover .
    Those 2 wire is connected at the side of the contactor .
    Now see what color are those wire .
    If it's a yellow and blue then that should hook up on your indoor unit control board on Y and common or C.
    So on your control board you should have 2 wire on Y and C

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 25, 2017

    Andy, thanks for trying to simplify this process, but what you're saying seems to be contradictory to Toms procedures. Is this a different way of getting the job done? That is, replacing the programmable tstat with a legacy one.

  • Andy May 25, 2017

    Well there is not a lot of different way of wiring a thermostat. You can only have more wires BUT you thermostat wiring MUST be exactly the same as it is on your indoor unit

  • Andy May 25, 2017

    If you like just send me a picture of the indoor unit control board and I will tell you step by step on how to wire your thermostat today

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 25, 2017

    I'll do that, but first here is a couple of comments. There is no RC terminal. Also the tstat has 4 wires, not 5.
    How do I send you a photo?

  • Andy May 25, 2017

    That's fine .R and RC is the same .What other 4 on the thermostat. Is it R,W,Y,G .If that's the 4 then that's fine also .That only means your thermostat will run on battery.
    Now tell me what's on the control board on the indoor unit

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 25, 2017

    How do I send you a picture?

  • Andy May 25, 2017

    You don't have to just tell me what you see on the indoor unit control board thermostat wiring.
    I want to know what color wire is on all terminal

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 25, 2017

    With the "extra blue wire that is in with the wire that goes to the tstat,land that blue on c. Not the C that is with A,B,C,D , the c that is next to the r,g,w,y. The same c where the white from the condenser wire is now getting landed.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 25, 2017

    INDOOR BOARD You should have the wire from the Tatar landing as follows. Red to R, Green to G, White to W, Yellow to Y and Blue to C. REMEMBER ,you are no longer using the A,B,C,D terminals. With the wire from the condenser you should have BOTH Yellow and Green landing on Y (along with the yellow from tstat) and the White landing on C (along with the blue from tstat) CAP ANY LEFTOVER WIRES.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 25, 2017

    OUTDOOR BOARD you will have yellow to y1, Green to y2 and white to c. AGAIN, not using A,B,C,D.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 25, 2017

    Did you get a tstat yet?

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 25, 2017

    That is a concise way of describing the changes.
    No, I have not had a chance to go to Loews.

  • Andy May 25, 2017

    Why trying to figure out how to wire tstat and you don't even have it as yet .
    You know we are trying to help using our precious time

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 25, 2017

    Lol. Just read it. Tatar is the tstat. Concise is what you need.

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 25, 2017

    Out of curiosity, is Andy's plan the same as Tom's? They appear very different to me.
    I appreciate your time. I know that it is precious.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 25, 2017

    Yes, Andy is suggesting the same thing. The difference is Andy is not using a common. Also Andy doesn't realize that you currently have a communicating unit with a communicating tstat.

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 26, 2017

    I bought a Honeywell programmable tstat for $25.00. I assume that should work with our revised system.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 26, 2017

    Yes it will. Now, you tell me how you're hooking up the tstat?? ;)

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 26, 2017

    The new tstat has BOGYWRRsubC. I will hook up the usual 4--GYWR. Will hooking up the blue wire
    to B take care of the power? The instructions say that the B terminal is for a heat pump.

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 26, 2017

    The instructions don't say anything about avoiding using batteries. While some of the more expensive models said on the cover that you could avoid using batteries.

  • Andy May 26, 2017

    Yes just leave Boston blank check your indoor unit and whatever color is on the C terminal that the same color wire you should put on C on thermostat

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 26, 2017

    There is no C on the tstat .

  • Andy May 26, 2017

    Then that thermostat runs on batteries

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 26, 2017

    Ok. Just don't hook the blue up on the indoor board and install the batteries.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 27, 2017

    Send me the model of the tstat and I'll help u set that up as well.

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 27, 2017

    Honeywell RTH2300B

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 27, 2017

    All you have to worry about is switching the switch on the back of tstat to HE. That's electric heat.

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 27, 2017

    I have oil heat.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 28, 2017

    Yes, but that means your tstat controls the fan.

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 28, 2017

    Doesn't the tstat also control the burner, and the condenser/

  • Andy May 28, 2017

    Thermostat control everything

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 29, 2017

    In re-reading your comments re the tstat switch (electric heat vs oil heat), are you saying that I should switch it to electric heat even though I have oil heat?
    The red wire at the tstat is the source of 28 v. Since I will need batteries, do we need the 28 v. ?

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 29, 2017

    Yes you need the 28 and honestly I'm not 100 % sure about the switch. It's as simple as flipping the switch so you can leave it on gas if the fan still works leave it.

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 29, 2017

    Please bear with me. I'm going to list the wiring changes based on your info to make sure that I have the correct changes. Of particular concern is the red wire.
    INDOOR:
    1. Tstat cable--
    a) Move G from a to G on adjacent terminal
    b) Move Y from b to Y etc
    c) Move W from c to W etc
    d) Move R from d to R etc
    2. Condenser cable--
    a) Move G from a to Y on adjacent terminal
    b) Move Y from b to Y etc
    c) Move W from c to C etc
    d) Move R from d to a cap

    OUTDOOR:
    Condenser cable--
    a) Move G from a to Y2 on adjacent terminal
    b) Move Y from b to Y1 etc
    c) Move W from c to C etc
    d) Move R from d to a cap

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 29, 2017

    You got it!

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 30, 2017

    Before I make the wiring changes discussed, I'd like to ask for a second time if there is any possibility of making changes to allow the AC fan to run at low speed all the time.

  • Andy May 30, 2017

    Yes you can but that has nothing to do with the thermostat. You can do it at the control board on the indoor unit

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn May 30, 2017

    Im going to say no. You can call me on fixya and do the video chat when you are at the air handler with the blower door off and board in site and I can look at it that way if you'd like.

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 30, 2017

    How do I call you on fixya?

  • Andy May 31, 2017

    If you look at your control board top right you will see 2 terminal saying heat ,cool .Now that's where your fan speed is hooked up to .Normally cool will be hook up to high and heat hook up to medium.
    If motor is 3 speed you will see a extra wire that is not hooked up that should be your low speed.Look at wiring diagram on your unit and locate the blower motor and follow the wiring and you should be able to figure it out

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin May 31, 2017

    Just to make sure that you know that my thermostat communicates with the fan as well as the condenser. I'm told that the fan speed, when the condenser just goes on, is at low speed. Then if that speed cannot handle cooling quickly, then a higher speed is used. Is this consistent with your comments above?

  • Robert boivin
    Robert boivin Jun 03, 2017

    I want to thank Thomas Woodburn very, very much for his help in identifying how I can replace my complicated and expensive thermostat with a standard one. I'm sure that Tom had to spend a lot of time in researching what had to be done. Kudos to you Tom.

  • Thomas Woodburn
    Thomas Woodburn Jun 03, 2017

    Well, I take it you were successful ?!? I appreciate your appreciation, you are welcome.

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Not finding that model number. How many wires and where are they landed inside tstat?

Posted on May 21, 2017

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Yes you can

Posted on May 22, 2017

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