I haave tried all of the rests the MFG recommends, I have vacuumed and blown out the lines from both directions, nothing is stuck and there is no water left in the sump or the lines that I can see. What eles can I do?
SOURCE: New water ace sump pump will run but willnot shut off
The higher you pump the water, the stronger your pump needs to be, or the skinnier your hose needs to be. A lower discharge point and / or a smaller diameter hose might help immensely.
SOURCE: Bryston 4b amp, left channel blows the back panel
I would check out whatever drives the left channel first. If it is a transistor, you can put a ohm meter on the terminals and see if it shows a short (amp turned off). If there are two transistors for the left channel, and you find a short on one only, replace the other to be on the safe side.
SOURCE: 2H displayed and pump runs nothing else happens
I, along with many others online, are experiencing the same problem. The bottom line is the control panel needs to be replaced. Beware, though, that the replacement panel may also be bad as I've seen many reports that they are poorly designed and Bosch isn't doing anything about it.
There are 2 things I'd like to clarify...
1) The display "2H" is an error code which, according to Bosch, indicates service is needed on the unit. The code is different from "2h" (note the lower-case letter h), which is what would display when the delay start button is pushed.
2) The number 1 showing at the "end" of the cycle does NOT mean 1 minute left. It is a 2nd error code indicating the unit has "timed out."
I'm waiting to have my control panel replaced a second time. The first repairman from Sears replaced the control panel with a refurbished one, but the unit still showed 2H. He was about to leave when I told him the problem wasn't fixed. He tried to tell me that the 2H meant the cycle would be longer than 2 hours because my water temperature was too low (it is at 120 degrees, the proper temp per Bosch). He said I needed to increase my water temp or else live with the fact that the dishwasher would take a long time to run through the cycle. I asked him to call Bosch and he said they wouldn't talk to him (he really had an attitude). I asked for a receipt (on which he commented the "dw works fine") and, after he left, I called Sears back to get a "senior" technician out to fix it. They ordered another (new) control panel for me and they'll be out this Friday to (try) to repare the unit. Hoping this time it will work.
SOURCE: 97 Lumina...Switch stuck on defrost vent and
I had same problem . There is a vacuum resovoir tank located behind the left front splash shield . The vacuum line behind the battery goes to it . I removed two 5/32 screws just in front of the tire that hold the splash shield to the fender , carefully flex the shield away from the fender and take a look . I found the vacuum line had come loose , plugged it back on and everything works . Hope this helps
SOURCE: My sump pump wont kick
Hello, the pump motor is controlled by the float switch. If your motor is running constantly even when you move the float switch around, then I would say that either the switch is shorted internally, or the wires going to the switch are shorted, thusly causing the motor to run. Is the float on a separate adapter to the pump, or is it wired into the pump?
joe
Hello,
Welcome to fixya.
Based on your description and trusting it is indeed an Asko 1796, I'd suspect you have a door switch "accuator" sticking ( control pin as identified by Asko. pin part #80 575 42, switch part # 80 554 73 ).
This has been a random occurrence with Asko dishwasher's since they went to this design around 1994 or so. If the dishwasher doesn't stop when you open the door as you stated, here's a possible remedy you can try on your own.
Make sure the unit is off first. **Turn the breaker off at your home service panel before attempting any service suggested here on 'fixya"...safety first"
This procedure I'm going to suggest can be done easiest and more accurately by removing the control panel for better access as well as to visually inspect other component.
It can also be done without removing the panels by identifying the small round "pin" in the the door latch channel ( where the latch goes into the door when closed )...i.e.
...with the aid of a small screwdriver, tooth-pick, ear swab etc. add some vasiline or grease to the top of the pin working it in via pushing the pin up & down...I recommend removing the panels though.
To do this... Open the door and along the top you'll see "T20" torx head screws. Remove just the screws for the console/control panel, you must also be careful as the edges of these panels are sharp ( auto-mechanics protective gloves are good for this ).
Once off you can see the micro-switch and the small "pin" I was referring to earlier much easier.
Tilt the entire panel towards you slightly, just enough to work with ( careful not to undo any wires, or take pictures as you go ).
Apply some grease or silicone lube to the shaft of the pin/accuator and work it in really thoroughly. I find it easier to remove the plastic cover & micro-switch out of it`s bractket to allow a little room to work
i.e.
...careful not to let the plastic pin fall out. Where I pointed my finger in the image below is where to apply the lubricant.
Re-attach the control panel and you can test it before itstalling all the screws.
Let me know if you require further assistance.
Thanks for coming to fixya, please take a moment to rate the help you received. Good luck.
Regards,
Macmarkus :)
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